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kerristallax

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About kerristallax

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    lupkinauto.com

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  • Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
  1. They aren't scammers, you aren't at risk for losing your money. As others have mentioned, they are busy and not very good at communication. They don't ask for necessary information like what differential flange you have (8mm bolts vs. 10mm bolts, which pattern) up front, so your best bet is probably to call them and talk to a person to get your order straightened out. I suspect that there are probably 100 teenagers that read about the RB engine on the Internet and email them pointless questions for every 1 person that actually buys something from them, which doesn't help the problem. I have their engine and transmission mounts and their driveshaft for my RB25 280z. Simply put, their stuff does work, and they are one of the only games around if you want to buy pre-made RB swap parts for the S30. You get zero instructions with it, so be aware of that. If you are installing the RB25det transmission in a 280z, you have to cut out the old factory tranny mounts and drill holes through the floor.
  2. It sounds like you have some budget to work with, so I'll recommend that you buy wiring specialities wire harness. It takes pretty much all the work out of the electrical part of the fuel injection system and gets you running quickly, easily, and with a known good harness with new wires and connectors. I also recommend that you buy his fuel injector sub harness and coil pack sub harness. Again, known, new good wiring is a great thing to have. That will cost about $550, I believe. That's what I did. Fuel lines - the sky is the limit on what you can do for your fuel system. I am not familiar with the fuel pump and controller you bought. Is that designed to be ran as a returnless system? It sounds that way since you say you bought an adjustable fuel pump controller. The stock rb setup and most builds I have read here use a return style fuel pressure regulator. I ran mine this way and used a stock style, nismo adjustable fpr (fuel pressure regulator). I ran new 3/8" hard lines for pressure and return. If you are going to use the stock fuel rail and side feed injectors, you have to come up with a way to go from 5/16" rubber fuel injection hose to 6an. This is harder than it sounds because there are few fittings that bridge these two sizes. I used these: http://fittingsandadapters.com/femjic37swiv.html This takes a 5/16" fuel injection hose barb to/from the stock fuel rail and gets you to 6an. Although I'm sure there are differences, an and jic fittings are compatible practical purposes. If you don't want to use any rubber fuel injection hose in your build, you should probably switch to a top feed fuel rail that is already set up for an fittings.
  3. Are you looking for a diagram of how / what fuel lines to run in your z (what year), info on the rb fuel injection electrical, or ?
  4. Second that with the online sellers. They all charge the going rate for motors, but never tell you about little things that are broken on it. And don't cover them in the slightest either. Or things that get damaged in shipping from them to you, caused by their incompetent packing. Would definitely never buy one internationally.
  5. It dies - loses power - sometimes driving down the road at a steady, say, 2000-2500 rpms, but will come back as long as I leave it in gear.
  6. I have an S1 Rb25det in my 280z, completed the swap in May and have put 2000 pretty much trouble-free miles on it since. Stock ecu, stock motor except for a Freddy intake, stock boost. I have the Wiring Specialties new harness with their new subharnesses for the injectors and coil packs. I have it running the stock tach and gauges except for a boost/vac gauge. Lately, sometimes going down the road - even not under load, just cruising - it just dies. If going down the road and left in gear, it will buck as it comes on and then dies again, and then eventually it usually stops this behavior and drives normal again. When it has done this and returned to "normal," after I park it and leave it idling, sometimes it will die while idling. It always seems to do this when it's been driving for a while and is at full operating temperature, and usually when it is at less than 1/3 of a tank of gas. My first suspect was the Walbro fuel pump running the stock tank / stock pickup in the tank. I thought this might be losing pressure as some people seem to report Walbros do - if you get a knockoff or bad one. Or just the stock marginally-baffled tank running the pickup dry. Today on the way home, it started doing this again going down the road with ~1/2 tank gas left, and then when I got it home I left it idle and watched the fuel pressure gauge. It did die, but the fuel pressure never dropped below 36psi on my permanently installed gauge. So at idle, no fuel slosh issues and no loss in fuel pressure, I have to rule out the fuel pump as the cause of the problem. If it dies idling, it will usually start right back up and run fine. Today, it died again and took a second try before it would stay idling. After that, it went back to idling nicely at 700 rpms (where I set the idle via the idle adjustment procedure). When it dies going down the road in gear, the tach doesn't drop off, it continues to read accurately. The tach is driven off the ECU tach output with a "pull up" light bulb to the stock 280z tach, as described by another hybridz member, which seems to work just fine. Ideas on what might cause this? I don't have a consult adapter to hook up, but I could get one off ebay if needed. If it was a component on the motor, what would be the likely culprits? CAS or igniter, possibly? Both of those are the original stock pieces that came on my motorset.
  7. I tried swapping out the transmission fluid for Amsoil MTG over the weekend, which is another gl-4 75w-90. For only 200 miles on the mt-90 it was sure dirty when I drained it. A deep black/brown color. I didn't get any bits and pieces on the drain plug magnet, which was a small relief. Initial impressions of the Amsoil are an improvement from where it was.
  8. Raw brokerage's website says they have them in stock, $3049
  9. Update - scratch that last post, it was just a case of shifting fast enough before the revs dropped. Like many others that seem to have the same problem, it is fine for fast or slow shifts, it only is notchy on "normal" shifts. Borrowed the 13mm square plug socket and will try to properly check the fluid level this weekend.
  10. Mt-90 has always been my go-to fluid for Nissan transmissions. That does kind of explain why the lightweight shockproof helps worn synchros if you think about it. On another note, I increased the length of my clutch master cylinder pushrod last night and took it for a test drive. The shift from 1st to 2nd was better than it had been previously. 2nd to 3rd was still so-so. Not terrible, but not exactly smooth either. Will get another drive on it and report back. Is there a such thing as having the clutch pedal pushrod adjusted too long? The clutch engages now in the top 1/3 range of the pedal, instead of at the very bottom. I did adjust the stop too so it still has the right amount of free play in the pedal.
  11. Are you running the lightweight shockproof straight, or mixed with mt 90 / another fluid? I had to fill my transmission through the shifter because the fill plug was fused in there something fierce. Put in 3.8 quarts of mt90. That should have been enough based on what I was able to find...? I'm trying to locate the correct square plug socket to properly remove the fill plug and check the level. I think ktc tools makes one, 13mm male square plug? A 1/2 drive ratchet was a little too small in the fill plug and slipped some, naturally dorking it up in the process...
  12. Looking for a 240-280z stock hood prop. Mine is missing and I removed the stock springs to make room for an intercooler. Doesn't need to be a show piece, just any old stock hood support.
  13. I'm running the dxd (south bend clutch) stage 2 clutch and pressure plate on the stock flywheel. Clutch seems to engage as soon as I start releasing the pedal. That's different than how the stock clutch on my old l28 setup was, which is the only thing I have to compare it to.
  14. Got my s1 Rb25 280z on the road finally Saturday. Still have some wiring to clean up and other odds and ends. What transmission fluid are you guys running in the RB 5spds? I put ~4 qts of Redline MT90 in this one, it seems mostly OK except for the occasional notchy / clunky shift into 2nd. A google search turned up that Redline MT90 is pretty commonly used in the RB manual transmissions. I know that was what my old z31 and the 280z transmission liked also. Is the occasional notchy shift into 2nd just something that these boxes do?
  15. This is the style of compressor bracket that came with my motor http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=380370609290&index=2&nav=SEARCH&nid=8581775855 http://smg.photobucket.com/user/74260zt/media/RB%20Tourqe%20Plate/Parts075-3_zpsda1e1795.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
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