Jump to content
HybridZ

Gmagno

Members
  • Posts

    71
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by Gmagno

  1. 13 hours ago, silverado22c said:

    I would set up the lower control arm at about where it would live most it's life.  Use an old alignment tool that connects to the wheel and uses bubbles, magnetic camber/cast king pin gauge, if you don't have access to an alignment machine.  Probably some circle track guys still use them if you don't want to buy 1.  Just because it seems your LCA is all the way in and your tension rod and tie rod look to being a bit further out.  Then measure like the others say for another sway bar or bend it to fit.

     

    Can't quite tell, but it seems you have slightly positive camber even in the pics.  I don't know on Datsun's, as I've never aligned 1, if negative 3 degrees is 1/4" out or 3/4" out on the adjusting sleeve.  But as it seems you have it on a stand, would need to either set on the ground or somehow get the hub and suspension to ride height for proper alignment.

     

    Is this what you are suggesting? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FM9GMH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MfBtDbMR9QH39

     

    4 hours ago, JMortensen said:

    Just pull the springs and jack the control arms until they're level, and that should be close to ride height. Can check bumpsteer while you're in there. 

     

    Sometimes the obvious is overlooked. Thanks for this, it jump started my brain cells again.

  2. 31 minutes ago, silverado22c said:

    I've done many alignments, mostly on Land Rovers and some other vehicles.  The amount of movement is minimal to get a big degree change for camber, not like you would be adjusting the lower control arms out an inch or more.  You could probably get a few degrees at about 1/2" or under.  Even race cars are not really going over 5*, you'll probably end up setting it up at 2 to maybe 3 degrees, 4 at most if you can really drive.

     

    Wondering if after I stretch the sway bar to fit if I can still get more stretch by adjusting the LCA the way it's currently mounted?

  3. 9 minutes ago, TUME said:

    Are those square frame tubes same width than originally? If so, i bet you have wider inner lca pick-up points than originally. 

    Are you done that frame by yourself? Why fabricate tube frame and maintain original geometry? I would add caster at least because you can with than kind of modding.

     

    Nothing is original and everything modded from 1970. Some things replaced the same due to deterioration. We kept the same specs on width.

  4. 23 hours ago, jhm said:

    Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"?  If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings.

     

    Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be?  Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.

     

    Found out the LCA's are from Silvermine. Checking with Edan now.

  5. 1 hour ago, jhm said:

    Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"?  If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings.

     

    Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be?  Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.

     

    I am, but haven't yet. just don't know how the lower control arm can be adjusted out any with sway bar installed, being as tight as it will be once I get it to fit. Didn't call Dave yet. Looking for feedback and planned on sending him a link to this thread.

  6. Mocking up the front suspension on the race car and ran into an issue. Sway bar is too short to match up with Arizona Z lower control arm mounts. Logic tells me i can narrow the distance by drilling another hole and move the lower control arm in an inch on each side. Dimensions of another 1973 240Z I have below along with current 1970 240Z race car. My question is, if I narrow the distance to fit the sway bar, how narrow to allow lower control arm adjustments and will the sway bar stretch? Thanks in advance for the help.

     

    1973 240 Z Stock                  1970 240Z  Race car

    51" font rotor to rotor W.      51 1/4"

    39" sway bar pin to pin.        40 1/2"

    52" rear rotor to rotor W.      52"

     

    20190807_125134.jpg

  7. Made the dash out of 1/8 stainless, still need to finish, and mocked up the rear suspension. The bolt heads on the diff are putting pressure on the front factory mount. I will check on shorter head bolts or possibly purchase this from TTT https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/r180r200-long-nose-front-differential-mount . After installing the Silvermine rear control arms, sway bar bushings are too short and the retaining cap sits on the control arms. Checking with Edan for a longer set of bushings available that eliminate this issue or will need to source.

     

    Decided to abandon the Wilwood brakes given the age and need for rebuild since i already had the new parts below sitting around. Working on welding up the BC Racing coilovers and mocking up the front suspension next. 

     

    SILVERMINE BRAKES:
    1 - 15/16 master cylinder $185.00
    1 - 240z, 260z, 280z Rear Brake Upgrade Disk Conversion Kit Front Big Brake Kit (stage 3) $395.00
    1 - S30 Rear Disk Conversion $599.00

     

    SUMMIT RACING:

    1 - STQ-50100 FRONT ANTI-SWAYBAR $162.50
    1 - STQ-51075 REAR ANTI-SWAYBAR $146.50

     

    AMAZON:

    Quickcar Racing Products 61-6751 4-1 Gauge Panel w/5in Tach $364.95
    Quickcar Racing Products 50-864 Ignition Panel $112.85

     

     

    20181215_181020.jpg

    20190111_145333.jpg

    20190305_160840.jpg

    20190305_160858.jpg

    20190305_160915.jpg

     

    20190305_161017.jpg

    20190305_161036.jpg

    20190305_161051.jpg

    20190305_161101.jpg

    20190305_161118.jpg

    20190305_161126.jpg

    20190305_161149.jpg

    20190305_161207.jpg

    20190305_161228.jpg

    20190305_161252.jpg

    20190306_091916.jpg

    20190306_091925.jpg

    20190306_091939.jpg

     

     

  8. Help and advice needed please.

     

    I have searched everywhere and cannot find any info on this process. I want to shorten the steering column/shaft 3 inches for taller drivers. I have seperated the column, the top half is spring loaded, the inner shaft is male spline and connects to the bottom female shaft, 2 piece setup. Common sense tells me I need to cut the space between the dash mount and steering wheel. Worried about not getting the spring back in place properly after the cut/weld. I really don't want to screw this up since these columns are not off the shelf and not cheap. I just need someone to tell me its possible, or not. Thanks in advance for the help.

  9. Moving along now. Welded the bung for the removable steering wheel. Finished up the Nascar bars and lower rear valance replacement. Cleaning up older welds, sandblasting doors and hood. The next step is mocking up the doors. I bought used factory hinges so the doors can open rather than be removed, faster in the pits this way. After doors, hatch and hood are mocked up and working well its on to the suspension so we know what to do with the fender flares. 

     

     

    20181001_142254.jpg

    20181001_142436.jpg

    • Like 1
  10. 1 minute ago, clarkspeed said:

    Looking good.  I will be very interested to see how your weight comes out.  The shell I started with looked much like yours now.  It was missing firewall, all the floor tubing, work around the transmission tunnel, and no windshield.  But had a full cage and front tubing similar to yours.  It weighed in at 500lbs.  I really really want mine to come in < 2k.

     

    Thanks. I am hoping for the same but doubt it. My old blue Z was stock except the inside cage and weighed 2200. I am guessing this will be 2500.

×
×
  • Create New...