Eric JB

Hey all, Wondering how fast (ET) any of you have gone in the quarter with stock 280 stub axles and flanges? I am not pushing mine very hard with an auto, and a tight converter, and running 12.05 to 12.08. I am putting it up on the converter to stage, so everything is preloaded and there is minimal shock.(235/60 mickey dr's) I would like to upgrade the heads, cam, ect, Should I upgrade the stubs before I go any harder? Thanks.

Hey weedburner, I thought I saw you not long ago rolling down Hwy 20. Car looks baddass. RebekahsZ As far as 60ft ( 1.70 ) and consistency goes, It repeats pretty well. It is VERY sensitive to tire pressure. I run Hoosier 26x8 slicks @ 13psi. 12 dead hooks (and usually redlight) and 14 spins too much ( and is late) When I tore it down 2 years ago, the clutch was smelly, and a very slight discoloration on the flywheel and PP. I run a stock lightened 240mm flywheel and a stock Z PP. I don't even notice a slip, Just enough to not break shit. I have been in the money twice in 3yrs. Just getting back into it after a 20yr lapse. Once in the truck, once in the Z. I thought about putting switches on the pedal too. I just went with the steering wheel. Rsicard, The valve is free flowing in the engaging of the clutch. So whether the line lock is activated or not, it is not restricted, Just the release is restricted (adjustable), and only when the shifter is pushed.

After I do my burnout, I roll up and turn the top bulb on.(prestage) Then I LIGHTLY hit the brake pedal and press the line lock button. Not enough to lock the front tires, just enough to give resistance. Bump it in with the clutch, til the 2nd bulb flickers on. As shallow as possible so I know where I am every time. Push the shifter forward to activate the clutch line lock. I have mine set so it has to be pushed, not just in gear. 1st amber, mash the gas pedal to the wood and let it bounce off the rev limiter. 3rd amber dump the clutch as hard as you want since the flow is slowed down. Since it is a one way valve, you can put the pedal back in normally for the 1-2 shift, and when you let it back out the line lock will be open. I have my valve set pretty open. I just dont hear the BANG when I dump it. Same clutch/ trans/driveshaft/ Datsun truck diff. (488's)

# is 7824K21. Needle valve, 1/8 nptf female.

I might still have the receipt in the shop. I will try to find it.

I have a 72 521 truck, LZ 2.3 /stick, I bracket race. (13.60's @ 94mph) I cant run a 2 step in my class, so I had to find a way to leave on the high chip (7k) without it coming apart. This is what worked for me. Plumb a line lock between the clutch master and slave. (39.95 Summit). On each side of the line lock, put a T running to a one way adjustable valve. (28.00 McMaster Carr) Wire the line lock to a switch on the shifter so it is only activated when pushed in 1st gear. It diverts the fluid through the valve so you can control the flow and reduce the shock. Once you get it set you can lock it down with a locknut. Three years of abuse without a failure. Push the shifter forward, mat the pedal and let it go. Sorry for the thread jack. Just trying to help. My V8Z digested the stock halfshafts last week (auto) so I feel your pain.

Those look like the correct bolts. They have the fine straight knurl on the OD. Can anyone provide a correct axle length? I have a spare set of Bus CV's for my sandrail that I wont need.

He must have switched over after he took this pic. The original type 2 bolts are a 8mm 12 point allen. Not trying to knock his stuff. Just trying to find a way around $900.00.

These are listed for a 510. They look a bit thicker than the Wolfcreek adapters. Not sure about the bolt pattern either. http://www.md-machinist.com/datsun-cv-adapters.html

Sway away has axles for Type 2 (bus) in many lengths. I believe they will do custom lengths as well. One could pick up some used bus axles for dirt cheap, and swap the cv's side to side. http://www.swayaway.com/Axles.php# The Wolfcreek kit doesn't have the correct bolts either. Should be Allen's.

Figured it was better to revive an old thread than start a new one. If someone has a set of the Wolfcreek cv axles, and could verify whether or not the axle length 15 5/8, You would be 4 adapters away from being done with this kit. http://www.amazon.com/Empi-Chromoly-I-R-S-Spline-Axles/dp/B009NUL3BS Since the Wolfcreek ad states the cv's are Porsche "type", they are probably vw bus joints. Plenty strong if they are good quality.

I built a sheet metal box as well. It is recessed 1 1/2 to 2 inches at an angle. Looks just like Ritrebor's. Then I cut the plastic cover down on the B and M Mega shifter and fastened it to the console.

Heres mine. 406/700r. Still trying to sort it out.

I made mine based on the JTR manual. I had to look at a pic to remember where the setback plate was. As I look at it, I dont see how it could be against the block. how would it clear the fuel pump block off?

Chevette springs. Interesting. Haven't heard of that. Any year to look for?

Still in need of a pair of aftermarket 280z rear springs.

Thank you for the replies. Whatnow, Do you know if they are for a 280 or 240? I think the 240's were shorter. You say they are stiffer than your stock 280 springs. Might be worth a try.

406/700r/3.54's here. I have 235 60 15 drag radials.(pretty close to 26 inches) In third gear at 5k, I'm at about 108mph. I don't have a speedo, so that is off the timeslip. www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm is a good source for gearing calculators.

I am in need of a pair of stiffer rear springs for my 76 280/400sbc. It is squatting too much on launch. If anyone has a pair of anything that would drop it an inch or so and stiffen it up, please PM me. Also, if you have had a similar situation, and could help me with a remedy, it would be appreciated.

I had my driveshaft guy make me a complete bolt in unit. He didn't even have to look it up. Said they were pretty common. The JTR unit is not their own. it's just what they figured out would fit from something else. I believe it is from a Volvo.