dhp123166
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Posts posted by dhp123166
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The engine was a Nissan SD 33 T...
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International Harvester '80 came with a Nissan built L6 turbodiesel powerplant.
How sweet would it be to drop this into a Z car, boost the heck out of it,
and run it on biodiesel?
I wish I had some money...
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That should read "in the classifieds of HybridZ"
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I'm still kicking myself for not purchasing that NEW 1983 5 speed that
was advertised on the classified six months back...
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The thing is I totally baby my tranny after learning that I do not want to be paying for frigging rebuilds.
I really don't feel like doing it myself either and as my Z is my daily driver
it would not be practical.
I have payed top dollar for rebuilds and it never fails that within six months, something malfuctions.
Yes there is a warranty so I should be thankful for that.
It just seems that I had more luck when I was ignorant and gambling on used or silver spraypainted "rebuilds"...
Hurrah for lifes little ironies...
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"racing yellow"
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I was basically asking for opinions (note plural of the noun) concerning
peoples experience with standard transmissions on the L-28.
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Are 240/260/280/z/x transmissions really that hard to rebuild or more prone to failure than average?
Are most transmission rebuilders competent or was Frank Zappa right when he said ;
"Mediocrity is the standard of excellence in America"
If I want something done right do I have to do it myself?
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I just replaced my worn out stock diff. mount with...
A brand new stock diff mount.
I had ordered a solid steel mount but cancelled it when after doing
research and ascertaining that a solid steel one might be too noisy and as I have already lost the upper registers of my hearing range extra noise is
something I would like to avoid.
The weak point in the mount is the rubber which when it is new is not a problem, it is only after a long time of degradation that it fails, and really
after normal driving how often do these things fail due to that?
Every decade or so, if that?
I guess it depends what kind of driving one is doing, 'cause like they say;
"If you are not breaking anything you are not trying hard enough..."
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'76 280 Z-daily driver "Sometimes stock is good enough"
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Sweet
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I am in the Socal area. I had a card from this wheel repair service, they might have been called Dingmasters or Wheelmasters. They fix your curb rash right on the vehicle. Anyone use this service or have contact info??
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Anyone see the new BMW Z4 hardtops (not the convertible)?
They look like somewhat of an update of the 240/260/280 coupe concept.
It's especially poetic because it is designed by BMW...
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I guess the solution falls into one of three categories; the right way, the wrong way, or the easy way.
I have had similiar issues with lighting at the rear through no fault of the
wiring.
I "customized" my lights, in other words I ended up messing up a perfectly functional system.
Anyway I ended up rewiring at the bulbs and it is messing looking but it works.
I guess that would qualify for the easy way...
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I think it was one of the bushings on the outside of the rear control arm.
I don't remember too well, I'm reaching...
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What happened with one of my stock rear bushings ( the one with the metal tube in the middle), was that through wear and tear, the rubber got shaved down to the metal part. This led to a lower and rougher ride.
Maybe you have something similiar?
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No alternator would keep the system from functioning as a whole. ( I believe).
All things have to be working in order for the ECU to send power to the fuel pump.
My experience is that one cannot just get one thing to work in this system independently of another.
Conversely, if one thing is malfunctioning, the whole system will not function.
They all have to be functioning in order for the system to work...
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The thing I learned about EFI management in my Z is that it is a closed system.
All components have to be there for it to work.
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A fuel injected Z with no alternator will not run.
At least mine did not.
What happened was, I upgraded to an '86 Maxima internal voltage regulator model that cranked out 90 amps.
It was also a single wire app. I ran the power wire through the fusible link
like stock but kept frying links.
I ran it directly but it would not start.
One of the wires in the fusible link ( I forget which one, white with red stripe) signals the EFI or something.
I spliced it in to the four gauge power wire I am now using and it works fine...
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Did you check your sway bar mount on that side, where it bolts to the frame?
Sometimes the weld breaks and the sumbitch vibrates.
At least that is what happened to me.
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'76 280z
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The wire that connects to should be in the same wire bundle as where the wire going out of the resistor reenters the bundle, only slightly behind it (towards the ECU)...I guess look for a single black wire, maybe the terminal fell off or something...
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Dude,
I would find out where that connets to because I had that same thing in my '76 280z. I didn't think I needed it and I took it out.
Lo and behold the car would not start.
I put it back in and it started.
Someone told me it was some kind of starter resistor or something.
Of course I could be wrong...
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So I don't violate any rules, I have another fixit issue; my rearend.
There is a staccato rhythm emanating from the rear gear housing and I have noticed a decrease in performance from the differential (I think).
I'll be traversing an uneven concrete surface and as the rear axle bounces, the car will semi- lurch towards the left.
My first step is to replace the struts as they are perhaps overdue for replacement.
There is also a distinctive clunk as I shift into gears. Sometimes.
I don't know if the two are related. The tranny is six months on the rebuild.
As far as I know the rear end and attendent components have never been replaced in 30+ years...Just springs and bushings.
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You banned yourself for making an attack on yourself? Heehee, I like you...
VB/Black Dragon electric hatch solenoid
in Interior
Posted
The picture that Six Shooter posted is ( I believe ) the Autoloc trunk kit.
It is what I used, but with a few modifications.
I did not use the stock bracket, I rigged one so the solenoid mounts parallel with the hatch.
I made a "u" shaped bracket which mounts to the inside of the hatch and the solenoid sits inside the bracket.
I took the stock latch out and drilled a hole in the part opposite the stock "key pusher".
It was a while back so I don't remember exactly but if you take yours out you will see what I mean.
Basically you want a place for the solenoid cable to anchor on the stock mechanism so it will pull it when actuated.
I attached a piece of thick cable to this point and rehung the stock striker.
The next move was to attach the solenoid cable to the striker cable to find the right pressure.
It took a little jimmying around to find the right pressure, but this I adjusted with differing anchor points on the cable.
The only maintenance is I just keep it lubed with Triflow and I have had years of trouble free functioning.