majik16106

new pictures.. lol

I still think 500rwhp in this Z is more than you expect. if you want the "harshness". 300rwhp in these cars can turn 11s. thats what 500rwhp vettes run. ish depending on other mods. if you gear a 3.70 and 500rwhp with a 2jz, which is a 63ish mm turbo. its gonna punch the back out. slicks or not. you will be able to do 70mph burnouts on drag radials. pretty easy. i dont know what you mean by "track car". road racing? auto x? drag? cuz you wont be able to give it much gas out of a turn, or down most of a straight without going sideways considering you want normal decent driving conditions. tall order is more correct than you probably think. just giving you a heads up. Regardless, good luck with the project. sounds fun! toyota powered Zs are my fave obviously.

My hero. I wasnt going to attack everything wrong in this thread. but this does need to be addressed. the problem with 7m bottom ends is not the bearings, clevite does sell bearing with a deeper oil channel (read: Race version)which can help. The problem on 7ms, especially road raced ones, is oil starvation. there are several ways to fix this, anything ranging from boring out the pump to going dry-sump. the HG, i would suggest getting a proper machine shop to deck the block and put in MHG and arp studs, will save you a headache later no matter what route you decide to go and it aint that tough to do in the grand scheme of things. Second: Turbos. Everyone in this thread keeps kicking out t62, s653, blah blah blah blah. stop. Best way to talk about turbo sizing is by size, not name. sure some common ones might be ok, but 80% of the time someone who is not well versed in every companies offerings will have to look up each name to figure out what turbo is what. just a pet peeve of mine. sorry. So ill list by a common size. Every turbo has lots of things that can be changed, inducer/exducer wheels, etc. So ill list them by gen mm size which how companies usually break up their offerings. So, as far as suggestion, keep in mind what you want this car to do. Because some advice will be irrelevant. not to pick at anyone but people get all caught up in these arguments and start to stray from what it is YOU want and into general arguments about engines. so... If you want a daily driven 300whp car. - Go 7m. lots of low end grunt and a ct26 (stock turbo) with a .57 trim wheel upgrade will work GREAT. lots of spool. lots of torque. off the shelf parts without cross consulting, cheaper engine and build, easier wiring ( IE you can run the stock ECU if u want), super reliable. If you want an 800hp drag car - go 2jz with a 71mm or bigger turbo. if you have the money to build a 800rwhp car and race it, you can do this. do it. If you want to go road racing - if your heart isnt set on a 6cyl, do an SR. easy swap, awesome handling. if you are set on a 6 cyl and you are on a budget, go either 1j or 7m, which one? depends on your driving style. If you like winding it out and want to worry less about the back end sliding out then go 1jz with 57-63mm turbo. lots of spool. lots of revs and smoother boost in. if you like grunt and squat out of a corner, go 7m with same sized turbos mentioned about. When you get into 67mm and above, your starting to get into highway/drag racing for the most part, ESPECIALLY considering this is in a Z. if it was a supra a 67mm would be ok because of the extra weight.. but if you have never driven a 500rwhp 2500lb ish car.. its not easy, especially to do fast. My suggestion: dont get all caught up in the arguments and hype surrounding engines and cars and the crazy **** you see. Figure out what you want your car to do first, like exactly, then plan the build according. Once you figure out what you want you will know what to ignore and what to look for. just my .02

he used to post on these forums. The car was built as a magazine/shop project car. Guy who owns it now just has fun with it. Its from down under. I have the magazine articles on a Hd somewhere.

There is a lot of bad/ misleading information on this thread. I see a lot of stuff being thrown around here and a lot of it doesnt make sense, much less a good argument for why a 7m is better than a 1jz or vice versa. Id read some Supraforums threads. there were TONS of debates about these engines years ago. There are also a whole lot of people, on here as well as there, that like to talk about things they have never seen or touched. Keep in mind a lot of 1jz nay sayers have never owned one, same for 7m ,and then theres the guys who read some things, make up their minds, and have never owned or worked on either one. They form an opinion because they had a "friend" who did this and whatever. Before making this sort of decision, your going to want to find much better info than whats in this thread.. just my .02

cp is a brand. and for x beam.. pauter says this is an x beam.. http://www.maperformance.com/pauter-machine-x-beam-4340-connecting-rods.html?iorb=4764&utm_source=Yahoo&utm_medium=SSP&utm_campaign=BROI

I wouldnt say 100% all the time the turbo engine is the best bet JUST because it was built for a turbo. And of course every argument being made here inherently carries some assumptions. Can he source a backyard kit cheap? does he have the motor? did it come with it? is it 600hp, 400hp, or 1000hp? road racing or drag racing? thats how these arguments always break out, someone offers up some blanket statement that pisses some other guy off and the world lets loose with pricing breakdowns and my brother did this and I have an engine that works better and etc etc. The point is NOT that an sr is better than an l28et or that a KA is better than an SR, the point is.. The SR is better FOR HIM. or the L28et is better for him. and then we give our reasons. its ok to have a different opinion. Its like trying to choose a wife for a man, I think he should go with Cindy for this and you like Sarah for that.. well truth is if he could live two lives he may end up blissfully happy with both, so niether of us is wrong, we just choose based on different sets of criteria. its good to offer up those sets without arguing between us so that he can make a decision based on our insights. because of our insights were the same... then he wouldnt need both of our insights. So i could make arguments that the sr provides better weight than an l28et, which is free lots of things, the engine comes with better pistons, a better rod ratio for revving the piss out of it, the electronics to handle a 300hp set up with just a boost controller and safc/ power fc. and that the added torque you would have from a ka24 is mute compared what typically would be a much harder engine to modify and run at 300hp. that being said.. if i wanted a 500hp road racing car.. i go Ka because the extra displacement, i have to upgrade the sR anyways all around so might as well do it with an engine you can get pretty much for free with more displacement and the electronics dont matter since your pretty much doing SA anyway. oh wait.. you want a street car with 600hp, well go l28et. build it up 3.1 turbo stroker. the torque will be phenominal fun on the road. fast as hell, not too expensive in comparison to swapping in another turbo inline 6. etc etc.. see where im going?

agree'd. ive always said the best way to go is to look at it that way. what was it basically designed for in the first place? if you have a 6 foot 5 200lb man thats pure muscle, and a 5 foor 10 guy who is 200 lbs of pure muscle and neither one had any sports experience and you wanted one guy to be a football player and the other to play basketball... which do you put where? i know its a loose analogy but i think it gets the point across. some starting out points are just easier. that being said though, this theory is predicated on knowing what the "purpose" of the build is. it doesnt make any sense to say one is better than they other if you dont know what its going to be used for.. and exactly what parameters he has to work with, some of the variables may make the difference. integras arent the best thing for drag racing.. but they can go fast. muscle cars arent the best thing for road racing... but they can with enough time/money. BUt if you swap the two... your life is much easier.

There are better options than hunting an orc clutch. Duane's car has the new carbon clutch for the r154 and it works great. Sean at titan can get them. however i wouldnt throw 1000hp at any manual trans and call it a day. dont know how much u looked but almost all the 900+rwhp supras are built autos ie th400. 1000rwhp cars are a PAIN in the ass to drive manual.

ya guys.. hate to say it but relax. He's basically said its a show piece.. not an actual race car. its just for demonstrating what his shop can do as far as workmanship... and usually people dont beat up on cars that are show center pieces for thier work.

i know this is way late.. but 1jz's are still made in japanese cars. they are single turbo now with vvti. so a 94 model swap could easily be either. valve covers are different.. and.. on the valve covers it should be marked clear as day... 2500 or 3000.

TRUTH!

wow, i dont know how i never noticed this, guess theyre having fun. on some other forums you can write your own title. some pretty funny ones out there.

i may not speak for all of us, but i bet more than one. I want a set of wide zg flares that dont require a crap load of work to make fit. if the price is right, and the fit is ok.. ill buy whichever shows up first. i dont care whose kids im feeding, i want to fit my big ass rear wheels underneath my car and thats all i care about. there are plenty of threads where people offer more than one solution, no different here. "hey, where can i get a mount for X engine" and the thread will be filled with shop names and vendors. welcome to free market. i say no foul, someone just make these available.

Justin- put me down as well, i think you just made the decision ive been wrestling with for weeks. and please roll that badboy out into the driveway and take some pics. id love to see how that things sits from a little distance. im getting the same wheels.