rvannly

Awesome guys, thanks for sharing. I always try to go local so I can have a place to go to for future jobs, but it looks like Godzilla Raceworks might be the most econimical.

Hi all, I'm looking to swap bellhousings for the Ka24de transmission here and was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for a machine shop in socal that has done the conversion. Thanks

I am in the same boat in terms of long term projects. In over ten years, I've had 4 240z's and only have been able to drive one of them around the block a few times. Although, I am very close to getting my latest and only 240z running this summer finally. For the EDIS 6 module, I usually get them from the v6 Mustang. The Vr sensor can be from the same car or Escorts and Taurus. The edis module will only work with vr sensors so no BMW hall sensors here. The coilpack can be from any of the v6's as they're essentially the same. Stick to these coil packs because their dwell times are documented and matches the module so when the time comes you will know what to enter into Turnerstudio. The trigger wheel can also be from the same car or a new wheel from DiyAutotune. Whenever you use the EDIS module, you will want to keep all of the ford components because that's what they were designed for. I have been successful in running motorcycle coil on plugs with the edis module, but never had the car long enough to determine its long term use. Looks cool but that was about it. With Megasquirt you will definitly be able to remove the afm as the ecu has a built in MAP sensor. There's a lot to read and learn, but for me at least, this is part of the fun.

I've used megasquirt since before the ms1. Megasquirted over 15 cars and my advice is to go EDIS 6 MS2. Rock solid tach signal and easy instructions. Ms2 because its cheap and the processor is fast enough for basic setups. Only thing is getting the 36-1 trigger wheel adapted to the crank pulley. If you want to run the turbo dizzy, it is almost a must to get the drop-in DIYAutotune trigger wheel (out of stock right now, was told they are redesigning and need beta testers with unclear time of release). Ive used it a bunch on KA's and an SR20. It will give you the cleanest signal with options like different coils and eliminate the stock coil and wires. As far as batch or sequential, batch is fine and doesn't care if you have edis or turbo dizzy. The biggest tip and biggest hurdle with MS or any ecu is getting a clean tach/rpm signal. I tried vr sensors and never got good enough results, but had major success with hall sensors(BMW) or optical sensors (Nissan). Just remember this, the tach signal the ecu needs is the most important signal period. The learning curve is huge for the build it yourself kits. If you have a buddy that has experience with megasquirt and can actually help in person I would make him/her your best buddy quick. There's a lot of info out there, but boy is there a lot and trying to get help via emails or message boards is time consuming and not efficient. This is not a weekend project and expect maybe months or more of downtime.

Jmortensen, thanks for the link I missed that one. So much info. looks like I'll be changing the design.

Ohhh I see, great idea guys. Thanks for all of the input.

Neverdone, that's a good idea. Easy to implement tube80z, I'm not following

Hey guys, I am in the process of building a rear control arm. Did a bunch of research and planning, but have hit a snag. It pertains to the sway bar mounting point. I've built a jig so I can replicate another arm for each side and have been slowly building. If you look at the picture, the hole for the sway bar bushings (bolt that's circled in red) interferes with the threaded part of the spherical ends. In this photo, the rod end is fully contracted and since the jig is built around a stock arm, I won't be able to adjust for positive camber. I'd only be able to extend the spindle/wheel outward so I'm thinking of moving that hole in towards the diff. I still need to make the plate that connects the two bars so that's not shown. It will resemble the shape of the OEM arm. Right now I think I have two options: run no rear sway bar or move the mounting hole inward towards the diff and make a new sway bar end link that's offset. How are people running sway bars on the T3 arms? How much negative camber do you get? The T3 arms look like there is barely any room also.

I've done many sr20det swaps in the past and recently did an sr20det swap into a AE86 Corolla. If you want to save some money try looking for a stock harness and use that to make a standalone harness. All the info is on the net. I'd look at what the 240sx guys have to do and then get the wiring diagrams to fill in the rest for the chassis side.

Update: Got the unit installed and working. Pedal feel felt stiff and short, but I haven't felt what the stock pedal feels like in a long time so I can't tell if its better or not. As I was getting ready for a test drive, I noticed that while trying to put the window washer reservoir back in its place the master sticks out just a little too much. After the test drive, all was well. I really wanted the reservoir to go back in its place so luckily I was given a new OEM clutch slave and installed it. To my surprise,with the OEM unit the pedal feel was about half that of the Wilwood. Almost too soft. So the take away, I wouldn't go with this Wilwood 7/8 for the clutch.

Going through old threads I found it difficult to find more info on the hydraulic aspect of the Wilwood 7/8 clutch master install. With the advise from an old post on here by one of our other members, I ordered the Wilwood 260-3376 kit. Towards the end he said that most people tap the outlet for a -3an fitting. I didn't want to go out and buy a tap so I did a lot of googling of drawings and came up with a method to attach the stock lines to the master without much work and modification. There are two methods. One is cheap and the other is cheaper. Method 1 (cheapest): Part required is the brakequip bq50. This is a fitting adapter that will allow the connection of the OEM 10mm x 1.0 Inverted flare to adapt to the 3/8-24 Wilwood outlet. I went to a local line shop and tried this fitting out. It will work. The one in the picture has an inverted flare end to it but with the crush washer that came in the Wilwood kit, it will theoretically seal. This fitting is expremely cheap online <$4 not including shipping. I didn't go this route because for some odd reason I just don't want to bend the OEM hardline to match the Wilwood's outlet angle (90 Degrees off). Method 2, the method I will be using: Parts: 1 qty Brakequip - BQ61 1 qty Brakequip - BQ8093 2 qty Brakequip - BQ3858 Here you can see it's pretty self explanatory. This method keeps the fitting facing in the correct angle, just a little shift forward towards the front of the car. I will report back after I install the master, but if anyone has any objections to this please let me know. I couldn't find exact parts when I first started my research so I hope this will help future readers.

Did you set the correct com port?

congrats! I know the feeling, enjoy

I second this, I'd just change your dwell settings to dwell control and use the values above.

I'm assuming the VB's burned out because of the dwell settings. Will it be ok to run the same settings, that made the VB's burn out, with the Bip3373?