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Today I plugged the Vacuum control valve hose, problem solved. Thanks for the help

No sweat, I plan on running a bov as soon as I get my intercooler an IC piping fitted and welded in place. Altough my Z24ET ran for two years without a bov and it didn't show any signs of damage, but that's a different discussion... I doubt it: Sounds like a pretty good indication that the Air regulator is working like it should. I clamped the hose going to and from the air regulator when the engine was all warmed up and it did nothing, but clamping the hose going to the vacuum control valve does have an effect as described in my first post. I have also tested enough of these air regulators to know that they do not open in a split-second or just because of a slight pressure change.

Thanks. I'll probably close it off somehow then.

83 ZX turbo engine, euro model: I can't get the idle low enough, the idle adjustment screw is screwed all the way in, but still it idles at 1500rpms when warm. What it does is this; when starting from cold it will idle at around 1500 rpms and will settle down to about 800 when warm. So far so good right? If i drive it or rev it then it will all of a sudden idle at 1500rpms again. Today I started the car, backed it out of the garage and then left it to idle while I swept the floor and did some general cleanup, high idle when cold and then settling as it warmed up but then after a while it just jumped up to 1500, like flicking a switch. I pulled out some vice grips and started clamping hoses, when I clamped the hoses I'm pointing at with my screwdriver on the pictures the idle will go down to where it should be. (as no air is bypassing the idle valve) So what is the thing at the end of the hose, screwed in to the intake runner? I can't find it in the service manual, can't figure out what it does, other than letting extra air into the plenum and bumping up the idle seriously! Can I just unscrew it and plug the hole?

No thats fine Probably just depends on what type of shifter you use and maybe there are som small differences on the center console between different year z's?

Well, seems i dont have a 3,9 after all in ny car, i have a 3,5... So, 3,36 or 3,5 is the question now.

Without the center console in place but what about when you put the center console back on?

I don't have a stock mustang shifter, I have a hurst shortshifter. It's the bottom part where you bolt the stick to the shifter that's hitting the console. My plan is to section the shifter hole in the stock console and move it an inch further forward, lots of cracks in my center console so I might as well experiment a little with it, try some plastic welding and stuff

If you have recently changed the fuelpump chances are one of the wires have come loose, or the nut that holds the wires to the fuelpump. Happened on mine, 2 minute fix. Check connections first before tearing up your efi system

The fpr on my Z32 went bad after storing it through the winter, so it is possible for them to fail. You should hook up a gauge to check fuel pressure or try another known working one, maybe someone can lend you one?

Well, is the engine stock or is it modified by any means(have you turned up the boost)? If it starts stumbling or hesitate that could be indicators of it not getting enough fuel, assuming it runs fine under a certain rpm. You could hook up a gauge and check fuel pressure to see if the FPR is working. If it isn't, replace it, if it is working then again I must ask you if you have turned up the boost and if you have done that turn it back down again untill you can figure out a way of supplying the extra fuel it needs...

I have just bought a speedhut speedometer and a 240sx speedo sensor, but I can't find any reference for the wiring of the speedosensor? There is one green and one black, is one signal? Should the other one have a 12V in? which is which? All the schematics I found was with two yellow wires...

Most of my driving will be done on regular roads(some twisting) and mountain roads, some highway cruising(around 100-130kph) and maybe a trackday event couple of times a year... So the 3.36 sounds tempting as I think the taller gearing will provide a more comfortable ride at cruising speeds from around 80 to 130 kph, and better fuel consumption... Anyway I have the two diffs so I could just try them both and see what I like the best, but I only have one LSD so I need to figure out what diff I should mount that one to, I am contemplating the thought of installing the 3.36 with the obx helical for regular use and getting a second hand 1,5 or 2 way lsd to put in the 3.9 for trackday events...

I searched, seems this diff is the sh**... Guess I'll be using it Shipping to US would be a killer, but I guess for someone it would be worth it

Indeed he did.... Will this diff make my Z a complete hog to drive compared to the 3.9 I have installed now?

Need a video of that I have cut and sectioned the transmission crossmember so that it fits the T5 transmission today, only need to add some bracing to it before I can install it.

Bringing this topic back again as I have another question, this time about differentials... I have been thinking all along that my turbo diff is a 3.5 as it says so in the service manuals(but those are for the US and Canada version) I have, so I was slightly put off when I unbolted the diff cover and found that the crown wheel had the numbers 37:11 stamped, which equates to a 3.36 final drive. This also a US/EU difference?

Seems the boot isn't my biggest problem as when I jacked the transmission up to it's final mounting position the shifter is now hitting the console, did you have to modify yours to engage the 1,3,5 gears? I have NO clearance from the center console to the shifter when the shifter is in neutral.

I bought the same springs from MSA, ride quality is really good compared to other manufacturers. But I am however slightly dissapointed at the drop, but they say 280Z's are higher than other S30's stock? I don't have anything to compare with since my old springs where chopped when I bought the car and hence the reason I bought lowering springs... I do have a picture of it right after I installed them, they have settled a little bit more but not much. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8z-pDwh1AgA/UctbfAVxnFI/AAAAAAAAAk0/HWJ5rqgmdxA/w976-h549-no/DSC_0136.jpg

BIG 'OL THREAD REVIVAL! going on here now, but why make a new one with the same topic..? My problem is after installing the mustang short shifter and re-installing the inner rubber boot(280Z item), when putting the shifter in 1st, 3rd or 5th gear position the rubber boot drags a little on the shifter stick causing it to get pulled back slightly, I fear it will cause the transmission to jump out of gear as soon as I let off the gaspedal once I get the car on the road... Anyone else running a similar setup in their S30? What did you do with the shifter boot if anything? Here you see the S30 and the S130 on the same page, you can see the S30 one is slanted back, causing it to pull on the stick when you put it forward... http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=2 I'm thinking the ZX inner boot must be better?

Swapped the stock 4-speed for the zx turbo 5 speed... Now I just need to get a transmission crossmember made and the driveshaft shorten Should have my mustang t5 short shifter at the post office tomorrow so it's all coming together a little by little

There's one on ebay now, diff housing and all for 600 USD, 700 incl shipping to New Jersey, and then I'd have to get it shipped NJ to Norway, adding more money and then paying 25% sales tax on it ones it arrives here and all of a sudden a quaife or nismo unit would have been cheaper And I would have another diff housing taking up space in my garage.... Z32 vlsd's are around $2-300 so yeah, why pay 600 for a z31 when an obx is 400.... What is your experience with the obx in terms of handling and sideways action compared to the stock open and a vlsd? My only hands on experience with lsd's is from my previous Z32 TT 2+2 and it worked good for my use, but I haven't tried anything else so... But the obx unit is becoming more and more tempting just for the ease of installation and availability...

You sure? Some of the vlsd centers on ebay had close up pictures of the input splines and I'm sure I counted 29 splines there... If I need to mix and match different axles to make something fit it would pretty soon add up to the cost of an obx or something aftermarket as I would have to import all og this from overseas, you just dont find Z's at the wreckers here in Norway... But a clutch diff from a z31 is bolt in right?

Also among my options along with the other aftermarket ones like kaaz, quaife, cusco and so on, but I was mainly curious about the OEM options to begin with

Hi guys, I recently swapped from a L28E to a L28ET and in the process managed to loose a couple of the turbo spark plugs. So I decided to just use the ones from the L28E. L28E has the NGK BR6-ES, the L28ET should use the BPR6-ES according to the owners manual, whats the difference? Any dire consequenses of running the turbo engine with the n/a plugs?