jgkurz
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Posts posted by jgkurz
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Hi all,
I recently purchased new Suspension Techniques sway bars for my 77 280Z. The front bar is 1 1/8 inch part# 50100 and the rear is 7/8 inch part# 51080.
Here's the problem. When I mount up the rear bar it will not allow me bolt the damper block back on the the rear cross member. It appears as though the detent in the center of the bar was manufactured incorrectly. I believe it should be reversed from it's current position. If I mount the damper facing the rear it would probably work, but that's not the way it was orginally mounted.
The below pictures are exactly how it would appear in my car.
I find it hard to believe that ST made these bars incorrectly. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks!
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They're gone for sure.
There's a yard in Eugene that does Z's, but I forget the name. The owner seems to hang out at zcar.com
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The current transmission is a GM truck manual 4spd with a OD 4th gear. We thought about using the T56, but are not confident the 6th gear OD will hold the power. So far the GM truck trans has held up better than any other. I'd much rather use a T56 since it shifts much easier. Our trans options will grow significantly if we are able to use a 1:1 4th gear. Most transmissions in 1:1 don't use a cluster gear in 4th which is much stronger. Maybe we could go back to the T-5 if all we needed was 4th gear. So using a tall diff and a 1:1 trans would be ideal. Another problem is when you use the OD in the trans rather that a tall differential your driveline and pinion RPM increase. I believe, spinning the driveline and pinion at 11,000 RPM will greatly increase the chance of failure. The engine goes thought the 5th mile at around 7200 - 7500 RPM.
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John C, We are using the tallest possible tires right now. I don't think there is room for taller tires. Part of the problem is the car sits so low. I'm encouraged by the possibilty of using the C4 diff. We would probably just fabricate in the center section and still use the ZX suspension.
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Aaron, No problem on the 2.15 post. At least it got the thread started...
rags, Sorry, but the 3.15 R200 won't be for sale. Thanks for the link.
Regards
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Mike C got it right. This is for a 1980 280ZX L28 turbo I am going to take to Bonneville in 2004 or 2005 if all goes well. Yes I said 1980. The engine is obviously not original. The car belongs to a friend of mine who built it and raced it until 1990. The car has been in storage since that time. The car runs in the F/BGT class where the record was set in 1990 at 222mph by a Japanese team with a 300ZX Twin Turbo. I kind of wish it wasn't a Nissan...
Our car has gone 226mph with a home grown fuel injection that required too much attention while driving. I don't want to be driving at 200mph and have to mess with tuning the EFI. Basically, everything was a knob, switch or lever to manage the fuel mixture. I am in the process of refurbishing the engine, chassis and safety componants. My hope is that adding my Electromotive Tec3 to this car will get us a few more HP to get the record back. The other problem is we need a taller gear. The current setup uses a Chevy 4spd truck transmission with 4th being an overdrive. All Nissan transmissions broke, and I do mean all. Everything from the T-5 to the Datsun transmissions were used. Nothing would hold the power once the car was in overdrive. The truck transmission has held up better than any other setup. I'd rather be using a T-5 in 4th gear with a Corvette IRS diff. That way the driveline and pinion gear wouldn't have to spin at 11,000 rpms or more.
So back to the diff question. The Corvette diff looks promising. Has anyone done this swap?
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I have searched every forum that would contain this info and cannot find any reference to a 2.15 ratio.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thank you.
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Awesome. Thanks!!!
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Hi all,
I'm working on a Z project where I need a differential that has a taller gear than the current 3.15 R200. I've seen a lot of posts on Corvette and R230 IRS diffs, but they all seem to have ratio's in the 3.5 - 3.7 range.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
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The 84 VG30ET automatic will bolt up if you use your L28 bellhousing. It's a 10 minute swap with both tranny's on a bench.
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Correction.... The shifter in the picture is a B&M Ripper Pro shifter.
Summit Racing p/n BMM-45070
I looked at the Pro 5.0, but it didn't look like it had as many adjustments as the B&M. I could be wrong since it was just a visual assessment.
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It's the B&M Pro Ripper shifter for the 80's Mustang T-5. I think they also make a T-56 version. Summit and Jeg's sell it, but you'll have to do a search.
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Make sure you get the 84 300ZXT trans. I believe Nissan started using a lockup convertor in the 85 model.
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I finally got this beast installed. The car should be running in early Sept. I hope it will be worth the $$$. It feels great so far.
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The 84 300ZXT 4spd auto trans bolts directly to the L28 bell housing and it was a non-lockup 4th gear. The whole conversion was fairly easy with the exception of the rear trans mount. I am horrible at fabricating so making a decent mount would probably be easier for more experienced welders or metal workers.
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All, Here's what the Turbonetics dual port wastegate look like when it's mounted to the original L28ET mount. I had to add a coupler to get the rod to reach the flapper hinge.
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Nice run! 108.5 MPH indicates you were probably at about 300 crank HP, give or take a few HP. I definatley see 12's in your future. Getting your 60ft down with different tires and/or an LSD would do the trick. I too am in search of the 12's this summer.
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I am positive that the Explorer had the 5.0L V8 from 96 - 01. I wish it was the 4.6 or 5.4. The 02 and newer Explorer's have the 4.6.
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The Ford Explorer had the 5.0L V8 from 96 to 01. Personally I tow my Z with my 2001 V8 Eddie Bauer Explorer. That low lift cam mentioned above has decent low end torque and gets me 21.5 MPG on the freeway. Not bad for a pushrod V8.
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Check out the new Olympus C-750 with 10X optical zoom. WOW!
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Speeder, Were you able to use rods longer than 133mm? Personally I wish I could have put in some longer rods and maybe designed more static compression then my 7.6:1. Sounds like you'll be running by the end of the summer.
I'm on the same schedule with my upgrades. I'll cross my fingers for you.Regards,
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Hey Speeder, What's the deal with sectioning your struts. Is this something I might want to consider? I just bought new Tokico's. Is it too late for me?
Thanks.
P.S. How's the 3.0 liter coming?
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I am currently building my own "O" ring fuel rail using the standard billet rail you can get from Electomotive or Arizona Speed and Marine. The rail usually runs about $12.00 per foot. You will need to either weld or thread fittings on the end of the rail for hoses and the fuel pressure regulator. I'm using a Paxton universal type and screwing it directly to the end of the rail. It looks just like the Aeromotive style. Next you will need to drill and ream the rail to fit the "O" ring injectors. The key here is to get the injector spacing correct when drilling the rail. Once the drilling is complete you will need to use a reamer to clean up the surface so the rings don't leak. The final hole should be about .020 smaller than the diameter of the o-ring. This is according SDS's tech notes. For mounting the rail I'm bending some aluminum strips then welding to the rail. I am using the same three mounting points as the stock rail. To go from a completely stock L28ET rail and injectors to the new rail, rebuilt 450cc injectors, New FPR, New fuel filter, AN fittings and hose cost me about $500.00. I'm using DSM style injectors with pintle caps self modified for my Datsun intake. The next step will be to go to 680cc injectors when I want to start making big HP.
http://store.yahoo.com/azspeed/fuinco1.html
Our car has gone 226mph with a home grown fuel injection that required too much attention while driving. I don't want to be driving at 200mph and have to mess with tuning the EFI. Basically, everything was a knob, switch or lever to manage the fuel mixture. I am in the process of refurbishing the engine, chassis and safety componants. My hope is that adding my Electromotive Tec3 to this car will get us a few more HP to get the record back. 
Problems with Suspension Techniques Sway Bars?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
My experience is that leaving the damper off the car causes the differential noise to resonate throughout the car. Because the Z is inherently noisy to begin with I am going try an keep it on the car so it doesn't get worse. I will take it off as a last resort. Thanks for the reply.
Regards,