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jgkurz

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Posts posted by jgkurz

  1. I could have bought (2) LT1's for the cost of my turbo L28 3.0Liter. This is not an investment forum. HybridZ is about building a personalized and hopefully powerful Z car. Anyone who doesn't respect this forums' diverse and unique ideas can find another place to post. :fmad:

  2. To help boost creep, I had my internal wastegate hole bored out as far as functionally possible. I then ordered up a custom stainless steel lawnmower valve that happened to have a similar stem diameter and a larger valve diameter. This valve was used to replace the original flapper valve. I cut the stem to the proper length then had it welded up so that the pivot lash would seal the opening yet not catch on the edge of the hole. It works better than stock, but I still wish I had a nice Tial external wastegate.

  3. Not yet....the pig is still a pig.

     

    I recently got a promotion at work and decided to do some major upgrades. The car is on jackstands now, but should be complete in late July. Darn 12 hour work days!!!

     

    Here's a list of major mods I will have completed before hitting the dyno this summer. I also have a new fuel rail in the works, but until this is done I will only be running 36psi fuel pressure. Hopefully it will be complete this fall some time. Until then I'll probably only put down around 300 RWHP

     

    New Isky cam

    Large NPR IC with 2.5 inlet pipes and 3" outlet

    Dual electric fans

    Susp Techniques Sway bars

    Tokico Illuminas

    Tension rod kit

    Bump steer spacers

    Quick ratio steering arms

    3.7 LSD

    T-5 Trans with B&M shifter

    Spec 6-puck sprung clutch

    Aluminum flywheel

    Dual port wastegate actuator

    450cc injectors

    Walbro 255lph pump

  4. Here's a post of mine after I installed my ISKY cam......

     

    This email is a little premature as I've not been on the dyno yet, but I wanted to pass on my initial impressions. I went from a stock 82 turbo cam to an Isky L490/L480. First thing I noticed was the idle was a little rougher. This was expected. I actually like the sound of a cam with lope as long as the idle is stable. I set my idle to 750 rpm without much problem. A/F at idle is 14.7, but I had to retard my initial timing from the stock 20 degrees btdc to 10 before I could get it that lean. The timing change was not due to the cam change, but only to prove that the idle could be set to stoich with the new cam. My idle vacuum went from 19.5 "hg to 14.5 "hg. The car is easy to drive in normal stop and go city traffic. There is no noticable difference between the old cam and the new cam in this area. When I mildly accelerate it feels like a bit of low to midrange power is down. When put the hammer down it pulls smoothly and flat to 7000 RPMs. The power is definately improved above 4000 rpms. I'm sure it would go higher than 7K, but I'll wait for the dyno to tell me where my peak power is before I rev any higher. The old cam pulled to 5000-5500 then fell off a cliff. The new cam seems to have a very flat torque curve. Peak power well above the old cam.
  5. What's your initial timing set at? I had a similar problem until I retarded my initial timing to around 15btdc. Your car may be different, but once I did this I could run in closed loop without hunting.

  6. Thanks for your thoughts Scottie. Regarding the Nissan Trans over the T-5. Is it that you believe the T-5 has little or no strength advantage over the Nissan unit therefore the changeover is not necessarily worth the trouble?

     

    I'm currently running the Nissan trans with Redline MTL and haven't had any problems. The only reason I'm changing over to a T-5 is to have additional strength and I like the lower 1st gear. I like to drag race on occasion and thought this would help. I've also heard speculation that the T-5 is a quieter and smoother shifting trans. Ultimately my car should do a dyno proven 340RWHP.

     

    Thanks!! :hail:

  7. Per K&N the formula for air filter size is:

     

    A=CIDxRPM/25' date='500

     

    A= air filter area

    CID= cubic inch displacement

    RPM=max engine revolutions per minute

    [/quote']

     

    Let's plug some real numbers into the formula. Let me apologize in advance for not remembering my math skills. I'm sure this answer will be obvious to some of you on this forum.

     

    CID = 183

    Max RPM = 7000

     

    50.24=183x7000/25,500

     

    I have a K&N part# RF-1039 which has a 6" long round tapered element.

     

    How do I compare the 50.24 to this element?

  8. Hi all, I was reading a post earlier today on found out that my planned T-5 install will probably not go as planned.... :x

     

    I have a Scottie downpipe that has worked and fit flawlessly with my Datsun trans. It now looks like I will have to do some grinding on the T-5 transmission and fabricate some kind of spacer to make the downpipe fit.

     

    Can anyone give me more details on this problem? I'd rather not have a new downpipe built if I don't have to.

     

    Thanks!!!!

  9. Hi all, I did a search on this subject, but found nothing definitive.

     

    I'm trying to determine if my stock 77 slave cylinder is the same used on the 83 280ZX Turbo "Borg-Warner" T-5 5spd.

     

    Do I need the 83 turbo slave assembly to put the T-5 in my 77?

  10. rags, Great news! :cheers: One thing you might want to do is change your oil. The excess fuel probably diluted your oil a bit.

     

    Can you send me the name of the forums that discuss Electromotive?

     

     

    Thanks much!!!

  11. I just purchased new struts and sway bars for my 77z. I am wondering if the addition of these parts plus lowering springs will cause my camber to change outside of street specs? I'd rather not spend the money on camber adjusters right now if I don't have to. On the other hand I don't want to deal with strange steering geomerty or extreme tire wear.

     

    Anyone have an opinion on this?

     

     

    Thanks,

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