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  1. It was for sale in Florida in October, you posted about it here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120053-a-hybrid-z-on-ebay-getting-good-bids/ $28k didnt meet the reserve then. I wonder if it sold off ebay and is for sale again.
  2. Some cell phone pics. Still have a few things left to do like exhaust and tint.
  3. Seeing if anyone has a all metal S30 Boss steering hub adapter. I dont want to wait for shipping from Thailand. Need it in perfect condition, dont need the horn. PM me.
  4. I have an 83 L28ET with Z31 ECU in a 77. These plugs are new, 0 miles, just idleing. Gapped at .42. My timing is at 25 BTDC with TPS plugged in. They have a yellowish varnish (fuel?) The car starts fine and runs good for about 30 seconds then starts stumbling badly. It also gets hot really quick. Is this caused by my timing being too advanced? Stock for the 83 I thought was 24 +/-3. Should I be setting timing for the Z31 ECU? I have a new set of NGKs gapped to .39 to use. Thank you
  5. I went to install my Speedhut coolant temp gauge which needs to use the supplied Speedhut temp sensor. I removed the stock sendng sensor for the stock gauge and now my car runs terrible and sounds like it wants to die. My question is does this sensor pictured send any info to the ECU? I thought it was just for the gauge. I have the CHTS in place, the only thing I changed was removing this. Those of you with a Speedhut or aftermarket coolant gauges how did you do the sensor with the stock system? Mine is an 83 L28ET with Z31 ECU.
  6. Just want to update after a year. The dash is still holding up fine, no cracks have appeared. Its probably helped that Ive had it covered with the tech fabric dash pad from ebay.
  7. Rickyellow could you post a little wider picture of this ball valve setup? Do you still have a hose going to your AAC nipple? Or is that a 3-way T?
  8. What was your resistance reading on your CHTS? I have one reading around 1600ohms and another reading 1400 ohms.
  9. I have a stock 83 L28ET in my 280Z with Z31 ECU swap. The VCM was bad so I deleted it and blocked off the AAC and fast idle. Now it needs some air to idle. The turbo motors dont have an idle adjustment screw, just a throttle postition stop screw. Is there any negative to adjusting the throttle stop screw to hold the throttle plate open a tad? I tried this and it will idle. Is there a better way to do it? Will having the throttle plate always cracked open at idle hurt perfomance anywhere else? Thanks
  10. Ok I need some help. Ive been messing with my L28ET/Z31 swap after work for two months trying to get it to start and run and its getting depressing with summer being here. Today I had a break through and it now starts instantly and idles fine but it will only start with one spark plug removed. Doesnt matter which plug is removed, I tried taking them all out one at a time. Pulling a plug wire wont let it start, a plug has to actually be out, any plug, and itll fire up instantly. With all 6 plugs/wires in it will just crank. My Z is a 77 280Z with a stock 83 L28ET and Z31 ECU/MAF swap. The '83 motor ran and drove perfectly smooth and strong before I swapped it. I have two Z31 turbo ECUs, 84 & 86, its doing the same thing with both. Any ideas on what this is would be appreciated. Heres some info I can give you - Fuel pump primes for about 4 seconds when key is ON. Fuel pressure right before the rail is 36PSI on prime, 29PSI when idling on 5 cylinders. Autometer inline gauge. Fuel pump is new AC Delco rated at 75psi, grounded to the chassis for the Z31 swap. All injector plugs are new, getting 12.68V on both sides, the ECU should ground them. With a Noid light, each injector plug will light the Noid and pulse when cranking but the Noid light is dim. I temporarily double grounded every ground having to do with the motor, ECU and Maf. No difference Firing order is right, Z31 optical disc installed right side up I even tried flipping it, new NGK plugs and wires, every plug has blue/white spark when grounded on the valve cover bolt while cranking, new rotor and cap. Gently installed so not to mess with the timing. Battery was 12.8v today. I tried an spare turbo coil and ignitor I had too. Ive cleaned every contact on the car, top to bottom and used Deoxit on every connection. My CHTS is getting 5.05v. Resistance through it is 1600 ohms, I bought new one just to try and same thing. Both red/green ECU lights light up on both ECUs when key is at ON. I do not have the tach hooked up, dash is out of the car. Tach wire and resistor are in place. I do not have the knock sensor or the oil temp sensor on the oil pan hooked anywhere. Both arent supposed to be needed after the Z31 swap. My friend thinks it could be bad grounding or wire resistance somewhere.
  11. Very nice. I agree the the Zs need a third brake light. I used the Hella Model 37 from Daniel Stern - http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html It just sticks inside the top of the hatch glass. Since its LED I just ran the wire down under the molding and spliced it into the brake light wire. Works great.
  12. Heres some more info on it too - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/23325-rebuilt-my-combination-switch-today.html A good upgrade is the parking lights and headlight relays from MSA, made by Dave in that thread. - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP1/12-4652 He custom made both for my 280Z as well.
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