T-Bone028

PanzerAce, thanks, I'll check it out tonight. Anyone have any ideas as to where to order a new headlight switch if it comes down to that? I've checked MSA, courtesyparts, etc, with no luck. I'm hoping I can take apart the switch, clean the connections and cross my fingers. But the fact that my wiper controls are turning on the fuel pump, and my A/F gauge no longer working makes me think it will be harder to figure out and that I most likely have a loose ground. The best part is that it happened all of the sudden and all at once, everything worked perfectly 2 days ago. I didnt even have the key in the ignition at any point yesterday! Sorry for the venting, its just frustrating...but I guess thats part of the fun of an old car.

Hey all, I did a search, and found that a couple of people have had the same problem as me, but a fix was never really detailed or discussed. My headlights will not turn off. I wasnt even playing with the wiring, just relocating some choke cables under the dash, and now the headlights wont turn off. Both low and high beams work, turn signals, hazards, wipers, dash, etc. Just cant get the headlights off...so for now I've disconnected the battery. Here's the full symptoms of what I'm seeing. 1.) Headlights stay on regardless 2.) Autometer A/F ratio meter no longer working 3.) First position of wiper setting turns on the fuel pump (even without having the key in the ignition). I'm guessing somehow a ground came loose? Or could it be something in the headlight switch? I tried pulling the fuse to the headlight, and that didnt do anything, so I'm guessing it must be a ground or something. Any ideas as to where to look? I just got the car a week ago, and the PO said he replaced the wiring the the Painless harness. I have NO IDEA where to start. Electrics are just not something that "clicks" with me. Any help would be appreciated it.

Thanks for the heads up. Filled it up with 5 qts and it reads its about a 1/4 quart over the fill line. Not sure what the deal is, my guess is, I didnt get the "large" size oil filter. I went with a Mobil 1 filter that looks about 2/3rds of the size of the filter that was already on it. I noticed that Courtesy Nissan still carries the larger size oil filters so I'll switch to that. Not really too concerned right now though, still have to check the rear brakes and tune/balance the carbs before I really take it out on the road.

I applaud you for your DIY style mentality. Usually form and functionality come at a price, and making things out of scrap can get the job done (for the most part) on a budget. In the JTR book, thats exactly what they did for the front strut tower brace. I would suggest doing a quick spray paint job to the brace in the meantime and putting back on your shock tower covers. Your new brace might be functional, but you have to admit its not pretty. Perhaps you can also look into the rustoleum DIY paint job as well. $100-150 in supplies and your own labor has given some descent results on this forum.

Thanks Ezzzz thats what I assumed as the only way to attach it. Unfortunately those clamps/crimps are long gone on my car. I am thinking of using some small diameter rubber hose and hose clamps to attach the sheathing to the nipple. Hopefully I can find a hose with a small enough inner diameter that will fit snuggly. Here's some pics for anyone that is interested in my newest acquisition. This isnt my first Z, but its in FAR better condition and I would say about 98% complete. Restoration was completed in 2002, and I picked it up a week ago.

Well, my attempt at a fix failed last night when I bought a 5 ft universal throttle cable. The inner cable itself was long enough, but the sheath was not. I'm heading to carquest today to pick up two 8ft cables and trimming to fit. Does anybody have a stock diagram or picture of the choke cables that attach at the SU end? My difficulty now is figuring out how to affix the sheath to the carb housing. Looking at my existing choke cables, the rubber is so deteriorated that I dont understand how they were attached at the carb from the factory (not where the cable ends are thread through, but how the sheath is connected). I'm not sure if I could use my old cables even if I were able to get them un-seized. After I can get this fixed I will actually have a car that runs without two people! (1 person to pull up on the choke, the other to start the car). Thanks to everyone for their input.

Thanks all, well I went to the auto parts store during my lunch break, and ended up with two "universal" throttle remote cables. About 5' long each with a flexible metal sheath. I'm hoping I can make it work and actually look okay at the same time. I'm planning on relocating my choke cables underneath the hood release handle with some brackets. I'll post pictures if this little ghetto fix proves to be successful and provides both "form" and "function".

I guess my question is, I cant get the cable out of the sheath because it is seized? Or maybe I just dont understand what you mean by removing the inner cable from the sheath.

The choke itself isnt frozen and moves freely, its the cables themselves that have seized. I'll try to soak them and see if that helps loosen it up. Does anyone else have any other suggestions?

I'm hoping some of you can give me some ideas or inspiration for fixing my choke cables on my 72 240Z. Seems that they have frozen and arent allowing me to operate the choke. I've tried spraying a little WD-40 into the sheath, and giving it some firm pulling in hopes of breaking it loose, but no luck. Does anybody have any tips on either repairing the frozen cables, or sources for a fix? I've searched and seen some people using universal-style cables, cannibalizing a lawn mower or bicycle brake cable, and other similar fixes. Only thing I can find at the auto parts store has been a universal replacement for a hood release cable, but I think it might be a little too big to fit. I'm also thinking of relocating the choke lever right underneath the hood release cable/handle and making a bracket to make it work. I've seen a bracket that some people have made to have it sit in the stock position, but I cant find any existing holes to attach it to, and would rather not drill into the trans tunnel. Does anyone have any other suggestions or pictures of their own setups? Any tips or "lessons-learned" advice would be much appreciated.

Thank you John and Tony, I'm over-paranoid I suppose. I wasnt sure if a 3.1L requires any more oil then a regular L series. Thank you for your clarifications. Any other suggestions on bringing back a 3.1L to optimal performance after sitting for 1 year? I was able to get the car started on Sunday, and on and off the trailer after draining the gas tank, putting in new gas, flushing the carbs, and spraying some starter fluid into the carbs, and jump starting it. I suppose my checklist of what needs to be done before I feel comfortable driving it would be: 1) Check or replace gas filter 2) Replace spark plugs 3) Change oil and filter (done) 4) Buy new battery (old one will not hold a charge) 5) Adjust carbs (I still dont understand SU's and have the Z-therapy dvd on order) 6) Bleed/Fill and inspect brakes 7) Flush/Fill cooling system Anything else that I should consider? According to the previous owner, the transmission and differential oil was changed last year. It was idling at about 1100 RPM before I shut it off.

Hello, I tried searching, but couldnt find what I was looking for. I recently acquired a 240Z with a 3.1L. It has the F54 block and P90 head, and I believe the stock oil pan. How much oil should I put in it after an oil change? I changed the oil last night and filled it up with 4 liters of oil, and the dipstick reads that it is at the correct level. I'm unsure if using the dipstick for checking the oil level is an accurate way to measure the oil level on a 3.1L. Can anybody give me a confirmation or suggestion from experience?

Looking for a nice S30 Z with minimal work needed in the MD, VA, or DC area. Budget is around 5K. Please PM or reply if you have something or know of a vehicle that is being sold. - thanks in advance

Hi Guys, first time poster, 3-year lurker. I've tried searching the forums but havent had that great of luck with the detail I'm looking for. I had a question about the floors from MSA which I understand is produced by Zedd Findings. How far does the included frame rail portion beneath the floor pans, extend past the firewall, if at all? Also with the BadDog Rails, were does it attach to? If I were to order the Bad Dog rails, would I still need the included Frame Rails with the Floor Pan replacement kit from MSA/Zedd Findings? I'm trying to get some ideas before I start ordering stuff. Any pics that you guys may have that identifies what is what would be a great help. I just bought my first Z (8/1974 260Z) last week and should have done a better job in inspecting the rust areas...the passenger side floor is in pretty bad shape. The frame rail portion beneath the passenger floor, behind the seat was held in place with double sided sticky tape to help get it sold. I didnt realize it until I had it up on jack stands and removed the seat. BTW, the plan is to eventually get a Chevy 350 in this money pit. Thanks in advance.