spiff

I was reading this article here which mentions modifying the afm signal in order to run bigger injectors: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=110359 Thats where I got the idea, with turbo injectors would look factory and I like that. I also like experimenting and fiddling with this kind of stuff If it doesn't work then I'll just use my extra injector setup. Old volvos are starting to decrease in numbers now, but they still have a strong following the ones that are left and some builds are best described as insane, I'm not sure their ecu can be modified but I know the ecu chip can be swapped. Nistune has also become costly in the last years since I fiddled with it and it's a whole lot more than I'm willing to spend on this build. On my Z32 though I will be going nistune, thats the car thats getting the good stuff, the 720 is just a fun little sideproject. And if the efi on this truck ever goes bad then I guess a CA18 or SR20 efi system with nistune can be retrofitted, I was gonna fit a RB efi system with nistune on my old L28ET S30 but the car ended up being sold before that

Good thing I'm not gonna be driving around with it in the back seat then... Thanks for the help

Mine has 4, 8 plug napz heads aren't that common on Z engines here in europe as we didn't have as strict emission requirements as the us. Compratio on these are about 8,5:1 if i'm not mistaken. I have thought about standalone but much work for little gains on this project, I'm going the cheapo route, I already have all the parts and also a couple of extra injector setups but instead of drilling and welding injector bungs and adding fuelrails and all that if I can just swap in the turbo injectors and recalibrate maf then thats what I would prefer to do. The stock injectors max out at 0.2 bars of boost, I'm gonna run about 0.4-0.5 bars of boost so I really dont need a whole lot more fuel. Why? Because turbo, as I wrote in my original post

Hello, not exactly a Z but hopefully you can help me brainstorm this idea I got... You see I bought a Datsun 1600 pickup, a 720 with a J16 engine, and I am in the process of swapping the engine out in favour of a Z24, that I will be converting to EFI using the manifold and injection system from the Z20E engine. Pretty easy stuff, but that's only the first step. When this is up and running I'll later put a turbocharger on it, I have a Z18ET manifold with a RB25DET turbo bolted on lying in my garage. I was originally thinking of running the SDS EIC I have but read a couple of articles on these flapper type mafs and modifying them or the signal in order to run bigger injectors. I don't know the size of the Z20E but they're green like the later 280Z injectors, so 180cc or somewhere in that region maybe? Can i put the 260cc turbo injectors on and either modify the signal using potmeters, or adjust the tension on the flapdoor spring? Or even the 280zx turbo maf? But they appear to be the same as the one I already have so perhaps just calibrated different. I'm not looking for massive amounts of boost or mad horsepower here, just need the extra torque the turbo provides, these engines aren't great performers anyways so no point going overboard with it....(I consider drilling holes in the intake runners and adding four extra 440cc injectors to be a little overboard(the eic setup i have) )

Just changed the 75W-90 for some Dexron 3 fluid on my ZX turbo transmission and man what a difference! Should have done it a long time ago! Smooth as butter

I swapped the relays over today and now everything works.

No led bulbs, all blinkers are blinking and blinking correct except when switching on hazards. As you say it's acting like when changing to leds. Did some googling, the hazard relay is the smallest of the two? I think I replaced the bigger one. I bought the relay on ebay as a hazard switch relay so if I've changed the wrong one it's the sellers fault, haha

When I switch on the hazard lights I can hear the relay ticking really fast, and you can see the indicator lights in the dashboard blink just as fast. Since it's switching so fast back and forth the indicators on the car doesn't really light up. Like the connection doesn't last long enough for the power to fully light up the bulbs... The speed it's ticking with is approximately the same speed as if one of your indicator lights goes out, or slightly faster. But all my indicator lights work and everything is normal when using the turn signal switch. I have tried replacing the hazard light relay but that didn't work, still the same. Then I tested the hazard light switch as the service manual indicates but everything checked out so now I'm at a loss.... Has anyone experienced something like this? Where should I start to look?

Thanks, I bought it but haven't installed it yet. Have you done anything with fueling to run it at 12 psi?

No, it's a hobby vehicle. It is what it is. But I still swapped in a 5spd to get some more comfort on highway driving and as a positive side effect I get better mileage. If I want. But I often drive my car like I stole it so...

I would also be interested in fiberglass ones....

Fired it up for the first time since october/november I think it was.... sunny weather and 10degrees celsius, fired up in an instant!

I bought mine on ebay

Just a downpipe would become pretty annoying pretty fast, at least in my experience... I'm running a 2.5" exhaust from the turbo and back with only a muffler, isn't loud at all... Pretty sure I could remove the muffler without being to bothered about it, at least since this isn't my daily driver...

If you have a r200 rear end then any lsd made for a 240sx with open diff will bolt in so you have the option from cheap (obx) to expensive(cusco, quaife, kaaz, os giken etc)...

I have used the type 1 board on a ca16de ecu running a ca18det. The software is easy to use, easy to understand and you can easily change fueling and timing maps so should work perfectly for what you are after. With the type 1 board you also get consult capability via the usb cable plugged in to the ecu, no more counting flashing leds.

Ok. Then I'll sell the 2" piping and get myself some 2.5" instead.

There is a project thread on that car over on the Japanese Nostalgic Car forum but it seems he's not much of a talker(no speaka mucho engelish). I have contemplated going with bags so that I could have the look I want but still clear the bumpy mountain roads and speedbump infested city streets where I live but that hacks in to my engine and paint budget so I would have to prioritize....

I have a l28et with a T5 and a r200 with a 3.36... I like it much better over my old 4spd with a 3.5 final drive that was 3000rpms going 80kph(50mph). Now I'm at 1900rpms(5th)... For my driving the T5+3.36 is a nice combo.

Hi, I bought a generic 2inch piping kit off ebay to build my intercooler setup, this was gonna be used with the stock TB and turbo. However AFTER I had bought this an RB25DET turbo came up for sale so cheap that I had to have it. I thought it had a 2" outlet but when I got it it was a 2.5", and I am also putting in a RB throttle body, so thats also 2.5" I think. Can I use the 2" inc piping or will it be beneficial to keep all the the piping the same diameter as the turbo, tb and intercooler inlet/outlet?(2.5")

Sounds like a good idea, I am also in the process of figuring out a same side intercooler setup and was gonna cut it all up but this looks like a much better plan. Thumbsup!

Took a little while, but exhaust leak is now under control

What about the rotor? does it point straight ahead when everything is on TDC?

This is awesome!

Offcourse, but I thought you only disabled it for tuning purposes. But if it can be left off to run in open loop without O2 feedback that sounds great