jeromio

But you'd be better off with a longer cartridge in the longer rear tube. Also, the front 240 cart goes right in the rear (shortened) tube without having to modify the isolater.

Does anyone have pictures of the underside of their 350 equipped car that they could share? I'd like to have something to compare with the pics of LoneStar1's car. Oh - and I have a question for anyone with a 75-78 Z: does the engine interfere with the A/C lines at the firewall? I have worries about this as I have an A/C system from a 77 280Z installed in my car (although not working - leaky lines ). Thanks.

You can put the 2nd O2 sensors in, it's just that they're expensive. There are modules that simulate an O2 signal. There are also VATS eliminating modules, and modules for the fuel system (the ECU controls the pump, the regulator and gets a signal from a fuel pressure sender). But, by the time you've bought all that, you'll probably spend more than the $250 for either the ECU programming or the LS1-Edit tool (which I think will cost around $250). Also, you should verify that you're car must pass emissions. In most states (including Cali which is by far the most restrictive), 73 and older are exempted. (which is completely ironic since about 90% of all the pollution is caused by the older cars of which I personally own 3 ). Furthermore, even with an emissions test, you may not need the cats. The LS1 has high compression and some pretty fancy fuel/ignition routines to optimize combustion. If you don't already have the cats, they are crazy expensive (and of course they also restrict exhaust flow). Most yards won't sell them (at least around here they don't/can't), so they have to be bought new.

Look in the Chevy forum, "Crossmember spacers" topic. You'll need alot more stuff from the donor car to avoid ECU reprogramming, auto or manual, doesn't make a difference. Also check out LS1.com in their ECU forum.

The simplest solution for the various ECU problems is of course to just mail the ECU off to Speartech or some other tuner and have them reprogram it. There's VATS, there's the lack of secondary (post Cat) O2 sensors, there's the whole fuel pressure regulator/sending unit/pump issue. I'm hoping to avoid the added expense - about $250. This LS1 Edit thing is supposed to be available in a few months. In theory this will allow programming of all aspects of the ECU, without depending on $omeone el$e. When it's available, I'm gonna be all over it and it would suck to pay twice. So, I'm getting a BDM with matching resistor along with my motor. I'm going to see about picking up the various fuel supply elements as well, or else comb the junkyards for them. It's cruel and cynical to say, but one of the beauties of these LS1 and LT1 engines is that there are countless teenyboppers wrecking these cars, filling up the yards with parts.

Well, if you have any dollars (about 3000 of them), there's a couple of kits available for turbo'ing the LS1. Stock internals - everything bolts on. And the kits are designed for the extremelely tight FBody engine bay, so I'd guess fitment would not be much of a problem. They all seem to run 6-7 PSI and add about 100hp.

I guess the thing I didn't understand was that since the motor is mounted to the crossmember, why would it be necessary to lower the crossmember? Hood clearance? Anyway, the LS1 seems pretty low profile, and it's aluminum, therefore light, and there is no distributor, so, basically, I am not planning on using the spacers at all. Like you say, seems like the spacers are gonna alter the suspension geometry.

I should probably just finish reading the JTR manual that I just got (wife made me put it down at dinner tonight), but I'm gonna just start asking questions anyway: The spacer plates that go between the frame and the crossmember, is everyone using those? Seems like something I'd like to avoid if possible. Would these be necessary for an LS1?

Actually, the Aston Martin V12 is 2 "Duratec" (lame name) V6s plornked together. That's the same engine as the Probe/Contour. Obviously the castings of block/heads are different, but the CAD of the actual castings is basicaly just that. Apparently they saved beaucoup dollars (pounds?) doing it that way and all the car magazines rave about the smoothness and power of the resulting engine.

Here's a link to my post: http://208.238.17.66/ls1forum/Forum1/HTML/020038.html It's a pretty nice forum - I was happy to find it. They have over 20,000 members!! So, inevitably, there is some BS along with the good info. Very good on balance though. It's lately become another internet destination for me (along with Slashdot, wired, here of course...). I'm definately feeling good about my recent engine choice. And since I will be going to the actual place to pick it up, and it's not too far away, I'm fairly confident that I won't get screwed on the deal. Although at $2K for the whole chimichanga, I can't help but feel a tad nervous. There was an auction on a 2000 LS1 that closed yesterday, and although it had the more expensive T56, it closed at $4K. With no headers and a few other missing pieces no less . It is getting hard to rein in my imagination on this project. I've already daydreamed myself a 12 inch LCD "instrument console" tied to the OBD2 ECU. I gotta stop and smack myself once and awhile.... I got my JTR book today and started pouring over it. Did I mention the coming onslaught of questions that all of you experienced hybrid'ers will be facing?

I agree with BLKMGK on the NASCAR thing. It's just not something I understand. They have all these fanatically tight restrictions on, for instance, the outside measurements of the body being exactly the same as the "equivalent production car". Nevermind that none of the "equivalents" are RWD, offer V8s, have carbs - there's not even any such thing as a 2 door Taurus. The technology is locked in the 70s. And I'm sure it takes great skill and endurance and all, but please, 500 miles of Turn left, Turn left, Turn left, turn left.....There was one race - Watkins Glen? Do they still do that one? It was the only roadcourse race in Nascar. That one was pretty cool. For some reason the American public is really into it. I just don't get it. On the other hand, GTP and events such as LeMans: Race a crazy high-tech car for a whole day on a tight twisty course - often in the rain! That's some stuff. And they mix all those different classes of cars together. Very fun to watch - makes me wish I had cable. I had cable as a kid and I used to watch every Rally car race that was televised. Those 8-900hp turbo, AWD Audis and Fords and Porsches flying across some countryside at insane speeds on twisty, narrow DIRT roads with the tail swishing all over the place. That's exciting.

I'll tell you what I should've done: Smash that thing with a hammer. My passenger side was stuck so I pulled and pried and sprayed and heated. Got it off - after about 2-3 hours of intense, frustrating labor. And you know what? I ended up cracking the %$#&@! thing. Save yourself the hassle. Chances are good that it's too thin to turn anyway. Smash it with a big hammer. It'll be fun. I wish I would've just done that. BTW, I ended up going to rear discs rather than mess with those drums ever again. Now that there's a nice kit available - all the more reason. Discs are just sooooo much easier.

Well, I wasn't really looking for any answers. Just being excited and sharing some info.....

I guess this really only applies to LoneStar1 at this point, but have you seen any info on this LS1-Edit product that is supposedly coming out in a few months? Apparently it will allow you to manipulate the programming of the engine - timing, fuel maps, etc. Currently the only thing available is the Hypertech module, but you can only burn in the programs that they give you (well, sell you would be more accurate). OR their are companies like Speartech that will reprogram if you mail the ECU to them. They quoted me $300 (to eliminate VATS, remove the 2nd set of O2s and redo the fuel system). Kinda steep. This is very cool. I also found this site - their selling a module that connects the OBD2 to a laptop and they have some pretty nice windows software. Complete scanning of all codes, datalogging, graphing, etc. Even has a set of "virtual instruments". You can display up to 6 at a time: ignition, tach, temp, MAF, fuel pressure, speed, etc. Very cool. It's only $112! I can't wait to get this engine installed. I'm picking it up on Saturday. What really bowls me over is these guys running turbos and SCs on stock internals. Those internals run 10.2:1 compression! Not to mention seeing the pictures of all that tubing crammed into an FBody engine bay. I posted the picture of Lonestar1's engine bay on LS1.com by way of explaining my planned swap (lot of info on that site and some pretty good forum discussion). One guy made a crack about the engine being "crammed in there"! Have you seen a picture of a Camaro or TA engine bay? I do not envy them working on those cars. Half the engine is under the windshield. And as wide as those cars are, the strut towers (well, there's no struts - spring perch towers?) are GIGANTIC. It definately looks like a much smaller engine bay. Anyway, so far so good...

They definately need that for EPA and also just to get a green image. Mercedes already has a V12 with a similar system. But, just as with the skipshift T56, I'm certain it's something that could be disabled....

http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/010821/11/9984.html Probably pie in the sky. Personally, I think it would've been sweeter to make a V12 by siamesing that new I6 of theirs.

I just got the engine, trans and ECU, not the whole car. Also getting all sensors and mounts, starter, alternator. I'm also getting a shifter and a steel driveshaft from the guy. He's got a line on a waterpump to replace the broken one too. Not sure what you mean about rotating the exhaust flange - do you mean, cutting it off, and then welding it back on shifted 30 degrees? That's discouraging news about the ECU and the JTR plates. I guess I'll call Mike Knell and see if I can somehow get access to those drawings - can't hurt to ask. Are they different because of the exhaust, or the motormounts? I've seen alot of stuff about people reprogramming the ECU. Perhaps there's info out there on disabling the antitheft....

There's an article on this swap on this site, here: http://www.hybridz.org/TechA/0002/MKBrakeConversion1.htm BUT, for some reason it's whit text on a white background. SO, you'll need to hughlight that big blank region above the pictures to read it.

Okay. Well, I've got a 1999 Camaro SS LS1 with the 4L60E on the way. Can't really afford it. Typical of me. Seemed like a crazy low price, so I bid on it, didn't make the reserve, so I bumped it by $50 - just playing around. But Bingo! $2000 that I now have to scratch around for . I don't think I need to mention my wife's reaction.... Supposedly has 34K miles on it. From a wreck. Needs a water pump. No A/C compressor or p/s pump. Can't use the former, don't need the latter. At this price, I'm thinking I can make due with the auto for the time being - going from 150hp to 300hp should be plenty of consolation... Now I need to get a driveshaft, an electric fan and some kind of shifter. Initially, I'm gonna try and use the 280Z EFI electric fuel pump that I have sitting on a shelf. I'll just grab an aluminum trans cooler from the discount store. I've ordered my JTR manual and will get the brackets cut as soon as it shows up. Which leads me to a question: Anyone ever considered making these from aluminum? I ask because I know the CNC shop I will use will likely try and persuade me to use Al. Are there plans for the trans mount in the JTR book? So, no 7MGTE after all. No 5.0 either. All that talk and I end up going "mainstream". Well, at least relative to this crowd here anywayz . On the Supra motor, I had started looking at the cost of injectors, an I/C and piping, etc. And apart from the mounting of the engine, little things like adapting the driveshaft were bugging me a little. When I put the 429 in my 55, I ended up re-doing it completely because the "first try" just didn't seem optimal. I think that was in my wife's and others' minds when I mentioned the Supra transplant into the Z and they rolled their eyes (that truck is still in "long-term project" mode - in the garage). Basically, I want/need as little downtime on my car as possible. And an LS1 should reward me with a goodly amount of power when I'm done. Be prepared for the torrent of questions.....

Yeah, well, things never quite seem to work out in anything like the smoothest manner for me.... The auto is definately not my first choice. But it is just soooo much cheaper. Plus, there seem to be some T56 demons running amok around here lately... Would you be able to offer any tips on using the F-Body console and shifter? I presume you had to make some modifications? (Hey, that thing has cup holders!) Anyone have any other thoughts on low profile shifter options? I've seen some pictures of cars with aftermarket auto shifters that seem really large and sticky-outy - not really a big fan of that. While I'm bugging you, what did you do for fuel - stock tank, fuel cell, fuel pump? I've got an 80s Camaro side tank radiator in the car now - 2 row, no cooler. I presume it will be adequate. I'd need to get a good electric fan though - and a trans cooler. You used a custom bracket for the A/C? Which compressor are you using and was the pulley on it compatible with the LS1 belts, or did you have to switch things out? Did you use an aluminum F-Body driveshaft? Did the JTR mounts work - any mods necessary? I have a 4.11 in the car now - sounds like that's not gonna work too well unless I wanna snap my neck. I do have a 3.54 that I could use. Thanks.

What is SFI? This is a 99 Camaro SS motor from a wrecked car. $500 for a clutch!??!! Wow. Whatdya suppose I could get for the 4L60E? I presume that it will only bolt up to another LS1. I think if I do this, I may just want to put the auto in for now, and then switch to the T56 later on. That leaves the problem of what to do about the shifter.

If one were to get an LS1 with the ECU from an automatic equipped vehicle (4L60E), would it be possible to use a T56 with it? IOWs, can one (easily) use the auto ECU with the manual? Also, I suppose that apart from the crazy initial price of the T56, the clutch/flywheel are probably around $800, eh? That would pretty much put the keibash on my little plan....

The J motor can be had for $3-5K. About equal to the Chevy V8 in price according to my research (the T56 bumps the cost way up on the Chevy). There's incredible aftermarket support for both Mk3 and Mk4 Supra engines - expensive stuff though. There are well documented BPUs that don't cost very much, especially considering the resulting power increase. The Mk3 is definately the superior choice if you have a limited budget. The tough part is finding one without a blown HG, or even a loose head that has allowed corrosive coolant to get at the bearings, etc. The factory recommended torque on the head bolts was much too low. Very easy to fix if caught in time. The HK$ gasket is mostly just used as a "while you're at it" thing and to pave the way for increased boost. Mk4 seems to be overbuilt (perhaps as a reaction to the 7MGTE fiasco). Either way, if Supra510 can squeeze one of these into a 510, it's gotta be a snap to stick one in a Z.

Makin' me blush.....

As I stated in a different post, I have found that engines that sit for a long while tend to have dried out, toasted valve seals. Just something to be aware of. If they are toast, it'll just mean fouled plugs and blue exhaust - ie, no irreparable damage or anything. And obviously primer soaks up moisture so, yeah, you'll want to do something about that prior to actual paint. Everything else depends on your long term and short term plans for the car. Personally, I wouldn't remove the undercoating to look for rust. I mean, it may be a worthwhile thing to do as part of the restoration, but it's <b>alot</b> of work, and if you just want to scout for rust (and if there's a chance that it's not infected with the cancer) then just poke around with a scratch awl instead. IOWs, if it's not rusty, then that undercoating is some good stuff and you might want to keep it there. On my car, I poked it (before grudgingly agreeing to buy it - Z's are scarce in my area) and the rust was pretty easy to find - battery area, passenger frame rail, floor pan and floor brace. The metal is thin to start with, so if it's got rust, it shouldn't take much poking to find it. If you do want to just strip off all that UC to revitalize things, I recommend first of all getting a copy of that "How to restore your Datsun Z Car" book (lost my copy ). Some good tips in there as I recall. I used a torch at high heat and had some luck sort of glazing it into a hard, brittle-ness that was chip-off-able - I only did this on certain spots though, not the whole car. Otherwise it's kind of a mess. It seems to just be tar. Can't imagine what an ordeal it would be to remove it all. Take the battery out and poke around there, and both interior and exterior of the floor.