socorob
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Posts posted by socorob
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It would be nice to open the doors some more. I can barely squeeze in if the door is touching the post. The lift I use had a cylinder blow out on it with a ford diesel 4 door duallie on it. It was on the stops so the truck didn't go anywhere. but the cylinder was in a bind so they weren't able to get it out. They had to jack the truck up about an inch or 2 so they could get the cylinder out. That's scary when such a big truck is already 6 feet off the ground. Needless to say, they redid both cylinders once they were able to get a new cylinder in and get the truck down.
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Someone I know has a 2 and 4 post drive on lift. All he ever uses the 4 post for now is for vertical car storage. He said it's too hard to work on the cars on it, so he just uses it to gain floor space.
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I lift mine on the bad dog rails. I extended the back of them to tie into the structure that's between the rear shock towers under the car. The lift I use has these little rubber disks that are about an inch or so thick, and look like hockey pucks. I lift our honda on the seam under the rockers using those in between and they haven't bent yet, but I've only had that car on the lift 4 or 5 times. My Z stayed on it for sometimes weeks at a time on the bad dog rails with no issues. Is there a reason you're not centering the car fore and aft with the posts?
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What transmission?
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The ace hardware here sells rubber rivnuts, but you still need to paint the inner fender after cutting and welding.
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Does the alignment one go high enough to park another car under?
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You should post what year you have since earlier years have more room than later, since they don't have the cat hump. Also your height. I'm 6'1, and with miata seats with lowered brackets, my helmet clears the roof by an inch or so. Some people put seats in higher and lose headroom, so that may or may not be an issue for you.
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Mine fell apart when I tried to take it out, so I sprayed a couple coats of lizard skin heat and sound on both sides of the firewall while the engine was out. Don't notice any heat coming through, so I think it works well.
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All you need is a nut(a flange nut with serrations to help keep the rivnut from spinning is best), and a grade 8 bolt. Get the flange nut a size or 2 down from the size bolts you want to use. Drill the threads out of the flange nut so the bolts will fit through snugly. Using a flange nut lets you push down tight with an end wrench, and use a drill to turn the bolt to suck it down. Basically what this guy has in the video but replace that long threaded hex piece with a flange nut you drill out. Cheap, easy and works great.
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Another question I have, which I'm not sure if this would vary between cars with different control arm lengths, is ...... is there an optimal angle the lca should angle down from horizontal, or a useful range? I know some point is too much and some point is not enough, but what would that range be? And on the subject of length, is it best to keep the front track width within a certain distance compared to stock?
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My manual tool came with an allen head bolt to crank it down with. I saw a lot of people on youtube using a cordless drill, so I replaced the allen head with a grade 8 bolt on my standard one and 12.9 on the metric one and run them down with a cordless drill. It crushes them down quickly. GO to 21:30 and you can see what I mean.
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I want to do this for 2 reasons. First, to help improve camber gain. Right now my lca is almost level, so I don't think I'm getting the full potential of front grip. The second is some worn roads here. The valleys were made by trucks and suv's, which have a much wider track than me. My car is very jittery when driving on it with one wheel in the depression and another on top. It goes all over the place. My tie rods and my lca's are at very different angles. You can tell just by looking at them that they are off a bunch and things won't be moving in the Same plane as everything goes up and down.
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That's clean looking. Did the 7/8'' make a big difference?
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Are they talking about rivets, which may be aluminum, or rivnuts?
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A little of both. My car gets a little squirrelly on this one road here where the road has depressions where the tires have sank the road a little, but the center and edges are higher. Since I will be getting the longer tie rods with spacers from TTT and will have to take some things apart and realign it, I thought it would be a good time to address that if needed. Right now I can only get just over 2 degrees of camber and I run out of tie rod, that why I want to get the longer ones, plus he said he has spacers to help get them more in line. My control arms are barely angles down, maybe just a few degrees. My think was is would be good to get some angle back to the arms for some camber gain, but not sure if I am looking at this correctly or not. I was thinking something like this picture from arizona z.
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What other ways do you control bumpsteer? Is one of the ways by spacing the outer tie rod like this?
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Do you know if anyone has had any problems with the control arm bolt walking when the crossmember was slotted?
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So does the steering knuckle look like it would need to be shorter or longer?
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I have seen the point be moved up an inch. Is that the most ideal place, or if it was moved outboard slightly also, would it help any by widening the track and adding some negative camber?
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So you wont have to watch the video.
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This is an old video and at 1:13 you can see they used heims for the outer tie rods, the control arm, and tc rod. 3 rods cover everything. looks like they use a rod end instead of a balljoint too.
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what does their rebuild comprise of?
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22478 lower and 21588 upper are some gates numbers I found, but double check them.
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There's another thread on here with the part numbers. That's the exact setup I have and I got my part numbers from that thread.
280Z Kick panel speaker pods in development. with content!
in Interior
Posted
Aren't the early and late 280's a little different down there?