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jgkurz

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Posts posted by jgkurz

  1. tickwon, The NGK BPR7ES-11 is a colder plug than the BPR6ES-11. I have always been told that a high boost Z will like colder plugs not hotter.

     

    As for ordering, I assume I could just special order from my local car parts store.

     

    Thanks for the feedback on the Iridium's. Anyone else?

  2. You need to measure from the pinion flange on the diff to the center of the front ujoint. By center I don't mean the middle of the cross, but the center of the end caps. Make sure you pull the yoke out of the trans 3/4" before measuring.

     

    Rumor has it that about an 1" needs to be cut of the T-5 driveline to fit in an S30 car. You should measure to be sure.

  3. Hypothetically if peak torque was at 4500RPM and peak HP was at 6500RPM where should you shift? I've also had difficulty understanding this question when transmission gear ratios are factored in.

     

    Typically when drag racing I shift a couple hundred RPM above my peak HP so it drops back into the powerband.

  4. Well as it turns out my new driveline isn't what I expected. When I took it in they said they could find a T-5 yoke and Neapco flange that would work with the Spicer 1310 u-joints. WRONG.... What I ended up with was a driveline with new yoke and new Neapco flange that matches my larger R200 LSD pinion flange. They had to use Nissan style u-joints. The total cost was 279.64. Ugggg!! Oh well. I doubt if I'd ever break it.

  5. JeffP, you are correct about the pinion flange u-joint being able to use a spicer 1310. That's what I am going to use on the rear u-joint. My problem right now is that my driveline shop can't find a yoke for my Datsun T-5 that will support the Spicer 1310. For now it looks like I'll be running a 1310 on the back and a Nissan on the front.

  6. Hi all, I recently called Kevin at Majestic Turbo to discuss upgrading my compressor wheel to a 60-1. He's a heck of nice guy and gave me a decent price for the upgrade. He suggested I also upgrade to their compressor wheel "bullet" nut. This is a aerodynamic nut that secures the compressor wheel to the shaft. Kevin said this improves flow.

     

    Is anyone using this bullet nut? Do you think it's worth the expense?

  7. Rick, For me the spacer doesn't present a problem for my IC but for my Scottie downpipe. If I move the turbo out 1/4 inch then I will probably have interference problems in the transmission tunnel. My T-5 is going in now so I'll be able to check the fit soon.

     

    Who did the custom work on your turbo?

  8. Hi folks, I have always assumed that my JWT Sport 400 used a .60 A/R compressor housing. After closer inspection I noticed mine is a .50 A/R.

     

    Is that the size on your JWT turbo also? Assuming the larger .60 A/R would increase the external size of the housing I don't know how it would fit on the L28ET without a spacer. I currently have 1/8" clearance from my exhaust manifold.

     

    Thanks,

  9. Hi all,

    After talking with some folks and reading this forum it seems that the T04B 60-1 wheel would be a better fit for my car. I've heard it's possible, even suggested that the 60-1 wheel be installed in a T04E housing. My turbine is a stage 5/10 blade .63 T3. Can I get a response from people who have done this upgrade? I'm looking for feedback on driving impressions and recomendations for a turbo shop that's done this conversion.

     

    Thanks,

  10. Coincidentally, today I had my local shop start on my custom driveline. To avoid the "explosion" as you say I am using non-greasable Brute Force or Spicer u-joints. The diff flange is the larger 300ZX version. The whole thing is costing me 325.00. :shock: but I don't think I'll ever break it. Some day I hope to put down 400RWHP while visiting the dragstrip. :D

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