jeromio

I think you do have to have a longer driveshaft, IF your car is what, pre-72? I had thought that the set-back diff thing was a difference between R200 and R180, but someone corrected me recently. The diffs were mounted farther back, starting in 72. SO if you have a 70 or 71 240, then when you switch to the R200 and the R200 mustache bar (and curved rear transverse crosspiece), then your driveshaft will have to be longer. The key is that curved rear piece, the one that joins the rear arms and caps off the rear arm bushings. If you already have that, then your diveshaft length is fine.

I have a 4.11 R200 from an 85 200sx turbo in my car. I also have CV half shafts from a 83 280ZX turbo. Everything fits in there just as it should. Nothing special about it whatsoever. The unit is shifted over towards the driver's side, just like the 3.54 R200 I have from a 75 280Z. Therefore the driver's side shaft is slightly shorter than the passenger side. The shafts, on both sides, slide in to a certain point and then stop. They then have to be "jerked" into place that final bit, and they lock in there. I guess what I'm saying is, unless I'm not understanding some part of what you're saying, that my experience refutes your claim . [ September 17, 2001: Message edited by: jeromio ]

Are they planning a "Steer by wire" system? That motor has some kind of bulky thing - a bulge in the lower part of the block, directly over the rack input shaft. The shaft would have to go directly back, then up, then over. Yikes. Woulda been alot easier in a RHD car. They've definately worked over those framer rails. Didja see in that bottom pic where there's a turbo on the driver's side? I guess the frame rails were cut up to make room for turbo plumbing? Twin turbo 32 valve V8 Z car. Madness I tells ya.

No one locally has a mandrel bender though.

So, I'm rounding out my list of "things to deplete money from my bank account" and I only have a few items left. Chief among these is the exhaust system. My plan is to run 2 1/4 inch pipe from each collector and Y them together into a 3 inch. I'm therefore going to need some 2 1/4 and 3 inch J (or U) bends. I had bought some nice 16ga tubing from someplace loooong ago to make my truck headers. I <i>think</i> it was S&S. Seems like I paid around $3 for each 2" J. Looking back at S&S and at Summit and some other sources (Headers by Ed, Spintech, etc.), I'm floored by the prices for mandrel bends. $20-$35 each!? I'm pouring over the sema.org website right now trying to find sources. But, has anyone found a good source of round, mandrel bent J tubes?

I tried to be "good" with the second stub and grind off the hammered tabs before removing the nut. It's tough because it's hard to grind only the nut. This was also with the entire assembly off the car. The first stub I just hit with the impact wrench. Didn't even think much of it. The threads didn't seem very damaged. I was gonna hit them with this thread file that I have (great tool BTW). But, it didn't seem to need any touching up. So, I guess I would concur with Ross - just take the nuts off. I used the lock nuts that came with the ZXT shafts and threw the 240Z nuts in the trash. Definately replace the bearings if you're removing the stub axles. I'd get them from Ross since he seems to be able to get them cheap. I think I paid $120 for the set. I put the actual figure in a post here somewhere. Not exactly sure, but they were high. The stubs themselves were tricky to remove because the bearings were keeping them in place. I put a big socket on the end of the stub and whacked the crap out of it. The old outer bearings were hard to get off the stubs too. It wasn't too bad. Or at least, it's all relative. I did this work as a subset of the much larger project of redoing the rear suspension, so, it's hard to say how many actual hours were devoted to the stubs/bearings. Say, how did you replace the rear studs without removing the stub axles ? Seems like you switched to 5 lug, right?

Already ordered? Bummer. The motor mount locations are farther back on the LS1 than on the "standard", 350 Chevy. Farther back by about 2 inches (I think). LoneStar1 used the JTR technique, but his plates were longer and he anchored them to the strut rod mounts on the frame for stability. Too far back for the plates to work on their own. He then had some thick metal coming welded orthagonally to the plates with holes drilled to meet up with the LS1 bolt thru mount. Do a search on the Chevy forum for LS1. For my LS1, I'll be modifying the crossmember, creating 2 extra, angled "legs" that will form a K and meet up with the frame at the strut rod mounts. I'll be removing the standard Datsun motor mount towers and making my own to meet up with the stock LS1 motor mounts. These will be mounted on the cross member extensions.

If you're starting from scratch (as in, choosing a car and a powerplant), you gotta consider the cheapest source of go-power: less weight. That 500hp Supra was no doubt crazy fast. But those things are heavy. You wouldn't need nearly as much power from a 3rd gen Rx7 to duplicate that Supra's performance (esp. with the lighter rotary), and you'd need even less power in a 240 (3500 > 3000 > 2500). As to the blown LS1 idea, ATI has apparently just recently come out with an LS1 package and there's at least one guy on that forum who is very happy with it. He's up in the mountains, so it's difficult to draw HP comparisons, but it was alot more power. There are alot of "free" mods for the LS1 in the FBody to remove factory restrictions. But it's a tight fit in that car. As far as I have read, the Z06, esp the 2002 version, represents sort of a culmination of tuner style upgrades - hollow valves, ported heads, different intake, significantly revised exhaust, optimized fuel maps. I can't see anyone wringing any more power out of that motor, NA, short of boring and stroking. But yes, there are single, double turbo and blower kits available. The ECU on the LS1 is very powerful and alot of tweaking can be done with it. It also seems to be able to handle boost without any specific mods. It adapts.

For LS1 parts, email valvegod@aol.com. He comes highly recommended from LS1.com. I contacted him about a waterpump and got a good price - shipped quick and well packed. As to structural mods, yes, they will be required. Make sure your floors, floor rails, frame rails are free of rust. You might consider having some "sub frame connectors" welded in - sqaure tubing or folded sheet metal that continues the floor supports back and connects with the rear sub frame. Front and rear strut tower braces are key, but a full cage is preferable, both for structure and for safety. S%W (http://www.swracecars.com/roll%20bars&cages.html) make an affordable kit, although it is not a bolt in and requires fabrication. Probably more importantly, the Z will need better brakes and some driveline mods. An R200, as you mentioned, is key. The general consensus is that it can handle the high HP, and there are a few cars, such as ScottieGNZ's (http://home.cfl.rr.com/scottiegnz/gnz.html) that have run an R200 successfully. Look for one from a 75-80 280Z which will be a 3.54 ratio. You'd do well to consider switching to 280ZXt CV half shafts. The stock, Ujointed shafts a a weak link. See Terry Oxandale's write ap at http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/index.html or go to Ross C's site at http://www.modern-motorsports.com. He will be selling an adapter that allows use of standard seals and stronger 280Z stub axles with the 280ZXT CV shafts. You can also consult those 2 sites, along with MikeSCCA's site at http://www.outlaw-brakes.com for various bolt on brake upgrades. Conversion to coilovers is pretty cheap, opens up your choice of spring rates immensely, allows for ride height adjustability and signifigantly increases the available width in the wheelwells (esp. in the rear) for wider rubber. Good luck.

Whoa! I presume you've already read all the LS1 posts here, esp. regarding the fact that standard JTR setback plates won't work. Anyway, I'll be using the 4L60E trans with my LS1 swap. I'd like to eventually get a T56, but ain't got enough dollars currently. I'm starting my swap tomorrow. There are guys on the LS1.com forum (currently down) who have broken the A4, which does seem to have a better reliability rep than the T56, at least for drag racing. But the FBodies are much heavier than a Z and they tend to use much stickier, wider tires. Those who broke stuff switched to the TH400. You can probably pick up an A4 (the 4L60e) for $700 or so. The one you want came in 98-02 FBodies.

RedNeckZ makes several good points. The reason you may have heard that the 4spd has better gearing likely has to do with the stock, R180 ratios, which are 3.36, that the 4spd is matched to. If you switched to a ZX 5sp, off the line acceleration would be terrible. You could switch to a 280Z 5sp, which has ratios matched to a 3.54 rear. Bryan Little's "Datsun Garage" website had a wealth of information on all the various trans and diff ratios. Unfortunately the link is broken . If you're up for a rear diff swap at the same time, you can mix and match (depending on what you can find forsale) and come up with a set of ratios that will best suit your driving needs - highway cruising and gas mileage vs off the line acceleration. For instance, a 280Z or early Maxima 5sp matched to a ZX 3.9 (or the rarer 4.11 200sx turbo) would give you screaming acceleration, but your revs at 65mph would be a bit higher.

Are you gonna modify you're front diff xmember, make that arc wider for the big oval tubing? Can I ask what the cost is on that oval tubing? Does the source have a web page?

I did mine the way Terry O did his. YOu don't have to remove the stubs at all. You only remove the companion flange to replace it with the ZXT companion flange. It's quick fast easy. I have noticed no binding on my axles. I mean, obviously it's tighter than the actual 280zx, but I can, for instance, squinch the shaft and make a 3/4 inch or so gap between comp flange and the outer CV. The rubber piece I used I just had to section with a razor blade. It was ribbed, so that made it easy. I wrapped some rubber sticky tape around the ZXT seal and also around the rubber piece just to ensure that things were nice and water tight. Is Ross saying that the adapter welded to the 280 flange results in a piece that is actually shorter than the ZXT flange? That's interesting. Is the 280Z flange shorter than the 240 flange? Because the 240 and ZXT flanges seemed to be about the same length. Anyway, to sum up: You can easily switch to CVs in the short term by getting the ZXT flanges along with the CV axles. The ZXT and the 240 have the same stub axle dimensions (diameter and spline count). Comb the plumbing aisle at a HomeDepot and look for a PVC shower drain that has a ribbed rubber gaskety thing on it: about 3 inches by about an inch high. I think it cost about $5 and I cut 2 pieces out of it, one for each seal. Get 2 ZXT inner bearing seals, some new grade8 bolts and you're all set. Later on, when you have the time (and the dollars for the 280Z stubs and some new bearings), switch over to the Scottie adapter welded to the 280 comp. flanges. Actually, it would be some kind of cool if, when you are ready to upgrade, you went ahead and tried to break the 240 stub axles.

Oops. You're right. Pesky arithmetic...

You don't have to switch to the 280Z stub axles! I mean, long term, that may be a good way to go. But, the ZXT flanges slide right on the 240Z stub axles (per Terry's write up). Since the ZXT flange has a smaller OD, the 240 bearing seal won't work. You either have to use a R200 pinion seal with the outer rubber scraped off (didn't work for me), or use some material to make up the difference between the ZXT seal's OD and the housing's ID. Terry explains using a section of PVC pipe. I found a piece of rubber from HomeDepot that went with a shower drain. Worked perfectly. So, all you have to do is get the ZXT flanges along with the axles. It's a total bolt on. You need an impact wrench to get the 240 flange nut off (after taking care of the what-dya-call em' bendy-inny end thingamajobs). If you undo the 3 nuts on the top isolator to swing the strut out, it makes it easier to install the new shafts.

Hard to say. BLKMGK has the 300ZX 5 lug conversion with 35mm offset 17X8 wheels. Since the ones you're talking about are 1/2 inch narrower, you could theoretically go to a 45mm offset and potentially clear the larger, stock spring perch. Coilovers definately make all of this stuff much easier

I don't know that I could effectively argue the point of short/wide vs. narrow/tall. I'm a bit confused by the notion that the taller tire is going to lose fiction with the road due to increased sidewall shear forces (and there's no way I can spend $100 to find out ). But, I think with the Z car, unflared, there's not much point in the debate anyway. If you're very diligent, you can maybe stick a 9 inch wide wheel in there (8 is alot easier). So, in order to get the maximum tread to the road, you gotta go to the taller wheel. I don't see how a 16X8 wheel can give you a more effective footprint than a 17X8. Also, seems like there are more sport tires to choose from in the 17 inch diameter. That aside, if anyone wanted to trade me a set of 16X8 Panasports for my 17X8 5spokes, I'd be all over it...

I have no idea. Does seem silly that they wouldn't modularize things though. As to the blower, I can tell you that those 4 speeds are "Slow", "Barely on", "Just enough to not restrict ordinary airflow", and "Making a little bit of noise". IOWs, the blower is terrible.

Seems like switching over to CVs would be less work than installing 4 new Us? If you're having trouble finding the shafts locally, you can try either ZBarn or you could call Fuller's salvage here in Durham. I know they have at least 2 pairs. I presume they would ship them to you. I talked them down to $125 including the rear calipers, but it may be tougher to haggle over the phone - esp. with the shipping part. Been thinking of buying an extra set for spares - cash is tight lately though (mostly due to that LS1 sitting in the garage ). Anyway, just get the stub flanges with them and it's pretty much a 4 hour R&R job. Most of that time is sucked up by adapting the seals.

Be careful. If the driver's floor is rusted thru, then both floors and their rails will have to be completely torn out and replaced at a minimum. Depending on your abilities this job alone will either take a few weekends and a few hundred bucks, or a few months and a few thousand. Furthermore, the frame rails could very well be rusted thru as well. This is major work. See Pete Paraska's site (member's rides). Basically, if you feel like tackling a potentially huge project, cutting, welding, fabricating, possibly rotissery-ing, then go for it. Otherwise, don't chance it. These cars are so susceptible to rust....

It's all pretty much one unit - controls, fanbox, evap, heatercore, etc. You have to take the dash out (obviously), disconnect the lines (heater and A/C) and there are 2 studs that go thru the firewall - the nuts will have to be removed from the engine side. I would just grab everything.

This is the supra airdam I was talking about: It's a bit extreme, but I think it looks purty. Here's a doctored side view: (I butchered it up - those 14inch slot mags that were on there just wouldn't do any kind of airdam any justice) I can't imagine how an airdam designed for any generation supra could possibly fit on a 240Z, but this one seems to fit perfectly.

Oh. The thing I as talking about was a car that had a whole spoiler from a Supra. I mean, not a stock one, an aftermarket one. It was a bit extreme, but it looked nice. As I recall (vaguely), it was fairly cheap, like $150 or so, but the shipping was prohibitive since it was sourced from the UK.

You're words intrigue me. Do tell more of this Supra Chin Spoiler. Got any pichers? I saw some photos of a car posted on ZDriver looong ago of a guy who put some kind of aftermarket spoiler meant for a Supra from the UK on his Z. Looked real nice.

Great car. Cool website. Very flashy. The wing is geech though. I agree with Stony, that wing goes with a hugely flared car (like Hoover's) and would need about 1000hp to back it up. He had my same rims. I bet he paid way more though . I liked the leather door panels. It'll be years before I start in on my interior. Many years after that before I get to the exterior.