jacob80
-
Posts
1035 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by jacob80
-
-
Okay, good to know. Thanks guys!
-
1973 240Z, sorry about that. I didn't know the ZX had a slot for the muffler tip.
-
Well, I'm thinking its a VB921 issue. If you go read my thread, you'll see. Anyways, I do not want to make any body modifications whatsoever, just fit the tip through the cut-out in the rear lower body piece below the taillights.
-
Hey guys,
Well I just put ANOTHER new head gasket on my L28ET which has been rebuild with the stock P90 head but we put the "improved valve stem seals" from Ford. I replaced the head gasket because I noticed oil was leaking down the side of the block a little bit, but nothing major. It was a Fel-Pro gasket but I just replaced that with a genuine Nissan L28ET gasket. Just to be sure, I took the head to the machine shop to ensure flatness. Not sure if this is even a factor, but I just compression tested the motor a week ago. Keep in mind I have not really run the motor (as we have a bad clutch) and this is a cold test. The tested results ranged from 120-115. I read somewhere that the FSM calls for 145 :/ Is this something to be concerned about? I know they're consistent, but are these numbers too low for this situation? Thanks guys!
-
Hey guys,
Right now, we're running a Dynomax Turbo 2 muffler (muffler that comes with the MSA kit). We used to be NA with it, which was pretty loud, but now that we've gone turbo, it is almost silent
So as of now, I'm looking at a straight through muffler that will be about midway between loud and quiet because we have a cut out installed. My question is, what is the biggest diameter tip that will fit through the exhaust pipe cut out in the rear lower bumper? I'm thinking something along the lines of an HKS Hi-Power or a Greddy TiC. Thanks guys! -
Okay, well, we'll see what happens. I'll let you guys know what happens when I put it in. I appreciate all your help. Obviously, if it wasn't for you guys, I would not have been able to figure this one out. Thank you
-
So may we conclude that my VB921 is fried, and that it is safe to assume that is my problem?
-
Why wouldn't you go to a junk yard and snag what you need off a turbo motor and walk away not spending any more than $200-$300??
-
Black with yellow sound like a tach wire, don't take my word for it though...
-
I'm definitly leaning toward the possibility of a bad VB921 at this point.....
-
Here are photos of my board, doesn't appear that anything is fried, does it??
-
Here is a video awhile ago when it was untuned and before I changed head gasket:
http://s617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/jacob80a/?action=view¤t=102_7842.flv
Gosh I miss this
-
Ok, so here is a little test I did. I used the timing light and put it on the wire from the coil to the distributor. Here it is:
http://s617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/jacob80a/?action=view¤t=102_8628.flv
I'm thinking its my VB921....I've ordered the bosch upgrade. What do you guys think??
-
Here is something to note....R9 on my stim board is EXTREMELY hot, I just burnt myself!!
-
Okay, thanks again!
-
Yes we do, I need to double check it though, that's another thing I will do when I get home. As far as the cap and rotor and such, how do I go about checking these things?
-
Okay I know that's not the case! Ha ha, alright, well hopefully I get a spark
-
Okay, so back down the run dwell to 3.2 and do the coil test. I'll do these thongs and get back to you guys. I did confirm the timing was spot on before my spark decided to take a dump on me. So if there is a spark when I put that coil wire on but then no spark on the plugs...then what?
-
So keep the dwell where it's at, or optimize it? I hope I didn't fry my coil...
-
Did anyone else notice the 6ms Crank Dwell and 4ms Run Dwell settings? Isn't that way too high?
I've never ever touched the dwell settings...let's hope this is the problem...
-
-
Okay, so pull to wire from the distributor to the coil off on the coil side, and while someone cranks, slowly plug it back in and the spark should jump and i'll be able to see this? I guess I'm not sure which "post" you're referring to.
-
Okay, did that, and we have ~11.5v to the positive side while cranking. Now what?? Right now, my only thing I can think of is wait and see what that VB921 upgrade/replacement will do for me. Can you think of anything else I could try? Lets see here:
1. I have power to the coil positive (12.Xv) while the fuel pump primes when the key is turned to the ON position.
2. I have power to the coil positive while cranking (~11.5v)
3. When plugged into the stim, the spark light (D14 I believe) flashes, as it should.
4. My dizzy is sending an RPM signal to the computer.
5. Using a fresh spark plug, I am getting no spark.
This is what I have come up with through my diagnosis process. If the VB921 wasn't working or slightly damaged, would the spark light on the ECU still flash without getting spark to the plugs??
-
letitsnow is thinking the same thing I am: leave the meter attached to the coil and see what the reading is while cranking. Remember, you have the fuel pump wired in parallel so you're also checking to make sure it's getting power.
So put the multimeter to the positive side of the coil and see what it says while cranking, correct?
So as of now, I'm looking at a straight through muffler that will be about midway between loud and quiet because we have a cut out installed. My question is, what is the biggest diameter tip that will fit through the exhaust pipe cut out in the rear lower bumper? I'm thinking something along the lines of an HKS Hi-Power or a Greddy TiC. Thanks guys!
Megasquirt...hell...
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Great news guys, IT RUNS!!!!!! I couldn't be more excited, this issue has had me baffled until you guys stepped in and gave your time and effort voluntarily to help me figure it out, and I thank you so much. Here are some pictures and videos