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jacob80

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Posts posted by jacob80

    Leaking oil pan...very irritated

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Jacob,

     

    I read your post and thought I rote it...currently having the same issue after building my 3.1 and installing one of those super duper MSA gasket and taking special care to clean and straightening out the bolt holes on the pan.

     

    The only difference is, my leak is coming from the rear and dripping off the gear box on the passenger side (could it be the rear seal???).

     

    EXACTLY my same problem. I, too was worried that it was the rear seal but I poked a q-tip up in the transmission hole where it would drain and didn't seem to find any oil on the end of it. I know its coming from the pan though because I can see the streaks! Grrr but just to confirm, but a nissan gasket, coat it with RTV, let sit for 24 hours before installing, enure mating surfaces are flat and clean, install and torque to spec, sound about right???

    Leaking oil pan...very irritated

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Alright well if I can, I'm going to drop that oil pan and put on a new gasket with a thin layer of RTV on the oil pan gasket surface and slap it on (a nissan gasket of course). Also, I'm running a silicon hose from the turbo drain to the oil pan and it keeps leaking between the barb fitting off the turbo and the hose. What do you guys use for your drain? Does yours ever leak??

    Leaking oil pan...very irritated

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    First, have you run the engine yet? If so, trying retorquing the bolts. This is recommended after you run the engine for a bit since they are not really torqued tightly.

     

    When attaching the pan, I use a thin smear of Black RTV between the pan and the gasket, not the block and the gasket as its not needed. This has worked every time.

     

     

     

    Front axle? Are you sure you are talking about a Z?

     

    You can change the gasket very easily, at least on a 240z. Drain the oil. Set the engine at TDC. This makes it easier for the pan to clear #1 journal. Jack up the engine just a bit to allow the pan to clear the steering rack. Remember to loosen the engine mounts first.

     

    Remove the bolts holding the oil pan and then remove the oil pan. It's that simple. You may have to wiggle the pan around a bit to get the clearance, but it is doable. I changed the gasket on my old L24 this way.

     

    Really? Its an L28ET though, will that make any difference? I'm worried about clearing the pick up sump is all. Also, where is the point which you are jacking the engine up on??

    Leaking oil pan...very irritated

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    Well we have just rebuilt our L28ET and we were going to try and do the oil pan right so it wouldn't leak and we wouldn't have to worry about it. So we went out and bought the MSA super duper gasket and pounded the mating surface of the oil pan flat from someone previously overtightening. We slapped on the gasket dry and torqued them all to 7 pounds (or whatever it is). With all this done, pretty much know its not going to leak, what do you know, voila: it leaks. VERY irritating knowing we did everything right just to see it leak. What do we do? Obviously I'll have to drop the front axle and change it but what can I do different to have a good seal? I'll probably get the nissan gasket this time, just to be sure. Thanks guys!

    Let the tuning begin....maybe

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    Ok so i've had a base setup on my L28ET but I just corrected all my timing and am starting all over. It runs with the approximate tune on it but obviously thats not going to cut it. Last night, I attempted to tune the idle with no luck. I tried scaling my cranking pulse widths at the different temperatures like the tuning manual inside the megamanual told me, and I also attempted to tune my warm up, after start, and idle but got no where. If someone could help me on my feet it would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Here is my setup:

     

    1973 240z running surge tank setup

    L28ET

    Pallnet fuel rail

    Bosch 42lb 440cc injectors (low impedence)

    Stock intake manifold

    Stock turbo/boost (7psi)

    Front mount intercooler

    Rebuilt long block

    Fidanza flywheel

    Performance products pulley

    280zx alternator

    Greddy Type RS blow off valve

    MSD Blaster 2 coil

    Magnacore wires

    Megasquirt 1 V3 board running MSnS-E

    Stock 83 distributor

    Kameari high pressure oil pump

    Iridium plugs

     

    I think that about completes our setup. I've set all my basic parameters yada yada yada and my Req_Fuel is 7. So if any of you guys could give me a hand to get me on the road I will praise you. Its starting to get cold and I would like to get these floors welded in before winter. Thanks a lot guys.

    An attempt to confirm that our timing is correct

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    First, be sure that the timing in the timing table matches what you measure with a timing light. Play with the required fuel to get it warmed up and idling smooth. Then set the timing bin where the engine is idling to 10 deg. Then use your timing light to check the actual timing. If it is off, then adjust the trim angle so that timing in the timing table matches the actual timing measured with a light.

     

    Then start adjusting fuel bins that you can without driving the car by moving the throttle throughout the load band. You calibrated the TPS, right? If not do that. Then start adjusting the enrichment settings. After that, you need to drive and log, adjust, repeat. Or get it on a dyno.

     

    Pete

     

    So the req fuel won't necessarily be what is calculated by inputting your injectors sizes and all that?

    An attempt to confirm that our timing is correct

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Ok so I finally got my timing sorted out. The lights on the ECU box werent coming on so I just locked down the distributor where the pump pump primed when I turned it. Apparently, it did the trick because it is spot on. Now to tune it, which I am having trouble keeping it running but hopefully I'll be able to figure it out. You guys have any advice on the tuning procedure, mainly establishing a good idle? It seems like if I don't feather on the gas it tries to stay alive then just quits when it feels like it but if I do stay on the gas it'll stay running for a little bit then just stumble and quit because I think I am dumping too much fuel.

    Setting timing on 83 L28ET distributor

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    Well I've done what it seems all I can think of inside megatune to get this silly middle light on my box to come on and it isn't. I turn the distributor back ~50 degrees and when I'm turning I get to a point where the pump pump will prime and before, that is usually when the light comes on but nothing. What do you guys think?

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