deuce8ernerozero
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Posts posted by deuce8ernerozero
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"It is a common misconception that the 280ZX's L28 engine is less powerful than the L24 engine of the 1970 240Z; the difference is due to Nissan adopting the SAE net standard of power measurement, which resulted in lower power ratings than the earlier gross figures and added emissions". http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_S130
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Efi s30's hp were measured in a different way than s130s. That's why it seems like they had more power. The 77 that was suppose to have 170hp actually was like 135.
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I converted my stock 77 280z to megasquirt. I used a 240sx tps bolted to the stock sensor's base plate. I bought a second coolant temp sensor for my air temp sensor. I used that same sensor to calibrate the coolant temp sensor. You need shielded wire for your vr sensor input from the distributor. I used a pwm idle valve from a focus. And a bpsx wideband kit. Which is the cheapest wideband with a gauge I've found. Two sites to look at. Www.Megamanual.com and diyautotune.com. and there is a thread here on hybridz.org on an install of MS2 on a 280z using the stock wiring harness. It's there. Search for it. Gavin has tunes. Good luck.
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Thanks guys you are a big help. Does the z31 coil need a ballast or capacitor? I've been hearing about some kind if cap to help it charge? That and which color wire on the harness is pos and neg?
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I would like to know what everybody is running for dwell on their megasquirt direct (single) coil control on thir l-gata z. For example the stock ballasted 280z coil. The " hot" z31 300z coil and various performance coils.
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It's for a Turbo conversion
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Thanks, I'm going to see if I can work with it tomorrow. I found out the tdc Mark is gone off the damper. I'm gonna see if I can find it again this time with a high powered flashlight. Did you ever have this problem?
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I put a fresh battery on the car and it started right up, but it seems to be off time a good bit. The motor kicked back the second time i cranked it and it has some dieseling sound while idling. It doesnt want to idle any higher than 600rpm and wants to die without throttling, the air adjustment screw will not change the idle. That and theres a big cloud of nasty old gas smelling fumes coming out of the exhaust. i picked up a set of plugs a step hotter to resist fouling while im tuning it. i also am draining the old gas out today before i try anything. Is it said to put the trigger offset at 60 for a z that hasnt had its distributor moved from the factory spec of 10 degrees? I saw that somewhere. Anyway, i got a timing light and im going to try to time it. Do i need to turn off the megasquirt to have my changes to the trigger offset be effective?
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Got the stimulator or it together in 15 minutes. Everything is perfect. Except my idle valve isn't working. But that's expected. Q4 gave me the most trouble. It turns out a drained old battery that's turning a starter will turn MS on but will make it act funny. Bench power 13v-rpms. wore out 9v ~the same output like 6v-7v output-no rpms. So, it's new battery time. I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks
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Got the stimulator or it together in 15 minutes. Everything is perfect. Except my idle valve isn't working. But that's expected. Q4 gave me the most trouble. It turns out a drained old battery that's turning a starter will turn MS on but will make it act funny. Bench power 13v-rpms. wore out 9v ~the same output like 6v-7v output-no rpms. So, it's new battery time. I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks
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Got the stimulator or it together in 15 minutes. Everything is perfect. Except my idle valve isn't working. But that's expected. Q4 gave me the most trouble. It turns out a drained old battery that's turning a starter will turn MS on but will make it act funny. Bench power 13v-rpms. wore out 9v ~the same output like 6v-7v output-no rpms. So, it's new battery time. I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks
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Yeah. I believe the software is set up correctly. Msns is the only box checked on outputs and code base. Q22 and q23 are very clean looking. Diode orientation is correct.. I figured having both pots ccw would be as sensitive as it could be. I'll tweak them next time I can. I need it to dry up first. It's been a very wet summer. As for the distributor. Yeah the car was running before I gutted the toilet flapper efi out of it. I have a stimulator in the mail so I can diagnose the board. I never checked the air gap. I'll check that next time I'm tinkering with it. I never thought to check book volts at the sensor. I could rule out the sensor that way. Thanks
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I think it worked. I've never had to zip anything before
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Like, under spark settings or outputs and codebase? is there another way to upload my .msq? it wont let me attach it.
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Okay guys im totally stumped. The car is a stock 1977 280z with a n47/n42 and stock distributor. I am attempting to megasquirt it v3.0 board msns-e 029y4. I cant get the vr sensor to read rpms or better yet i cant get tuner studio to see rpm while im cranking. I built this board myself, everything looks good. Both trim pots are 18+ turns ccw. Ive wired the vr sensor backwards nothing. The only way to get that rpm gauge to move is to short the sensor and tap the connector together. I dont own a scope but i do have a multimeter. I dont have a stimulator but theres one in the mail, It will be here soon. I have no idea whats going wrong, As far as i know it should be triggering. Please help. pictures of the board are attached. thanks
l28 NA recommendations
in MegaSquirt
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That and I hear e85 acts like race gas under boost and that it's damn near impossible to make it knock. Is that true Moby?