Autismisakiller

I did drain the fuel and added new gas prior to the pump going out. When I replace the pump I will go ahead and drain the tank once again and inspect the old gas prior to installing the new pump. After that I will refill with fresh gas again.

Thanks for the help guys I will make those changes today. Did everything else look right? Unfortunately it looks like my fuel pump is now bad. When I replaced the the fuel filter I powered the fuel pump directly from the battery and it worked. Now, I have tried a few different ways and even ended up running wires straight from the fuel pump to the battery and it won't kick on. Not sure what happened but looks like I will be trying to source a new one tomorrow.

It's been a year or so since I tried to start it. As for changes, I listed the recent changes in my post. I didn't even think of the fuel pump possibly being backwards. I will go back tomorrow and check the wiring since I did wire up the O2, maybe something got unplugged or swapped.

So here is my current situation and recent work: L28ET - 83 Turbo dizzy MS2 with BIP373 Stock fuel rail and what appear to be stock injectors. Changed oil and filter. Changed the fuel filter and powered the fuel pump to make sure I was getting fuel to that point. Set the engine to ~TDC and pulled the distributor apart to check the rotor position. Locked the cas back down in the middle on the range. Pictures of the cas gear and rotor are here. Recently replaced all the plugs, wires, and coil. Checked and I am getting spark. Checked the signal at the injectors and I am getting signal (verified with light like in the FSM). Wired up and calibrated the Wideband O2. Calibrated all the engine sensors. Tweaked some of the MS settings per a bunch of research. A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away... I was able to get the car to start and run crappy for a few minutes. I didn't get a chance to get a timing light on it prior to it dying. I have included the old logs and msq as well. Other than software the next step I plan to take is pulling injectors and making sure fuel is actually spraying. I did pull a plug and it didn't look wet with fuel or have any carbon so it would seem like I may not be getting fuel to the chamber. Can you guys take a look at my logs and tune to see if I am missing something? CurrentTune 7-6-17.zip

Anyone have instagram and speak Spanish? Translating everything is a bit difficult. Looks like this is/was/may be the owner. https://www.instagram.com/yoshi_yokota/ Here are some more pics it's a 2jz swapped 240z https://www.instagram.com/p/xZUgH0Kdjv/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BBGi0FmKds0/

Also interested. What's still available?

I checked timing a while back but I went and bought a new timing light today so I should be able to check it tomorrow morning. I also changed the ignition input to falling edge.

I believe I am using a 240sx TPS Again I appreciate the help very much! NewTuneAndLogs.zip

Can anyone take a look at my datalog and tune give me some advice one getting my running better. I got it to run and throttle up but then it died after some throttling. The motor is pretty much stock and I am using a MS2 3.57 with the newest firmware and a DIY trigger wheel with stock coil. TuneAndLogs.zip

Moved thanks metro

Thanks for the information. I just ordered a DIY trigger wheel for the dizzy and I am using a 280z or a 280zx coil, plugs and wires. My setup as of right now is pretty much stock. Do you have the ignition/cranking settings that you could screen capture? I want to make sure I have everything setup correctly. After I get it started I will run VEAL.

Ok so I should build it like this then? I guess I miss the pull up resistor earlier I thought it was a different set up. "V3.57 board - VR Input with pullup for hall sensors, GM LS2/58X, optical sensors or points a) Find JP1 in the bottom right of the board. Place a jumper across positions 1 and 2 Find J1 in the middle of the board. Place a jumper across positions 3 and 4 c) Install a 1k resistor (any value 470R - 2k2 is likely ok) onto the pads marked R57 d) With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, 7 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) and then turn R56 back about 2 turns clockwise." And BIP373 jumpers are still the way I describe with IGBTIN to JS10 and no jumper between IGBTOUT and IGN correct? ---------edited Or do I already have the pull up resistor because this is the way I wired it up? --------added Splice into the 12v trace near the db37 and then on the other side of the burn by about an inch and then soldered in a jumper. Also did the same from just before db37 pin 36 to pin 2 of q16. Q16 pin 1 looks like it survived but I added a new jumper from IGBTIN to JS10 anyways. Q16 pin 3 = checked continuity between it and other grounds on the transistors that are mounted to the heatshink and looked good and that is what I am supposed to have there right? I will post pics of the finished repair if anyone wants.

Ok so I checked continuity and it seems fine but I will clean it up and make some repairs to the board tomorrow after work. First, Q16 pin 3 should go to R43, right? Where is R43? I need to check the continuity on that line. I also don't think the jumpers are correct. I have one from JS10 to IGBTIN but I don't see one for IGBTOUT to IGN. Where are those two at? Q16 pin 2 should be IGBTOUT correct? So I need to know where IGN is. The board is a 3.57 with MS2 3.01 daughter. I can send more pics if needed. I am going by the write up on DIYautotune by mobythevan where he says, "Using the MS-II PCBv3 ECU Build the ECU up to trigger from the Hall/Optical Input (all of my MS230-C units are by default configured this way). The only change is to enable the IGBT High Current Ignition Coil Driver Circuit to directly drive the coil. Remove the jumper from JS10 to IGN (if exists) Jumper IGBTIN to JS10 Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN That's it!" What did I miss? If mobys write up doesn't work for 3.57 is there anyone that can point me in the right direction? I have spent all day searching for answers. -------------edited I just figured out I don't need the jumper between igbtout and ign on 3.57 Can anyone tell me the resistance of pin 3 and what it is connected to though? After reading more I believe it's still in working order and I will just clean it up and repair it a little. Also what type of ignition wheel should I select in TunerStudio?

I have been trying to get my 280z running again. I moved and changed jobs so it's been a while but finally getting back into it. I check all my wiring again and everything seems to be right. So I figured that I would check the board to make sure the jumpers were in the right place(I bought the car with the MS2 half ass installed and the wiring was shot). Anyways this is what I found. I am not sure if it will still work or not. It boots and lets me upload msqs to it and it does try to start. Also does anyone have the stock ignition and other setting I need to getting it running? I am using a 83zxt cas(360 slots). I appreciate the help. Also anyone in/near Waco, TX?

Anymore news of the build?