ericbauer

the NA Z32 300ZX 26mm caliper is aluminum and is the lightest of the bunch, it believe it's only found on the first couple years of Z32, as well as non-GT-R R32 (ie GT/GTS) I used these calipers with a custom bracket and custom rotor hats I made up on my 240Z. I'm running 15" rims - the only issue for fitment is how much negative offset your front wheels have (15x9 -13mm requires a spacer for the back of the spokes to not hit the face of the caliper for example - I tested) After the 26mm caliper was discontinued on the Z32, there was a heavier steel 30mm and an alloy 32mm caliper that showed up. It was my understanding that the dimension was the thickness of the rotor - NOT the size of the pistons in the calipers... I can re-measure mine to confirm. I hope this helps? -e

Since it is made from scratch, I suppose they need customer car present to bend it up? Or did they take measurements from yours and can reproduce it without a car present?

touching is fine - but you might get an annoying rattle out of it... depending on the header sometimes the bolt holes are so big that there's a bit of slop on how it lines up to the head. maybe next time you have it off, you might want to weld on a washer over the bolt hole to perfectly locate it every time... just a suggestion...

Thanks johnc Thanks T-Bone028 Stock settings then! -e

Hi everyone, I posted the specs to the big cam that came with my stroker L28 here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113204-camshaft-id-timing-help-please/ A friend of mine is reaching out to a couple Japanese tuners asking if they recognize the specs and can claim the cam as one of their own, but so far no answer. So in the meantime, should I use stock L28 valve lash settings when I put my head back together with this cam? I know that Rebello for example has a very specific setting for his... Wondering if in your experience other cam manufacturers do too? Any help/advice is appreciated! Thanks, -e

Hi everyone, I posted the specs to the big cam that came with my stroker L28 here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113204-camshaft-id-timing-help-please/ A friend of mine is reaching out to a couple Japanese tuners asking if they recognize the specs and can claim the cam as one of their own, but so far no answer. So in the meantime, should I use stock L28 valve lash settings when I put my head back together with this cam? I know that Rebello for example has a very specific setting for his... Wondering if in your experience other cam manufacturers do too? Any help/advice is appreciated! Thanks, -e

In case anyone's curious, here are the R200 circlips Nissan part number 38225-N3100 27mm ID, 32mm OD I popped them in earlier today and they worked a-ok - axles are now securely held in place.

Thanks johnc My local downtown L.A. Nissan dealer said 1-2 weeks to get them in their parts dept. I called Courtesy and they said they could ship it out from Tx in 1-2days... (and supposedly they are coming out of the LosAngeles warehouse) Go figure how that works ... Thanks all again, -e

Thanks NewZed I'll call the dealership tomorrow with that p/n in hand... Thanks again!! -e

Hi all I got a Quaife QDF7L for my long nose R200 rear diff in my 240Z According to the net it works in 280ZX / Z31 300ZX with both 10mm and 12mm ring gear bolts. It also works on shortnose R200 for S13/14 I don't have the earlier bolt-in halfshafts. I have the later style snap-in (circlip) half-shafts. While it's difficult to photograph, I managed to snap these two pics of the inside of the diff: You can see the groove in the Quaife where I'm guessing the circlip is supposed to retain the half-shaft. You can also see that there is no apparent threads in the diff for the early style bolt-in half-shafts. But neither the diff nor the half shafts have the retaining circlips... The half-shafts slide in and out freely... Not ideal... lol... I called Nissan and they had no p/n for a circlip on the diff side of 280ZX half-shafts Were they supposed to come with the Quaife? Any ideas where I can get some? Thanks all, -e

Hi all, In post #23 on Page2, Ian says he got a Rebello cam stamped with "63DI" on the back In post #24, Paul says he called Rebello and was told to set the cam between 0.010" & 0.020" advanced I have the same "63DI" cam from Rebello. FYI I've got a 2949cc L28 in my 240Z (L28crank, L24rods, 89mm flat top pistons, 0.6mm nismo headgasket, + big valves & head work by DR) DR told me to set my cam up with between 0.035" and 0.045" total at valve overlap Not knowing any better I was going to shoot for dead in the middle of those two: 0.040" Is Paul explaining the same thing I'm asking about to Ian, but in a different way by measuring a different number? Or, in other words, am I asking a dumb question? Thanks in advance, -e

I thought I'd post an update since it's been a little while. I tore the Skyline's block apart and proceeded to compare/contrast the new JE pistons, with the cast Nissan pistons my stroker came with: The ONLY difference I found is that the JE pistons' valve pockets are 1.5mm shallower than the cast pistons my engine from Japan came with. I've also confirmed that my six exhaust valves are bent. JE pistons are at machine shop to see if there's enough material to drop valve pockets a further 1.5mm I've been told my bearings and rings are ok to re-use. The head's waiting for six new valves as well.

Thanks for all the kind comments guys! Yes based on what I've figured out about the car it MUST have been regularly tracked back in Japan... I'm TRYING to have someone do some research for me through Japanese DMV to track down PO. I found a clue that the engine was probably built by RH Factory in Nagoya - they are out of business now, but they used to be pretty famous for their L6's... The intake port job is massive. Out of curiosity, while i had it out, I asked Rebello to flow the head & he confirmed that below 7500rpm it's ported way too big, but above... it really sings. It came with an 8500rpm rev limit in the MSD 7 box... funny how the Japanese seek out US parts and some of us here in the States seek out Japanese ignition parts. There was an older thread on here that described some wild Japanese L6 stroker builds with massive intake port jobs... well that's more or less exactly what I've lucked out with apparently. Considering how wild the cam specs are, it really wasn't THAT bad on the street. Definitely not ideal, but not horrible either. I drove it 750miles back home to SoCal when I first picked it up. Epic drive through the desert!... I got to open it up at WSIR and it felt oh so good... I've been waiting too long to get a car like this & it means too much to me that I knew I was never going to daily drive it. When I rebuilt it (or errr.. tried to) I decided to respect the obvious intents of the previous owner and did not detune it. I'll be running 100oct from the local Union76 at nearly $9/gal. Pricey? Absolutely! but oh so worth it, I think. The headgasket I used during the rebuild was the same measured compressed thickness as the one I removed. I was able to remove it without bending/damaging it so I'll keep it around for test re-assembly. I'll re-read BRAAP's sticky again and see if I missed something - thanks for the link. -e

Hi everyone, I bought an old Nissan at auction last year & measured a slightly low 150psi / cyl when I picked it up. I didn't get any history on the car from the PO, but decided to enjoy it as is over the summer, and had a great time with it. https://vimeo.com/41685762 & https://vimeo.com/43905308 Fall came around and compression took a further dip down into the 100psi / cyl range and that's when I decided to tear it apart for a rebuild. On dis-assembly I had several pleasant surprises: The PO went to town on this thing! Diesel crank, 89mm bore, L24 rods, 37cc combustion chambers, and by my math a stout 12.1:1 What I had been enjoying all summer was a tired stroker motor and I was already pretty damn impressed... Got everything back from the machinist (later than promised), and decided I really wanted to have the car running again for a specific event. That meant a compressed time frame in addition to a busy regular day job schedule. Push came to shove and it required a string of several late nights. When it came time for final assembly, I thought I made sure everything lined up at TDC the way it was supposed to. Made sure crank timing mark was correctly lined up at TDC before I put the head on. Used a new chain, lined up bright links, and stock ("A") cam gear marks. Rotating by hand through a full revolution it felt "a little" tight at TDC for each cyl but I assumed it was due to everything being new. As a disclaimer I've owned a 240Z for the past 12years and have successfully built two different engines for it over the years. While I don't consider myself a super expert like most of you here, I feel relatively confident with my L6 mechanical knowledge. Well, while it did fire, it never idled. Move the ign key from START to ON and it would immediately die. It seemed unhappy timing wise. I re-checked all the marks and everything still seemed correct. So I went down a path of checking everything else: carbs, distributor 180 out, ignition... to no avail. When I finally gave up, I pulled the head and found pretty much what was I expecting at that point: My cam was overly retarded and I hit exhaust valves. So I'm starting over... There's never enough time to do it right, but there's always enough time do it over... I've had the cam profiled by Isky and here are the results: lobe center 105 valve lift calc. with rocker ratio of 1.5 intake @ 0.020" lifter rise duration 310deg open 50 btdc close 80 atdc cam lift 0.376" (9.55mm) valve lift .564" (14.32mm) exhaust @ 0.020" lifter rise duration 316deg open 83 bbdc close 53 atdc cam lift 0.384 (9.75mm) valve lift .576" (14.63mm) overlap 103deg Based on other clues I've come across on this engine, I'm guessing the cam might be a Kameari unit, but I can't get my numbers to jive with their advertised values. Am I reading their info wrong? I'm confused by their listed "77deg duration"... http://kameariusa.com/L6_SuperDragCamshaft.php Have some of you seen these kinds of values before? Do they ring a bell? I'm only just starting to understand the finer points of degree'ing a cam, sorry if this is a dumb question... But based on the measured values I should have the cam 1.5deg ATDC to be right in the middle of the valve overlap, right? Does that mean I should NOT be using the default Nissan "A" tick marks for a new timing chain when putting it back together? Is that what I (probably) F'ed up? Thanks in advance for your input... -e