RS Speed

Found a current pic actually, pretty much running out of space haha also got my CNC plasma operational which is a major plus.

New shop has been going really well but It's also cutting into my build time. However I'm getting better tooling and making cad files for all the parts on the conversion so I can A) recreate another much easier and B make revisions to my current design should I find some issues. These pics are actually about 2 months old but I wanted to post something at least lol.

I've got the rear subframe almost mounted. I was in Europe for 16 days so I've only been back a week since the last update. Also I got a new shop which I'll be moving into so I can complete the project over there as my flagship build. I'll post some progress pics up later tonight.

Little update on the build. I've starting mocking up the rear subframe and stripping the entire car back down to nothingness. Going to do new floors and tunnel, along with new wiring and modern fuse box. Hopefully I'll get the entire subframe mounted before I take off for my Euro trip this Sunday. Speaking of euro... plates came in for the 6

Gather around folks I'm building my dream car. Some may know me here, some may not. I've been building nissans for 15 years now. My last personal build started in 2009 on this forum but I stopped documenting after 2011. I just sold my entire setup to my best friend, which I also sold my 2nd 240z too. So I'm starting to document a new chapter in my build. I tore down my black car and we are completely rebuilding my friends orange one better than ever. The original setup was amazing, never let me down. R34 NEO motor, GT35R, Tein coilovers with edfc, clsd, axles, wilwoods.... etc. This brings us to my new build and it's current state on my rotisserie waiting to get massacred. I'll post some photos and get this ball rolling Donor car was an ever so gracious R33 GTR Vpec, 90% of parts came from the same car. I will be grafting front and rear sub frames into my Z chassis, including the AWD system, Brembos, suspensions (tein), Axles, Diff, etc from the GTR... I've even gone ahead and gotten the GTR pedel set and Master so she should feel as GTR as possible from inside. Steering column, steering rack all modern and hydraulic (and left hand drive ) I've collected 90% of the bizarre hardware associated with the awd system too. Also will be doing GTR gauges, chassis strengthening, new wiring, wheels, so on and so forth.... My old car was quite the track beast, I intend to make this one deadlier than ever. More so I just love building so I'm doing it Grab some popcorn, this ones going to take a minute!

So it's been 5 years since I Posted on this build thread, the car became a monster after all this and I wish I kept posting but.... I'm rebuilding my car again. Just sold my entire drivetrain, starting from scratch. Should I start a new build thread or continue here??? Admins let me know We can change the title to " AWD RB26DETT 240z build (april 2016) continued on Page 11" .... or I start a new thread

I spaced mine 1/4 inch from the support and sealed the sides with foam door trim from pepboys/kragon/autozone to keep a good seal and not to put any pressure up against the rad at all. Highly recommend PRC radiators, haven't had a problem in 3 years and I know a ton of guys on the RB board run them too.

Either test on another RB or you can plug the ecu into the harness and power up the wires with a 12v battery that would normally get wired into your cars harness and see if the ecu comes to life... you can spin the CAS and see if the injectors click to see if shes good to go. On a side not I've seen worse looking dents on ecu's that still worked fine. Before powering it up though I'd open the case up and make sure the dented part is not contacting any surfaces on the board causing shorts.

Especially with the rear sump pan since those are hard to come by now... I would just look to make sure all associated wiring/ecu/connectors are all there.

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. Also a spike of 1-2 psi for a couple millisecond or so is pretty acceptable for an electronic boost controller, just nothing greater or longer than that.

There is no way to know what duty cycle percentage will yield a certain boost number without actually testing on the car... wayyyyy to many variables to have one setup work on another car so don't listen to anyone's suggested numbers either! But you can set it yourself pretty easily. Just dial the duty cycle to a low number like 10 and go full throttle and see what boost it hits. If you see it only gets to 5 psi turn it up another 10 and test again. Keep going to a higher number until you reach the boost you want. Also leave your gain at 10, pretty safe number so you don't get boost spikes.

Search exhaust manifold instead of header for better results but generally speaking the 240z is pretty tight on clearance due to the shock tower location. Custom manifold is going to be your best bet.

stop spending money on the car and get some real internet man

have you pulled coilpacks one by one to pinpoint the problem to a specific cylinder? At least if you can find the culprit you can swap coils/injectors from other cylinder to rule out a bad coil or injector.