ianz

Does the $550 from Ross include pins and rings??

I just picked up the Carbotech pads, they will be in prior to the Motorsport autoX. The folks at Carbotech seem knowledgable and were very helpfull.. front pads were $99 and should handle a years worth of auto Xs and a couple open track events plus street driving so now I've got to fix my Rotors and calipers Thanks for the info everyone!!

Wow, sounds good...... I'm interested as well Ian

Hey everyone, anymore thoughts on pad choices?? I've got stock brakes on my 71 and run BSP class solo 2 and 1 or 2 open track events a year, but the car is still street driven A LOT.... I'm using carbotechs right now, but had a seal let loose on the front left, soaking the pads, so time for a new set..... Also, anybody seen the ads for brake true, on car rotor turning??? Basically a REALLY coarse grit sand paper sandwiched between new pads and the rotor. You apply the brakes and grind the rotor smooth and true. seems pretty shaky to me.... thanks in advance.... Ian

late 71 240 L28 w/ SUs 5sp w/ R180 adj coilovers w/ 2.5in ID springs stock interior with 20 lbs worth of amp and speakers 15" wheels w/ BFG 225 60 15s empty weight 2270 lbs add 30lbs for the R200 your gonna need and that gives you 200lbs to play with for the Turbo/IC/ etc.... if you want a feather weight make shure you get a 70/early 71, then you can probably cut 300lbs out of the car with carbon/fiberglass body/lexan windows/gutted interior/light weight wheels!! but I don't think its worth it.... 2500 for a turbo 240 is a good mark without all the hassle, and lets you keep some creature comforts good luck with your toy!! cheers, Ian

Hey guys, I will try to take some picks of the kick panel boxes on my 240..... but a quick note in the mean time, if you have a 240 w/o AC there is room to fab boxes fastenned directly to the frame through the kick panel boards.....but on the later cars, I think there is a bunch of junk mounted in this area making it REALLY tricky to mount speaker boxes. As for imaging, I angled the front of the boxes such that the driver side faces the passenger and the pass side faces the driver. the boxes are sealed enclosures using madisound component speakers and sized specifically for the Vf of the 5.25 mids(check out madisound.com) I'm currently working on a sub for the spare tire bay.... This worked out really slick for me, but thats just me..... cheers, Ian

If those are what I think they are, it would allow you to use your stock half shalves with an R200 LSD unit out of a 300zx instead of having to convert to cvs.....notice the clip ring groove on the end of the stubs... I would be REALLY excited if they were available for the R180 as well because then we could drop in 4.11 R180s out of 200SXs to our 240Zs ALL DAY LONG! uhhhhhhh oh I'm drooling

I put one of these on my 71 (BSP prepared L28 motor) and had a heck of a time with it. There were MAJOR interference issues between the oil pickup tube and the pan both with the windage tray and the pan itself....I also had to grind relieve around the baffle doors to keep them from hanging up. After a 6 hour assembly,/rework job (I did it with the engine in the car) I finally finished and have been running with it ever since......I haven't had any further problems, and it served its purpose given no more oil pressure loss on big sweepers. In other words, do the install with the engine OUT of the car, and be prepared to do some cleanup/rework to it as well. See you at the next all Datsun Tractor pull!!

hey zline, give a bit more info with your posts please......i.e. which tranny for which rear??? and there are HUGE #s of Z guys in So Call, show up to a group z meeting some time...... A good rule of thumb for a N/A Z IMO is to find out what tranny you have and what rear ratio it was originally mated too and bump up to the next available ratio, in other words 72 thru 75 4 speed had a 3.36 so use a 3.54 (not recomended for street but the best option for autoXing in BSP class Solo 2 so they say....) 76-78 5 speed had a 3.54 so use a 3.7 (I had this setup using a Subi R160 LSD and liked it a lot on the street, but the 2nd to 3rd drop SUCKED for the trck) 79-83 5speed had a 3.9 and the 81-83 version tranny has a .74 5th gear, so I may try using a 4.38 rear over the 4.11....haven't decided but this tranny is said to be the most robust and has nice even gear spacing...... As far as the T5 goes, from what I understand, it came with a 3.54 rear and needs to be kept that way, especially for a turbo Cheers, Ian

Hey John, Thanks for waiting yesterday, that traffic SUCKED Did you get your distributer cap??? Is the car running?? Let me know when you want to come by, I'll tune your carbs for ya!! cheers, Ian

Hey John, Thanks for waiting yesterday, that traffic SUCKED Did you get your distributer cap??? Is the car running?? Let me know when you want to come by, I'll tune your carbs for ya!! cheers, Ian

I'm all for supporting VB and Motorsport, but they jack you pretty hard on the bushing kit.... check this out...http://www.suspension.com/part_order.htm and save a few $$$$ cheers

I'm all for supporting VB and Motorsport, but they jack you pretty hard on the bushing kit.... check this out...http://www.suspension.com/part_order.htm and save a few $$$$ cheers

Hey Guys, All of the older Subaru’s (meaning junk yard donors so pre 1990 or so) have R160 differentials IDENTICAL in mounting envelope to the r160 in the 510s. As John C. mentioned, newer ones may have r180s, but they won't be in the junk yards for poor people like me yet... So I don't know The r160 in 510s have the same mounting points and coupling points (drive shaft and half shafts) as the r180 in the 240s so if you have an r180 setup in the 240 you can swap it directly with the 510 r160. If you pick up a Subaru r160 (I'm assuming the LSD unit) you have to swap out the front companion flange and the stub axles with parts from a datsun r160 or r180 (The r160 has the correct dust shield placement on the stub axles, but the r180s will work). The stub axles splines seam to be slightly different between the subi and the datsun rears resulting in a little play in the datsun stubs when used in the subi rear......or it may just be mines wore out.... unless your using the LSD subi rear, I would not replace an r180 with an r160. open r160s may not be beefy enough…jury’s still out on that one….. if your putting this in a 280 with an r200 then you will need the 240 mustache bar, front mount, front coupler, in other words....ITS A PAIN!!) but it is about 25 pounds lighter than the r200 just my two cents....Ian

Thanks for the info everyone, Just to clarify, I have a T4/ T04E NOT a T3/T04E hybrid so the turbine side of the turbo is larger, thus I should be able to come on to the boost smoothly with breathing room on the top end..........and yes the TO4E Compresor map for AR .50 shows 37 lb/min @ a pressure ratio of 2.4 (14.7X2.4=Total-14.7=20psi boost...please correct me if I'm wrong) with 78% efficiency. According to Kenny Bell your looking at about 10HP/lb/min so about 370hp. So if thats the case, do I need to go with forged pistons?? Does it make sense to tear the motor down and turn it in to a stroker, or just consentrate on injection/ignition/exhaust/intercooler and run the stock turbo motor?? Yea Yea, I know so many questions, I just love talkin tech!! Thanks again!! Cheers, Ian

Sorry for the double post Also, I was mistaken with the performance specs on the turbo, it should be 37 lb/min at a pressure ratio of 2.4 (i.e. about 20psi) and still be in the 78% efficiency zone..... cheers, Ian

Hello everyone, This thread could not have come at a better time, given that I just bought a Turbo for a future project, so I had a few questions looming after I read through the 3 pages of posts......(All pertaining to the Garrett units) 1. Are T3 and T4 designations for the size of the center section and turbine diameter?? if not then what is the specific difference between T3 and T4?? 2. Is the T04_ designation (i.e. T04E, T04B, etc..) describing the TYPE of compressor being used?? 3. The turbo I purchased is a Garrett T4 T04E Compressor A/R .50 Turbine A/R .69 O trim this is what I was told when I bought it, and addition information cast on the compressor housing is "A/R .50 M-12" and on the turbine "A/R .69 M 1" So based on this information, what is the trim designator describing (O versus P....etc...) and have I stated the specs of the Turbo correctly?? Is there a tech paper on the web that describes all of this terminology that someone can reference rather than having to waste time answering all of these questions??? Finally, I am planning on using this turbo on an L28T motor w/ a stroker crank, forged pistons and approx 7.5:1 compression. Injection/Ignition will be aftermarket (Tech 3, SDS, Magasquirt, etc...). Sufficient intercooler and 3" exhaust. I called a local shop and discussed this with them and have reviewed the map for the T04E .50 and based on this found that the turbo should produce 47 lb/min (thus 470 hp) @ 78% efficiency and the 3.1L motor should have sufficient flow volume to spool the turbo nicely... what do you think?? Thanks very much in advance for your info/expertise!! Ian

Hello everyone, This thread could not have come at a better time, given that I just bought a Turbo for a future project, so I had a few questions looming after I read through the 3 pages of posts......(All pertaining to the Garrett units) 1. Are T3 and T4 designations for the size of the center section and turbine diameter?? if not then what is the specific difference between T3 and T4?? 2. Is the T04_ designation (i.e. T04E, T04B, etc..) describing the TYPE of compressor being used?? 3. The turbo I purchased is a Garrett T4 T04E Compressor A/R .50 Turbine A/R .69 O trim this is what I was told when I bought it, and addition information cast on the compressor housing is "A/R .50 M-12" and on the turbine "A/R .69 M 1" So based on this information, what is the trim designator describing (O versus P....etc...) and have I stated the specs of the Turbo correctly?? Is there a tech paper on the web that describes all of this terminology that someone can reference rather than having to waste time answering all of these questions??? Finally, I am planning on using this turbo on an L28T motor w/ a stroker crank, forged pistons and approx 7.5:1 compression. Injection/Ignition will be aftermarket (Tech 3, SDS, Magasquirt, etc...). Sufficient intercooler and 3" exhaust. I called a local shop and discussed this with them and have reviewed the map for the T04E .50 and based on this found that the turbo should produce 47 lb/min (thus 470 hp) @ 78% efficiency and the 3.1L motor should have sufficient flow volume to spool the turbo nicely... what do you think?? Thanks very much in advance for your info/expertise!! Ian

hello PhaTTy and welcome to Hybrid Z Your question is not the normal type to be asked on this forum, as most are looking to improve the handling of their car, not the ride.... but to answer your ? the differences between the Z and the ZX suspension are numerous, to the point that they cannot be compared. The front end of the Z uses a swing arm and compression rod where the ZX uses a swing arm with a tension rod, not a huge differense but still different, the rear of the Z uses a swing arm where the ZX uses a trailing arm, this is a big difference!! Ususally the ZXes have a smoother ride, but sacrafise performance, so you statements lead me to believe that A) someone has modified the ZX suspension to improve handling thus sacraficing ride quality the suspension on your ZX is so badly degraded that it no longer functions correctly. if your ZX seems more shure footed on the road that the Z your comparing it too then I would say it's choice A, if it feels sloppy, ilmannered and hard to control, I would suspect choice B. In addition, what size/series of tire are you using on your ZX. If you've got 17" rims with 50 series tires your ride will DEFINATELY be more harsh than if it has the stock 14s with 70 series tires. hope this helps. Ian

hello PhaTTy and welcome to Hybrid Z Your question is not the normal type to be asked on this forum, as most are looking to improve the handling of their car, not the ride.... but to answer your ? the differences between the Z and the ZX suspension are numerous, to the point that they cannot be compared. The front end of the Z uses a swing arm and compression rod where the ZX uses a swing arm with a tension rod, not a huge differense but still different, the rear of the Z uses a swing arm where the ZX uses a trailing arm, this is a big difference!! Ususally the ZXes have a smoother ride, but sacrafise performance, so you statements lead me to believe that A) someone has modified the ZX suspension to improve handling thus sacraficing ride quality the suspension on your ZX is so badly degraded that it no longer functions correctly. if your ZX seems more shure footed on the road that the Z your comparing it too then I would say it's choice A, if it feels sloppy, ilmannered and hard to control, I would suspect choice B. In addition, what size/series of tire are you using on your ZX. If you've got 17" rims with 50 series tires your ride will DEFINATELY be more harsh than if it has the stock 14s with 70 series tires. hope this helps. Ian

Wow, that's what I call LOCAL!! I can make it down there on my lunch hour!! I will check it out Thanks a bunch. Ian

I smell Honda!! But pick up some spacers from Ross C and your good to go.... PS did you beat up your friend for selling you the bogus R200 LSD??

Hey Everyone just a quick warning about using the Subaru R160 diff.... You need to replace the front coupler with a Datsun coupler from an R160 or R180 (They are the same) but when doing so you must torque the nut back on and can screw up the backlash spacing of the ring and pinion by compressing the crush spacer on the pinion shaft (i.e $150 reshim in my case) Is there any way around this?? Also, the r180 stubs are longer but seem to work (the dust cap just hangs out beyond where it should be ) but the spline are slightly different causing the datsun stubs to have a little rotational play. Has anyone addressed these problems?? Where do I get a datsun diff rebuilt in the LA area?? How much should it cost??

OK John, So when do we get to see this monster in action?? And who are you going to get to drive it?? POKE POKE....Just Kidding!! Hollywood Park this weekend, I'll be there, will you?? I hope so.... Cheers, Ian

Where can I find rebuild parts (or better yet, kits) for R160, R180 and R200 rear ends?? i.e. new bearings and seals Thanks in advance Ian