spiff

After reading a lot of threads here let me know if I understand this correct as I'm looking into a way of getting my open r200 into an lsd unit and I see there are lots of diff centers for sale on ebay f.ex and they are cheap. Mainly the nissan S13-14 and some s15 helicals. Nissan S13 and 14 R200 VLSD: Will bolt in to my existing r200 but will behave like an open diff due to my stock stub axles not being long enough to engage the lsd unit. ? Nissan R200 CLSD: Will bolt in and do its job as and lsd without modifications. Only found in the Z31 87 to 88 model and thus hard to find? Silvia S15 R200 helical: Will bolt in but stub axles won't fit due to the helical being 30 spline as opposed to my stock ones which are 29 spline

I'm curious, how is your welded stub axle holding up?

Right now I'm using the stock 4-speed from the L28E as I have not yet shortened the ZXT driveshaft. Maybe, can't see anything leaking at the master cylinder but when taking the car out from storage this spring the clutch line going to the slave cylinder was wet, so yes; I'm replacing the slave cylinder and the hose. I have also gotten an offer on a Spec clutch so I'm replacing all of that when installing the zxt transmission That feeling when it first fires up, that's why we do this isn't it?

5 days of intense wrenching action and head scratching last week resulted in a L28ET breathing again for the first time in about 3 years last friday, just in time for a track event on saturday Thanks for all the help all of you provided when efi wiring and ignition troubles almost got the better of me, and fast replies too! Here's a short video of the car streching it's legs! Engine has performed flawlessly since startup, not a single hiccup all weekend but unfortunately I got some air in my clutch line during the event which resulted in some gear crunching and me not being able to down shift on the way home.... I have since bled the clutch line and can now engange all gears but reverse is still crunching. I think maybe the syncro rings might have taken a hit there.... Good thing I'm installing the borgwarner t5 soon

Thanks, everything is all right then

I just hooked up the timing light and when cranking the timing mark was at the 10 degree mark... I have since checked with engine running at idle and its around 20 degrees now. What puzzles me is how or why the rotor is pointing the wrong way with nr1 cylinder at tdc and all timing marks lined up. Engine runs super smooth though, i'm just wondering what should oil pressure be at idle?

It's ALIVE! Rotor was facing the wrong way, switched plug wires around, fired right up!

Not sure if I follow you here, how do you do that? I have checked timing, its around 10 degrees

All injectors are getting a pulse signal. All injectors are ticking.

Compression is good, 150 psi on all. Not firing on starter gas either. Have burned off the gas in the cylinders, unplugged the injectors and tried to start it on starter gas. No luck...

PO said he pulled the engine about two-three years ago, filled it with oil and has since sat in his garage. Engine turns over smoothly but maybe some valves are sticking or injectors. I don't know I don't have a cold start valve, even though it's and efi engine, startup enrichment is probably handled by the injectors like on newer cars... Gonna try heating the plugs today and buying a can of starter gas. Also check compression. A friend of mine said it appeared to be firing on the downstroke, like when you put a dizzy cap on 180 degrees wrong, but then again this cap has a notch so can't be put on more than one way. Same goes for the oil pump shaft connecting to the distributor right?

Yeah, I found those two.. but there is another connector on the bottom too, a two pin, On the wiring scheme one wire is connected to throttle switch and the other one to a thermal switch. But I don't have that plug in my wiring harness, just wondering what happens if it's not connected. The efi relay and fuel pump relay are hooked up as per the efi wiring diagram which leaves me with that mystery plug.... Only one of them is connected to ECU, it goes to pin 27, same pin as power wire coming from EFI relay, so this one is live when ecu is alive, but why? What does it do? That's what I'm wondering... The five other wires are as I said two for the knocking sensor, one engine earth and the two last ones appear in the same harness as injectors where they are cut. But I can't fin anything on the plenum for which they would have been connected to :/ What are the consequences of running this L28ET with the stock L28E efi system?

Compression is next on my list. I know its sparking because I have pulled all 6 plugs and checked for spark. Strong spark on all. I know its getting fuel since all plugtips where moist and smelling of gasolin when i pulled them after many attempts to start it.

Wired, but not starting; http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114316-have-fuel-and-spark-still-not-firing/

Tried to start my newly swapped L28ET today...It's getting fuel and plugs are firing, still it wont start, just ocasional loud pops from the turbo(I have not hooked up exhaust yet), like its backfiring or something. Timing is around 10 degrees when cranking. Plug wires are double checked to be in the correct firing order (1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise) What else to check?

Thanks, I have compared the ZX wiring harness to the schematics I have found online. Some things match, some don't.... I found the EFI relay, seen here with a brown and green two pin plug(connects to +12V) and a four pin plug, supplies power to the ecu or the ecu relay if I remember correctly(the important thing is it matches the scheme i have) The main harness: Managed to find the Fuel relay and the male four pin plug connecting to the EFI harness: So I think I might get this done, but I'm now left with a mystery plug. A six pin connector, I can't find this in the efi schematic. I used a continuity tester and found that two of these wires are connected to the knock sensor, or at least I think its a knock sensor, a round thing screwed in to the block just underneath the head temp sensor... Black and red wire... The other black wire from the 6 pin plug is an earth wire, the round type, connected somewhere on the intake plenum... Then there is the red/black and red/yellow wire which I found cut on the loom along with the injectors... What could this be?? The last wire on the plug, a red one, I traced back to the ecu(but I can't remember what pin number) Thermostat housing, notice I don't have the "normal" two pin connector type.... Distributor, what is the plug at the bottom right, and what are the consequenses if I don't find this plug? I have found the top one. This is a plug inside under the dash of my car, it was connected to the efi harness. I believe the green/blue wire is for the fuel pump. The three others have the same coloring as three of the wires on the ignition so I believe they are 12V constant, ignition on and start? Would this be the best point to wire in the ZX efi harness? Long post but if you read it and can help, big thank you Also I think maybe this thread could be moved to the electrical or efi forum?

So it's the same colors and pinout on my ecu and wiring as in the FSM diagram for the US ZX i have? I also got the body harness from the turbo zx, so I have the efi and fuel pump relays I think, I just need to find them... Also, in the same harness as the ecu plug, there is a another big connector, 6 Pin female connector with some reds, red/yellow and black. This is the plug wich supplies power and ground to the ecu? I can't find any male connector on the body harness that it fits, but there is 6 wires in a bunch that have been cut, blues and whites. Is that what it would have gone in to when it was all installed in a ZX?

But does anyone have or know of the wiring diagram or an ecu pinout for the euro ZX? I'm starting my swap tomorrow and wiring is the only thing I'm struggling with now...

So this should be easier then? I haven't studied my current wring harness that much, but I have looked at the turbo harness and from the ecu there is only a small plug, I'm guessing it connects to the ignition harness and hopefully that's the only connection I need to make the engine run? What is AAR? You say the zx-t diff is 3.36, I thought they where 3.5? Not sure what I have in my car now, I thought it was 3.9 but some sources say all 280z's came with a 3.5, I don't know, haven't checked.... I plan on opening up the zx-t diff and check it out, and also try to install a vlsd unit so I can just swap it out with the one in my car when the time comes, avoiding any serious down time If the manuals are in german so be it, that's what we have google translate for Plus I need to refresh my german skills

I removed the hub today to check if I could move the rotors further out but there isn't any spacers or such on the rotors, the rotors are mounted flush on the hubs and cannot be moved further out. So I guess the washers on the caliper bolts stay. Unless I mill off a couple of mm's from the mounting face of the rotor to get it further out, but that just sounds like a lot of work, I ground the lip off the lca and problem solved.... Maybe the wrong disc brakes are installed? I don't know. Here you can see the gap between the caliper and the mounting hub without the two washers and bolt mounted: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HKLvQ5UIWks/UeqZJxHqdnI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/0GPG9caTFKI/w251-h446-no/DSC_0213.jpg

Yes I have the complete exhaust from downpipe and to the cat I believe, but isn't the stock DP cast iron? Isn't that hard to weld to stainless? The exhaust bends I have bought are 2.5" stainless steel... There wouldn't happen to be anyone here with a CAD drawing of the flange? I have a friend with access to a cnc mill but he needed a cad drawing to give to the operator....

Not sure if spacers where used on rotors as I have not taken it appart. But there are two washers on each caliper mounting bolt, moving the calipers inwards. I should remove those then and space out the rotor accordingly?

My car had some chopped springs installed, car looked awesome, handled terrible... So one of the first things I did was buy some new eibach lowering springs and after reading up on lowering z's I bought a set of "bumpsteerspacers" from blackdragonauto. Now after installing this my front rotors are rubbing on the lower control arms when I turn the steering wheel, makes a horrible sound to if driving... Anyone experienced this? My brake setup is a four piston caliper which I assume is from a toyota after reading this forum and browsing images on google so I'm guessing the rotors are of a Z31 then. I'm including som pictures of my setup. (This was on my car when I bought it so I don't know exactly what brakes they are, any help would be appreciated) And here you can see the spacer installed: Should I just remove the spacer and drive without it? Should I grind off a little on the control arm? Is it possible to space out the rotor? I noticed the calipers uses two washers to center it, could I remove those and space out the rotor itself equally? It didn't rub when I bought the car(chopped springs and no spacers)

Hi, I recently aquired an L28ET with 5spd manual BW, driveshaft, differential with cv shafts, wiring loom, engine wiring loom and ecu(From an 83 ZX turbo). I plan on doing a swap in my 280Z which have the L28E and have been browsing through this forum, google, other forums, FSM's and wiring schemes... And here's the thing, all wiring schemes I have found of the L28ET shows me a setup including a lambda sensor, which I don't have(not even a hole for it in the DP), and the ECU is plugged in via three connectors. On my turbo wiring harness there is only ONE big connector, same as on the L28E I have. Also I have seen some mentions of a dropping resistor, I can't find this on my turbo harness. I also have an oil cooler which I have read only comes on the automatic versions, but I have a manual as I said... So is this just normal differences between different markets? Anyone have or know of a service manual or wiring schemes that fits my turbo engine?

Hi, I tried searching but didn't find anything conclusive. I am in the process of swapping a L28ET in to my 280Z but I want to make a better flowing downpipe than stock, I have bought two 45degree exhaust bends but I need a flange for the turbo. Does the T3 DP flanges you find on ebay fit the stock turbo? 4bolt. Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-4-Bolt-Turbo-Exhaust-Downpipe-Flange-Gasket-T3-50AR-T3-T4-GT35-T3-60-1-/380407544274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58920e79d2&vxp=mtr Or if I wanted to go with V-band would this be interchangable with my stock wastegate housing? http://www.ebay.com/itm/t3-t3t4-5-bolt-turbo-downpipe-flange-to-2-5-v-band-/141012117247?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d4fa26ff&vxp=mtr