spiff

I have a euro l28et so I don't have the optical distributor but what I did when it wouldn't start was to check the engine timing. Since it was firing but backfiring trough the intake I knew that valves where not closed when the combustion occured, this led me to the timing of the engine itself. I removed the rocker cover and distributor and turned the engine over untill cyl1 was at tdc, then I checked that the camshaft was in the right position and that the timing marks on the chain and camsprocket lined up(note that you might need to turn the engine a couple of times to tdc for the marks to line up). Then I checked the position of the halfmoon on the dizzyshaft, which at tdc should be at approx. 11:25 position. So everything was fine with the engine timing, I then put the distributor back on, but without the cap so I could see the rotor and thats when I found the fault, because the rotor was pointing backwards(toward cyl6) when at TDC it should point straight ahead towards the radiator. At that point it was just a matter of putting the nr1 ht lead on the cyl6 position of the dizzycap and installing the rest of the leads in a counterclockwise fashion. When you installed your oilpump and shaft, was the the engine at TDC? Did you check that the half moon was at the 11:25 position after installing? Here's how it should look like: Come to think of it the shaft for an optical dizzy might not look like this?

But won't the ecu throw a fault code and run in limp mode if it's not getting an o2 input? Or are you using a wideband with a simulated narrowband outbput?

Hehe, yeah that works too I have a friend who might be willing to sell me all the stuff on the cyl.head like coils plus ptu, cas, throttlebody with tps sensor and the maf... then I would only need the ecu, an o2 sensor and the wiring loom and that should be enough to get it running? Or am I missing something else? Except injectors and temperaturesensors but I already have that on my car...

Are they worth it? I'm looking for a way to upgrade my efi system for smoother and better driveability as I find the 30 year old efi system is kinda rough... I was thinking of going full standalone engine managament but that's gonna break my wallet, so I see there are some manufacturers providing fuel only controllers, like the microtech lt-4 for example. I was just wondering if something like that would be enough, I'm not gonna do to much in terms of modifying my engine, just install a new turbo off a rb25 and an intercooler system. So I guess I will be needing slightly more fuel.

Ok thanks, what about idling, do you use the stock idle control or have you fitted the aac valve or something so the ecu controls idle?

Yes, I know how it mounts I was more curious if you had modified the internals of the CAS in anyway, like the CA18DET cam spins clockwise whereas the the Z18DET distributor shaft spins counterclokwise(and so the L-engine to right?) and therefore the disc inside the cas must be flipped for it to provide a normal signal if used on a Z or L engine. Did you have to do this or does the VG engine spin counterclockwise?

I see, I would probably have to ADD stuff to my wiring harness if doing such a thing, or find a used Rb or VG harness to hack up. Did you have to flip the disc inside the cas for it to work properly on the L28 or does the stock VG CAS spin the "right" way stock? If you are using non-oem coils are you controlling them by using the wires that would have gone to the PTU to trigger the coils? What about firing order, both ignition and injectors, i see on the web the VG firing order is 123456, did you just rearrange the ignition and injector wiring to suit the L28's 153624 firing order?

cool, I would love to hear more about this if you would elaborate a little bit ? Do you have any pictures of this setup? Have you done anything else to the wiring harness, what wiring harness are you using? Are you using the stock maf or the z32 one? The Z32 is a coil-on-plug type ignition, are you also using this ?

I want to put my rb25det turbo on my engine, but the rb turbo runs .7 bar of boost in stock form, the stock l28et turbo runs a .4 bar. Does the stock efi system run rich enough to support the extra .3 bars of boost? My old CA18DET ran stupid rich in stock form and even upping the boost by .2 the engine wasn't leaning out... Same story with the Z32 TT and other turbo nissans, same story with the L28ET? I don't have any wideband installed at the moment but it's on my list of things to buy asap. I want to install the rb turbo now but not if it's gonna make the engine lean out and go bang.

Just out of curiosity, I remembered reading about a Z18ET with a CA18DET efi system (http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=27957&hilit=ca18det+cas) so i was thinking if maybe the efi system off a rb25det could be retrofitted to a L28ET? The CA and RB engines are basically the same right? And there are similarities between the Z engine and the L engine... One would need the CAS, the maf, coilpacks with ptu, tps or the whole throttlebody for that matter, an o2 sensor.... anything else ? If anybody wonders why i'm thinking this way it's because I'm looking for cheaper alternatives to a full standalone engine management, plus I like the challenge of doing somthing not commonly done. I'm not saying that a complete rb efi setup plus nistune will be cheaper than a aftermarket system but it doesn't hurt to check it out I think. I know some people swap the ecu on the L28ET for a Z31 unit and swap the CAS disk from the VG dizzy into the L dizzy, but I have a eurospec L28ET which is about the dumbest thing around and is fuel only with no cas or any sort of ignition controll... That means for the Z31 conversion I would need to get a hold of a complete Z31 efi setup also, which I can't find, but RB parts and wiring are easier found I see on ebay f.ex...

I have hooked it up but I'm not getting a signal, altough the vss tested out fine on the bench. Is it as simple as the vss is installed 180 degrees wrong? Edit: nevermind, just a bad connection between the vss and speedhut wiring...

Hi, what size fuse should I install for the power supply to my ECU? I no longer have the fusible link since swapping to the L28ET with harness and I guess I should have a fuse to protect the ecu....

I have the eibach springs in my 280Z, very happy with them. Probably the best for normal street driving, but I have also taken my Z to a track event and they fared well.

If anyone needs to order these the part number is 1171420159 for the flexible pipe and 6039950565 for the clamp. I have ordere 2 pipes and 4 clamps, should have them by friday so we'll see how it goes

Whats wrong with a z32?

the red logo looks like the AutoGauge logo, they also have the opening ceremony on some of their gauges.

Just like the OP I have a chance of buying a stock rb25det turbo, slightly used, relatively cheap. Should I jump on it? Would it provide a nice upgrade compared to the stock L28ET turbo? (I'm thinking it does)

Yeah, I thought about it but thought to myself naaah, thats to short..... Okay, I'll buy the smaller bellow then I need two to complete my manifold right? I don't think the front one is leaking but if I need to remove the manifold(s) to change it then I might as well change both.

That old huh... Junkyards is a no go as there are none around here or anyplace nearby. Are you sure it's a 280 and not a 300? I have googled myself crazy but can't find anything regarding bellows on a 280, but searching for the 300TD I found this That bellow on the downpipe looks to be the thing im looking after doesn't it? Gonna call the mercedes dealer after the weekend and check if they are still produced.

Well it's not running at all at the moment as I have pulled the oil cooler and hoses trying to get some new hoses and fittings made up. But I have ordered an intercooler and one of those universal piping kits, have a bailey bov sitting infront of my pc which will go in when I get the piping and intercooler fitted and welded in place.

Thanks for the info, you wouldn't happen to know the year or if it's an E class or a C-class mercedes or something as I can't find anything searching this forum except for people wanting to turbodiesel their Z's.... :/

I'm also having trouble with my manifold, I'm pretty sure it's the manifold because the exhaust leak gets smaller as the engine warms up and thus something is expanding making the leak smaller. A leaking gasket would leak the same all the time wouldn't it? Anyways, I can't see under my manifold but I took some pictures with flash, I read here about some flexible hose? A v-clamp? What am I missing? When the manifold is cold I can twist and move the center pipe in/out sligtly.... Any good ideas for a solution here?

Hi guys, I have now installed my obx diff and I have a question for you, have anyone noticed their diffs getting louder after install, howling or whining? Mine is howling pretty loud in the 45-70kph area, disappears completely under or over that speed Problem is I can't compare with how it was before because I have never driven with this diff. Stock I had a 3.5 installed, then I bought a zx turbo engine and driveline and put the obx in the 3.36 diff and installed it in my car just recently. The car the diff came from had about 260-270 thousand km's on it so it's definetely got some mileage on it though....could it be a worn pinion bearing perhaps?

Funny.... how you read any other post in this thread except for my last one?

Wow! That's a comprehensive spreadsheet! A keeper for sure I have installed the BW T5, I also ended up installing the 3.36 rear with the obx helical, haven't had the chance to drive it all that much but the little I have driven it definetely feels promising... It sits at around 18-1900 rpm's when cruising at 80-90kph now versus 3000 before with the 4-speed. Much more comfortable but I also found myself braking speedlimits in urban areas as the wider gearing means I'm now going way to fast if giving it some beans when upshifting to 3rd, need to be careful. It's also a blast going up the steep mountains, seems to pull forever The only other thing I'm gonna try is swap the 75W-90 gear oil for dexron 3 type to see if it makes a difference for the better as I feel shifting isn't as crisp and snappy... I read this and it seems dexron is the way to go: http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/