T-Bone028

Interesting color choice...its like a champagne/light green. Not really my cup of tea on a S30, but to each his own.

Its tough to tell, the picture makes it look like its just a shade of grey. Got any pics of the color in sunlight?

And here is what it should look like after they are molded in and smoothed. Just remember that fiberglass and metal dont always sit well together. Although I dont have any cracking/lifting yet, it is still a distinct possibility down the road. They have been on my car for about 8 years.

Let me just say this, I dont have a full cage, but I do have a roll bar in my car. It is not padded and I drive it on the weekends on the street. If I were to ever get in an accident, I would most likely still hit my head despite the 4 pt harness I use to keep me in place. The other day, a friend of mine went for a ride with me in my Z. I didnt give him any warning and I gunned it. The force of acceleration snapped his head back enough for him to hit his head on the roll-bar. My car is not the fastest car in the world. If just the acceleration out of my stroker is enough to make someone hit their head, I'm sure the forces of impact would be more than substantial for me or my passengers to be severely injured. I will be putting padding on it in the near future.

Looks like your making some decent progress. Might as well hit the rest of the floors/console/underbody with black or some sort of rustoleum/POR15. Take your time, might as well do everything right from the beginning instead of rushing to just see it come together. Take EVERYTHING apart, clean it, and re-paint...otherwise, you'll just nag at yourself knowing that there was something you skipped over but dont feel like doing because it would be a pain to take parts off or apart. Happy building.

After jumping, you only let it run for 2 minutes, which isnt sufficient enough time to let the alternator recharge the battery. Either your battery was dead from just sitting for an extended amount of time, or you have a draw which you will have to track down. I'm not sure what your question is to begin with?

I have the same problem with the car not always wanting to go into gear (sometimes, cant shift into any gear) I tried adjusting the clutch pedal per the FSM, but it didnt help. I'll be watching this thread for ideas.

Well, I cant answer 1 or 3, but with 2, rear brakes dragging...take off your drums, hit the adjusters with a lot of brake cleaner fluid, and adjust them out. Just push down/up on them with a flat head screw driver to move the shoes away from the drum. I believe the way I did it was I backed the shoes off the drum enough to the point that by hand, a forceful spin of each wheel/tire caused about 1 full revolution. They *should* adjust back to the proper distance after you use your parking brake a few times. I believe the factory setting should be 3 clicks of the parking brake lever to properly engage the parking brake.

$800!?!? Did it have a valid title and everything? I would agree, that was a STEAL!

Awesome, thanks for the info. I've heard different reviews on how well cross-drilled and slotted rotors work. I'm starting to hear some pad squeal from my front brakes and figure, if this is my weekend only car, might as well spend my weekend money on it. I think I'll definitely be looking into these rotors in the next month or so. Looking forward to seeing some updates as the project progresses.

I think it would be "easier" to turn your race car into a streetable car, but there will be sacrifices. Now having your race car pull double duty as a show car, thats just about impossible.

Pot Roast is my go to because it makes so much and gives me leftovers for 2-3 lunches. I however do mine in the oven. Set at 225. Takes about 4 hours. Crockpot is just as good. I dont think I ever use recipes, I just eyeball things and use whatever I have. Seasoning is just a quick blend of montreal steak seasoning, kosher salt, fresh-cracked pepper, and whatever else I have on hand like dried oregano/thyme/rosemary. I always use chuck roast...the other stuff like bottom round is always too tough and doesnt break down as nicely. Take meat. Season all sides. Quick sear on a blazing hot pan on all sides. Deglaze pan with 14 oz can of beef broth. To provide more flavor and arromatics, I throw in carrots, celery, onions, minced garlic (2 cloves or so), baby red potatoes, and button mushrooms. Make sure each vegetable is of similar size after chopping. Be sure to season those veggies with salt and pepper as well and a drizzle of olive oil. Put most of those veggies in your crockpot or baking dish. Put your nicely seared roast on top of the veggies, put the remaining veggies around the roast, and pour in your broth that you just deglazed the pan with. Let the slow cooking begin. Just remember, letting meat rest after cooking is a fundamental rule that should always be followed. For something like a 2 pound roast, I would wait 30 minutes before any cutting or eating is done. Usually, I take those 30 extra minutes to take whatever juices and leftover broth from the cooking process, and turn that into a quick gravy. Just mix about 2 tablespoons of floor with 4 table spoons of water to create a slurry, add the slurry to a small pot with the leftover cooking juices and bring to a boil. Give a taste and season as necessary and reduce to a simmer. Sit down and enjoy flavor country. Funny how this thread came up, cooking is just one of my 3 passions. Guitars, Cars, and cooking. All those things relax me like no one's business.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html Link should give you a good idea of what type of combos produce what. EDIT: My mistake, just realized this is for the L28 only.

In case you cant find one, and you arent concerned about having Datsun OEM parts on there, I'm sure it wouldnt be very hard to fabricate a heat shield. Others have done so on this forum, if you search I'm sure you can find some inspiration.

What kind of noise is it making when you're trying to crank it over? Clicking? Nothing? Cranking but wont start?

But it has a claimed 350 horsepower out of a naturally aspirated L6!!! Why do people even make claims like that? If you can include a build list and dyno sheet to go with it then thats one thing...but it is ebay so I guess who cares right?

Old school?! Despite that head being built in the 70's...its still relevant even today. That thing is HOT. 24-valve head. AWESOME. Thanks for sharing!

No offense, but that is one mess of a daily driver! That is if your signature is still accurate. What about making a full metal dash and skinning it in CF? Might help clean up that interior a little bit. Or you can use it to make a CF "cover" for your valve cover...those apparently are worth $150 according to MSA...useless in my mind but that besides the point.

Vekdord, Can you tell me more about the R1 Concept rotors? I looked them up on the web, and they looked like they were vented rotors in the pictures. I'm assuming that the pictures are just a representation and not actual. So are these rotors just cross-drilled and slotted? Are they pretty much direct bolt-on fit? Did you have to modify/fabricate any brackets or change your caliper? Any details you can provide regarding the quality and installation would be appreciated. Looking good btw!

...coolant disappearing. Have you checked your oil cap or dipstick yet? If it looks milky in any way then you'll have a guess as to where its going...hopefully that wont be the case though! Sometimes its just as simple as a defective radiator cap that is allowing coolant to escape. The other thing could just simply be air-bubbles. They settle out or "burp" and your coolant is lower as a result. Maybe do a flush and fill and go from there?

Looks great! Noticed a little tree-sap or paint imperfection on the hood. I bet a little clay bar and some scratch-x along with a thorough wax and polish will get it even better looking! Did it to mine just 2 weeks ago...the improvement in paint was night and day.

I dont know if I could stomach subjecting a Z to that kind of punishment. I know cars are meant to be driven...but rally racing just takes it to a whole new level!

go to www.classiczcars.com and search for Zs-ondabrain and LED's. As far as I know, there are not any "standard" off the shelf product for LED conversions for any of the lights...but I could be mistaken. I know with 240Z's you will find that relays installed for both the headlights and parking lights will increase the amount of light output considerably, and also take the load off of the combo-switch (at least for 240Z's they help, I'm unsure about 280Z's). The relay kits sold on MSA for 240Z's are actually produced by Zs-ondabrain and are a worthwhile purchase. As far as doing something similar with your 280Z, I'm sure it has been done and you will be able to find a write-up of someone that has installed headlight/parking light relays on a 280Z. Good luck.

Just a quick indicator, pull your dipstick and wipe it off on a clean white paper towel. If the oil looks milky, you prob blew your headgasket.

Isnt that hood scoop the OEM correct fix to underhood heating issues? I'm pretty sure they were installed on cars that had customers coming in for overheating issues and fixed under warranty. Linked to here: http://zhome.com/History/ComHood.htm