T-Bone028

Have you tried google and buying the same spark plug online?

Search for "combo switch" and windshield wiper switch and learn as much as you can about the datsun wiring. Its not fun. My problem was my own mistake and not seeing it, but the 3 days of tracing wires and reading up before I finally found my problem was worth it in experience and familiarizing myself with the painless wiring kit the previous owner installed in my car. Good luck!

+1 on keeping them. Think of it this way, if you're going to do an RB swap, you have backup L6 engine build components for the future. Besides, old school Z's with old school power have that nostalgic cool factor that you just cant deny.

So, after really thinking about it and taking the advice of starting with the thing I last "fixed", I was able to find the culprit. It was my own mistake when soldering. Part of the wire, on the top left of the combo switch that I had THOUGHT I had properly re-soldered, was partially touching the metal combo-switch housing, causing the short. I ended up re-positioning the exposed wire, so it was only touching the correct terminal, and wrapping the wire with electrical tape to make sure no bare wire was exposed for future mishaps. Sometimes the easiest things are the most often overlooked. Thank you for everyone's input, it has helped me gain a better understanding of how relays and general electrical wiring works, and has helped me familiarize myself with both the painless wiring harness in my car and the stock datsun switches.

Picked up a multi-meter this morning...will report back what I find after I do some tests. I guess my question now is, what else can cause a wire to short, or a fuse to blow? I've been trying to wrap my head around this, and figure out what is causing it. I've checked every connection from the console to the fuse box and forward. I cannot find any thing that is not well connected and securely wrapped and contained. The way it looks like the PO set up power to the parking light circuit, was by tapping into the headlight power supply. I know the headlights on my car are set up on a relay, but I'm unsure about the parking lights. 1) Can a bad solder job cause a wire to short? 2) When soldering, if the wire gets heated up too much by the soldering gun, can that cause the short? 3) If the parking lights power supply is run off of the headlight power supply, and the power supply wire for the parking lights is using a much thinner gauge then the power supply for the headlights, can that cause a short? 3) If a relay is added to the parking lights, that should decrease the amount of power going through the switch correct? I understand that I am an infant when it comes to electrical systems. Just trying to learn so I can understand, fix, and know what to do in the future. FYI, I decided that throwing parts at the car is a method I cant deny. I purchased the parking light relay harness from MSA. I'm hoping that it might "cure" the problem. And if not, then at least once it is fixed, I have a relay operating the parking lights, dashlights, running lights, etc.

It doesnt seem to be my headlights that is causing the short or fuse to blow, but instead my parking lights / dash lights. What I found was on the top of the combo switch (ignore the red writing, I took this image from another forum), if I removed the wire on the top left (which I believe is the power for the parking lights and dash lights?) then my headlights come on when in the correct switch position. The fuse does not blow. I had originally re-soldered the wire on the top left this past weekend, so maybe I fudged it up? I tried re-soldering it again tonight, but it still blew the fuse in the parking light position on the combo switch. I've tried tracing all the wires and the connections look good. I took apart the combo switch 2 nights ago, and cleaned it really well and removed all the corrosion and traded contact sides for fresh metal like in the instructions found in this forum. I'm somewhat hesitant to buy a new combo switch, because I'm unsure if it is the problem. Side note: does anyone know if the combo switch for the 280Z works in the 240Z? And yes, Im still trying to learn as much as possible how electricity flows. Its confusing me to no end. Thanks for your insights Roger, it is helping me understand despite my lack of problem solving ability.

Looking for the headlight combo switch for a 240Z. Mine is a 72...not sure about the differences between years, please let me know what you have.

I will try to get pictures taken. It was pretty easy though once I started thinking about it.

Ok so after manually checking the fuse box for a faulty fuse, I found one. Unfortunately, the PO switched to a aftermarket fuse box and it is not labeled but thats besides the point. Switched the blown fuse (30 amp) with a good 30 amp fuse, tried to turn on the lights and the new fuse blew. Can a faulty relay(s) cause a fuse to blow? Or would it mean that I have a short or bad ground somewhere in my wiring under the dash? Just trying to pinpoint where to look.

Roger, just let me understand this correctly. If I put a jumper on the relay, it should power the headlights, correct? If the headlights come on, then that would mean that I am not getting power at the combo switch, but instead getting power directly from the battery to operate the electromagnet in the relay. So if a jumper on the relay works and powers the headlights, that means that the combo switch itself, is not getting power, and is not actuating the relay to complete the circuit when the combo switch is in the "on" position. In which case I would have to figure out where the power is being lost between the firewall and the combo switch. Am I understanding that correctly? Sorry for the questions, I just want to make sure I understand how it works so I can pinpoint the power problem.

Thank you Roger, I ended up taking apart the combo switch last night and cleaned it per the instructions I've seen posted in various forums. There was corrosion and pitting, but I switched the two plates/tabs so that there was fresh metal for the contacts and cleaned everything up. The switch operates mechanically as it should...its just not getting power. I think the culprit is somewhere in the relays...perhaps one is stuck open/closed? I am honestly a complete idiot when it becomes to electrical issues. I will post back when I test the coils on the relays for power.

So, after fixing my intermittent dash and parking lights issue by re-soldering a loose connection, I have come across something even more frustrating. My parking lights, headlights, and dash lights ARE NOT working. They were working perfectly 2 days ago. Brake lights, turn signals, hazards, and high beams work. The previous owner installed a painless wiring harness, and at the same time installed relays for the headlights. The relays should fail before the switch fails correct? The switch was confirmed as good two days ago. Does the relay(s) control power for both the parking lights and headlights? The only thing I can think of that I did that could cause this to fail was I pulled out my the mechanical speedometer from my dash to see why it wasnt working, which was just a result of it not being hooked up to the speedo cable. Perhaps I knocked a ground wire loose? I cant think that knocking any wire loose is the cause because all the wiring to the switch in the column is contained in a well wrapped harness, separate from the electrical wires to the speedo. Any ideas as to where to start looking? I pulled fuses to see if any of them were burned out and they all looked good/clean. Would love any feedback or suggestions that anyone can provide.

I'm with you clutchdust...after "fixing" my parking lights and dashlights this weekend... For some reason, now my headlights, parking lights, and dash lights arent coming on anymore. Doesnt even sound like they are getting power because I dont hear any drop in my loud as hell holley fuel pump. The joys of working on this car is so often met with an intense level of frustration.

Looks clean G-rant! Definitely agreed on needing a lower stance. Paint that airdam and that should be about all you need for it to be an even cleaner looking Z! Congrats!

Here's mine.

My soldering iron was $6 from Advanced Auto Parts. It was tricky getting in that area, but I was able to get it done. Just kept on melting the old solder, wiping off the tip on a damp paper towel, and doing it again until it was as clean as possible. Then going back in with a razor blade to carefully scrape the terminal clean. I did accidentally snip the old end off the wire, and exposed some fresh copper as a result. Tedious, but I know I wont have to do it again anytime soon.

Clutchdust, I had the same problem happen earlier this week. If you look at the picture that "NOTSUREWHATTPUT" posted in post #2, the terminal on the top left is the one you need to look at. Make sure that the solder/wire is securely attached. Mine was loose/cracked causing intermittent lighting for the dash and parking lights. What I did: I removed the old soldering material from the wire and terminal. Carefully scraped the wire and the terminal with a razor blade to remove any old soldering material. Tested the connection between the exposed wire and the newly cleaned terminal to make sure it was the cause of my finicky lights. It was. Drank a beer. Re-soldered the wire to the terminal. Problem solved and dash lights and parking lights turn on as they should.

I say go with an inexpensive paint gun, and trying to find a deal on some paint. Here's an idea for a super cheap DIY paint booth that should probably fit in your garage. If your air compressor is there, might as well not bother moving it. Go to the dollar store. Buy $1 shower curtains. as many as you need to cover the walls of your garage. Buy some duct tape while your there, and buy enough to cover the floor of your garage as well. Maybe $10-$15 total? Tape your shower curtains together, and either hang them from some wall hooks or tape them to the walls themselves. Cover the floor of your garage, and hose it down with some water before you pull the car in and start spraying. I havent done this myself, but it was something I thought about a long time ago. I'm sure you can get creative with a make-shift paint booth, and still get some descent results without going the rustoleum route. Good luck and hope to see some pics.

I know there has been a lot of debate in the past regarding the use of a 4-barrel carb on the L6. Let us know what you think of it once you have it installed. I personally have the SU's on my 3.1, and I have a set of webbers and manifold in a box that I dont think I will ever install. For street driving, the SU's should be capable of feeding the 3.1L and still being very drivable without a whole lot of complexity. Hope to hear your feedback after you get the AZC manifold/carb installed.

Congrats!!! I think there would be nothing better than sharing a passion for S30's between father and son, along with having a little friendly competition on who's car is better in what areas as you two start making some changes. Its going to happen, might as well lay out a gameplan now! Hope to see some pictures of both when you get a chance. I would also second the miata seats. They were in my 240Z when I got them and they are a lot more comfortable than the stock seats in my 260Z...but then again I'm only 5'9" and 160.

Thanks PanzerAce...little update. Turned out my issue was an operator error. I'll just leave it at that...haha. Luckily though, while I was in the steering column area, I did notice that a solder joint had cracked and was the culprit for an intermittent gauge light issue. I suppose poking around in the column wasnt a waste afterall. I was also able to learn that the previous owner graciously installed headlight relays. Shouldnt have to worry about a bad switch anytime soon. Thanks to all for their feedback and suggestions...Sometimes the easiest things are often overlooked! Now to adjust and balance the carbs, replace the spark plugs for peace of mind, and check out the rear brakes...after that, she'll be ready for the road as soon as we get a nice day!

Anyone else have any ideas? I'm going to tackle the switch tonight, but if there is anything else I can try, please chime in.

$25 shipped is a great price. Cost me about $40 in materials and parts to get mine working again and they arent even close to OEM.

HA! Never thought that it could be the stopper moving. I'll measure it tonight.

Thanks everyone for your input, I made a fix out of a pair of universal throttle cables (8 ft long) trimmed them to fit, a couple of small diameter rubber tubing bits, hose clamps, and some misc brackets. The choke knobs (havent figured out a way to connect both knobs together yet) are now relocated next to the hood release and mounted using the same mounting holes as the hood release bracket. Overall, very clean and dont have to worry about putting stress on the console.