Gixxer Squid

Anyone?

I will ask the tuner for the data, I am sure he has it. I am unsure of firmware being used and YES I have a wideband.I have owned the car for 1 1/2 years and it been in the shop all but two of these months. I bought someone elses mess and promises of what was SUPPOSED to be under the hood....won't bore u with details but evryone reading has certainly been where I am which is trying to fix the bugs. May just start all over rather than throwing good money after bad...

Numbers? 400+ at wheels, a reliable weekend and track "whore" car. TWO valve seats fell out of head, #4 intake first, fixed car, drove it two weeks, put it on dyno to tune it since it was running 8-9 AFR's in boost, tuner has it in the 12.2-12.6 range based on dyno sheet I was given. A and #6 intake retainer decided to fall out. Upgraded steel retainers too so SOMETHING is F'ing things up. I am not a mechanic and shop is doing the work so I am out $$$$$$$$$$$ money and car F'd again. I am relying on the tuner to get the timing right. Would the tuner who data logged this have the "timing stats" on the laptop??? I have not asked for them?! Thanks, J

Ok, lets reprase, how low is to low on compression? Engine management system is Electromotive tech3R. Meth comes on at 6psi partial graduating to full spray at 15 psi and above. I don't know what the timing was set out, obviously its pretty darn critical even though you have other bells and whistles like in Bo's case.

What is the highest/safest CR I can run with a turbo engine? I would like to build something in the 9.1 to 1 or 9.5 to 1 range. Current 8.1 is forcing me to run to high a boost to get power numbers I want which keeps blowing engines. I have intercooler, water/meth kit for keeping combustion temps down. Suggestions and reasons against requested? James

Thanks. I may as well install an EGT during my rebuild as well. I meant boost controller. The guy doing the tuning said my boost controller was not good and the possible result of my boost creep. Hit hard to 18 and then took another 4-5 seconds to get to 20 psi which is what I had it currently set at. I saw some elaborate boost controllers in the $500 range but that seems a bit steep. Thanks for clarifications, James

Glad you will get your car up and running soon. I am back to the drawing board. Maybe I need a new head. Do you have an EGT in each exhuast outlet? Do you have a gauge to measure these or did the dyno you used have one? Whose EGT probe did you use, where did you tap into it, you have a picture? I think I am going to add one this time around to monitor things. I am running 51%meth and 49% water mixture so I actually have the benefit of the octane and the cooling effect of water, maybe I did not make myself to clear, sorry. Whose boost control gauge are you using? James

THANKS. i had not seen this link before. I think my car has EVERY one of those problems. Still have not figured out #3 on the right side of the fuse box and I don't drive at night either for this reason. I removed all four side markers and welded over for a clean look. I just unplugged the connectors and wrapped electrical tape around them so the solution given would not apply to me, I have to many other issues at the present and will work on that one later, LOL GS

Just read this post and sorry to hear about your engine issues. As you may know I just got my car back after detonation and dropped #4 valve seat. Just spent $3200 for all work, larger fuel lines, installation of meth kit, larger turbo cam shaft and some other upgrades. Put it on Dyno after having it one week to get AFR right, blew it UP! Have not pulled head yet but know I dropped another retainer on the intake side #6. as the lash pad fell off when I took the valve cover off. The whole purpose of the meth was to cool things to run higher boost. Did not even have the chance to turn boost up. Not to hijack Bo's thread but some interesting points are brought up. 1. That headgasket could have been part of the problem, thats the same one I had before I had the latest rebuild. 2. Top of your pistons were pretty black, the meth should have kept the carbon deposits pretty darn clean should it not. I have been toying with idea of doing a 3.2 turbo stroker, after reading this thread and the potential loss of HP 175+, obviously I would be going in the wrong direction it seems. There is no turning away from turbo though. Is is possible to build to even build a RELIABLE inline 6 to run at 450 hp give or take at 12-14 psi or so. I had the car set at 20 psi. meth came on at 6 psi to full spray at 15 psi. Considering possibly adding EGT sensors to #2 and #5 during rebuild. Comments. Just seems to me that once you go over 15-18 psi boost that you better have an endless supply of $$$. I think it rather odd to drop 2 new steel retainers on a brandnew engine. Although head gasket and everything held up this time I cant help but think that the sonic waves from detonation is screwing up my retainers causing them to drop. WB sensor though just does not show the temp inside the combustion chambers. Almost kicking myself for not throwing the 383 stroker motor I was originally going to put in. Wanted to keep with the inline 6 originality theme. Confused and frustrated beyond belief. Also: boost hit 18 psi quickly but creeped up to 20 psi in 2-3 seconds, think boost controller needs to be upgraded, suggestions?

Thumbed through numerous threads. Loads of information but no real cure so to speak. Seal this , seal that, hatch, gromets, etc, etc. I drove with the windows down today in 90 degree heat for 45 minutes and have had a headache all doggone day. Can't deal anymore. I saw a few suggestions and wanted to see if anyone used these and worked 100%. 1. Change tip on end of exhaust point sideways rather than out below hatch. 2. Divert exhaust comming out of sides before or after doors similiar to the shelby cobra's. I don't really feel like dealing with all the hits and misses of looking for this or looking for that. This seems like the easiest and most viable option if it would work. Pictures of install would be appreciated as well to take to a muffler shop. GS

Thanks, pulled the louvers off the back and had her tinted at 35% all the way around including driver, passenger AND windshield this afternoon. As soon as I can save some more money if I don't blow her up, this is the color I want to have her painted with all the chrome powder coated black. http://stb.msn.com/i/C4/444B406094ACB48ACF79B4338C7D5.jpg Went against a new M3 with a Dinan emblem on back today and she pulled on him, not by much I hate to say, YET, but she still pulled him. Gotta love the 2600 lb car, its all about HP to weight ratio...........

I may not be hitting full 20+ for certain in first or second with the wheel spin, I am usually hanging on to the wheel and can't really look at the psi gauge and who knows how reliable it really is. I am actually running 51% h20 and 49% meth, the mixture that snow performance advises. I purchased there additional "fail safe" add ons for extra protection as well, although if everything failed, I would be screwed. I have a tenative appointment for tomorrow if the dyno is available. I guess I am going to be relying on the tuner to get it right. While he has experience in tuning for the turbo, I don't beleive he has ever tuned with meth injection so it may be a crap shoot. Any words of wisdom for the tuner and I would greatly pass it on if you read this before tomorrow afternoon. I will pm you my #. James

The car is going to be set up for track days, not sure how the Mickey Thompson's would work on the track. BTW, If your ever in the bay area I would love to utilize your master tuning skillz !!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the props Woldson. Its a love process as all "Z" enthusiasts can tell you. Here's a pix with the Carbon Fiber hood.

Car finally done, info here if you want it. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1044191#post1044191

oh, did not end up running the copper head gasket either so no feedback there because it would have dropped the compression ratio to 7.5 to 1 and the engine builder said it was to low and would not do it. I guess its currently at 8.1 to 1, so I am told. J

Thanks for opinions and suggestions from all of you. Finally got the car back and running. The deeper you get in the the more $$$ this darn hobby cost. I ended up running Meth with safe injection and all the bells and whistles. E85 still is not available in my area and tired of waiting. I had larger intake/exhaust put in, some additional porting around these and put a large 520 duration turbo cam put in. We had to run new stainless steel fuel line and return cause the stock did not cut it. Have not had time to dyno it but have a AFR meter and in boost it drops below 8-1 so there is definately some more power to be had once it gets tuned right. Its set at 20 psi right now and will probably tune it to 24-25 range. Meth starts at 8 psi and progesses till 15 psi which is then 100% spray. The problem I am having now is that the back end breaks loose if I fart to easy in 1st and 2nd gear, plus I don't think it can be all that good for the turbo either ?? It would be nice to somehow be able to limit first and second to 15 psi and then 25+ psi 3rd gear on. Any suggestions for this? Again, running Electromotice tech3r. J

Thanks for your thoughts. I think there is an added benefit to the water but you brought up something that I had already thought of, maybe a 75% methanol /25% water rather than a 50/50. I supposed it would be easy enough to mix in the garage next to the pilot light of the hot water heater, LOL (joke). Any idea of comparison gains of 100% alcohol to 50/50 mix. If its minimal I would rather go 50/50, If its a big difference than 100% would be the route I would want to go. You have any weblinks to for me to research on? James

Grumpy, Going to be installing a methanol injection on my car this next month(Z). I have been reading conflicting information on whether I should run 100% methanol or a 50.50 mixture water/methanol combination. Here are the cons from SP: • Safety: Pure methanol is easy to ignite and burns with an almost invisible flame. • Performance: Water absorbs twice as much heat as methanol in the intake and inside the combustion chamber. Water cannot be flash-ignited, so has what is almost an infinite octane number. In the government studies for WWII piston-powered aircraft, 50/50 water-methanol was found to be the best fluid to use for auxiliary fluid injection. • Tuning and Engine reliability: Injecting 50/50 water-methanol will prevent over-injection. If too much is injected, it will quench the flame front and the engine will bog and lose power. If too much straight methanol is injected, this will not happen, as methanol is very forgiving of rich mixtures. This could instead lead to explosive backfires, cylinder wash, etc. which will not happen when 50% or more water is in the mixture. What are your thoughts concerning this? I am looking from a performance and somewhat longevity standpoint? My car is currently turbo-charged with air cooler(for street). Also, from a performance standpoint, would you be getting that much additional horsepower by running pure methanol instead of the mix or would it be negligible say not <5% or less? Thanks, J

I am waiting to get her running again. Originally E85 was going to be my choice but after talking to Pearson, there E85 station is going to be delayed for who knows how long. I am probably going to go Bo's route now and just do the meth injection. When I get it going I will dial down the boost to 12 from the current setting of18 psi on california 91 ocatne crap till I get it tuned properly. Great Advice. The engine does have about 450 miles on it already though except I changed the cam profile and did some additional clean up by unshrouding the valves and had it on a flow bench.

No, its not o ringed. In talking with the Morty, he says its not necessary with these head gaskets. My instructions for installing is to heat the gasket with a torch till anadized red and scrub excess residue off and then spray with a gasket sealer that has copper in it...Wait one hour before torquing to specs. He seemed fairly knowledgable, you could give him a call. We will see how it turns out:shock:

I had a 2.5 mm copper head gastket made from copperworks. It cost $265.00. I am having it installed next week. I am currently running 18psi boost with more soon to come once I get things dialed in. http://www.headgasket.com/faq.html Morty made mine in about 1 1/2 weeks. Guess I will be the Guinni Pig on this one. I had a 88mm made, I think he can make anything. I am rather anxious and hoping it works out. I had a felt gasket in there before and half the water holes where covered up. I had to have two addtional holes on the copper head gasket opened up. Look at the top picture and the head gasket on the bottom. Why would the felt gasket have all the water holes covered up on the spark plug side of the block???????

No more than 3/4-1" on both sides

Pix of wheels from Rudypoochris's hard ass work for all of us and new carbon fiber flares from the group by with 280Zforce (Justin) Just what the DR ordered. 17.9.5 and 17x9 Flat black, pick up in Hayward directly from Kim. 245/45/17 Advan S4's Luckily I was added fender flares anyhow because the 17" rims with tires rubbed REAL bad. The back bottomed out and hit the fender and I could not turn the front wheels without it scraping on the airdam. I am sure others have probably already experienced this. Carbon flares and shaving the airdam in the corners solved this. This bitch looks B A D A S S !!! Props to you Rudy