[BC Racing DR Series Coilover Opinions???]

12 hours ago, ///M3 & Z said:

Iv never heard of that brand MCA, anyone running it?

What did you use for spring rate? Did you also upgrade to swift springs?

 

 

DR Series Low Option. Build thread link. 

 

[BC Racing DR Series Coilover Opinions???]

10 hours ago, ///M3 & Z said:

How did it go with the BC racing coilovers? I'm considering a set of the BC racing DS for my car or possible the KW v3 depending on the price

 

Car is still in the mock up stage, slow going. I read enough to choose these. Pull the trigger and don't look back.

[Z-Envy Race Car - Champ Car Series]

Moving along on the suspension and engine mock up. Slow going.......

 

 

 

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

From Edan at Silvermine. I will flip them whi week and post the outcome. 

 

"Looking at the pic, I think you need to flip the LCA. the flat side should be facing up. But I don't know why the sway bar is so narrow. weird." 

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

15 hours ago, silverado22c said:

Yep, something like that.  Plus you could use it at the track if really wanting to make changes, not always having to rely and the downtime running to an alignment shop.

 

Thanks @silverado22c, I will post once I get it and attempt the changes. Thanks to everyone for the replies.

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

13 hours ago, silverado22c said:

I would set up the lower control arm at about where it would live most it's life.  Use an old alignment tool that connects to the wheel and uses bubbles, magnetic camber/cast king pin gauge, if you don't have access to an alignment machine.  Probably some circle track guys still use them if you don't want to buy 1.  Just because it seems your LCA is all the way in and your tension rod and tie rod look to being a bit further out.  Then measure like the others say for another sway bar or bend it to fit.

 

Can't quite tell, but it seems you have slightly positive camber even in the pics.  I don't know on Datsun's, as I've never aligned 1, if negative 3 degrees is 1/4" out or 3/4" out on the adjusting sleeve.  But as it seems you have it on a stand, would need to either set on the ground or somehow get the hub and suspension to ride height for proper alignment.

 

Is this what you are suggesting? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FM9GMH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MfBtDbMR9QH39

 

4 hours ago, JMortensen said:

Just pull the springs and jack the control arms until they're level, and that should be close to ride height. Can check bumpsteer while you're in there. 

 

Sometimes the obvious is overlooked. Thanks for this, it jump started my brain cells again.

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

31 minutes ago, silverado22c said:

I've done many alignments, mostly on Land Rovers and some other vehicles.  The amount of movement is minimal to get a big degree change for camber, not like you would be adjusting the lower control arms out an inch or more.  You could probably get a few degrees at about 1/2" or under.  Even race cars are not really going over 5*, you'll probably end up setting it up at 2 to maybe 3 degrees, 4 at most if you can really drive.

 

Wondering if after I stretch the sway bar to fit if I can still get more stretch by adjusting the LCA the way it's currently mounted?

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

4 minutes ago, JMortensen said:

Here's a crappy drawing on bending the bar. Just lay it over the base and push on the bend. Keep measuring eyelet to eyelet. Bend one side until they move 1" apart, then flip and do the same on the other side. 10 minutes max.
 

 

Thanks for the diagram, thought about this.

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

9 minutes ago, TUME said:

Are those square frame tubes same width than originally? If so, i bet you have wider inner lca pick-up points than originally. 

Are you done that frame by yourself? Why fabricate tube frame and maintain original geometry? I would add caster at least because you can with than kind of modding.

 

Nothing is original and everything modded from 1970. Some things replaced the same due to deterioration. We kept the same specs on width.

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

23 hours ago, jhm said:

Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"?  If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings.

 

Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be?  Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.

 

Found out the LCA's are from Silvermine. Checking with Edan now.

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

I appreciate all the replies and in hindsight should have posted these pics earlier. Let me know your thoughts. Biggest question again is, can I adjust the lower control arm out on each side if the sway bar is already stretched to the max width? Maybe the end links @silverado22c mentioned is my total solution?

 

 

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

1 hour ago, jhm said:

Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"?  If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings.

 

Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be?  Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.

 

I am, but haven't yet. just don't know how the lower control arm can be adjusted out any with sway bar installed, being as tight as it will be once I get it to fit. Didn't call Dave yet. Looking for feedback and planned on sending him a link to this thread.

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

I will upload more pics tomorrow. Sway Bar info here. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stq-50100/applications

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

1 minute ago, ZHoob2004 said:

Is that your T/C rod attached to your sway bar end link?

 

No, pic is deceiving, sway bar end link is leaning against caliper.

[1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue]

Mocking up the front suspension on the race car and ran into an issue. Sway bar is too short to match up with Arizona Z lower control arm mounts. Logic tells me i can narrow the distance by drilling another hole and move the lower control arm in an inch on each side. Dimensions of another 1973 240Z I have below along with current 1970 240Z race car. My question is, if I narrow the distance to fit the sway bar, how narrow to allow lower control arm adjustments and will the sway bar stretch? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

1973 240 Z Stock                  1970 240Z  Race car

51" font rotor to rotor W.      51 1/4"

39" sway bar pin to pin.        40 1/2"

52" rear rotor to rotor W.      52"

 

[Z-Envy Race Car - Champ Car Series]

Found smaller washers laying around. Sourcing larger flat washers that match bushing diameter.

 

 

[Z-Envy Race Car - Champ Car Series]

Made the dash out of 1/8 stainless, still need to finish, and mocked up the rear suspension. The bolt heads on the diff are putting pressure on the front factory mount. I will check on shorter head bolts or possibly purchase this from TTT https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/r180r200-long-nose-front-differential-mount . After installing the Silvermine rear control arms, sway bar bushings are too short and the retaining cap sits on the control arms. Checking with Edan for a longer set of bushings available that eliminate this issue or will need to source.

 

Decided to abandon the Wilwood brakes given the age and need for rebuild since i already had the new parts below sitting around. Working on welding up the BC Racing coilovers and mocking up the front suspension next. 

 

SILVERMINE BRAKES:
1 - 15/16 master cylinder $185.00
1 - 240z, 260z, 280z Rear Brake Upgrade Disk Conversion Kit Front Big Brake Kit (stage 3) $395.00
1 - S30 Rear Disk Conversion $599.00

 

SUMMIT RACING:

1 - STQ-50100 FRONT ANTI-SWAYBAR $162.50
1 - STQ-51075 REAR ANTI-SWAYBAR $146.50

 

AMAZON:

Quickcar Racing Products 61-6751 4-1 Gauge Panel w/5in Tach $364.95
Quickcar Racing Products 50-864 Ignition Panel $112.85
 

 

 

 

 

[Z-Envy Race Car - Champ Car Series]

13 hours ago, EvilC said:

Great to see another ChampCar Series Datsun being built.  

 

Thanks. Working on the interior dash, etc. at the moment. I found more metal work needed as I went along which has taken much longer than expected. In reality it may be another 6 months to complete. I will post more in a couple of weeks.

[1972 240Z Race Car Build]

6 hours ago, Stokked240z said:

Not to be a hater but it's been another three years. What's the update on the 70 240z race car??

Also awesome parts list! Much appreciated!

 

I apologize and have moved the thread. 

 

 

[Cut & Shorten 240Z Steering Column in Race Car]

12 hours ago, clarkspeed said:

I swapped in a Sweet column w flat steering wheel and adjustable mount. It will fit anyone.

 

Please share the details.

[Cut & Shorten 240Z Steering Column in Race Car]

12 hours ago, 260DET said:

You want to do the exact opposite to this taller driver who had to get an extension to keep the wheel close enough with the pedals as far away as practical. For mine it was all about getting the seat and driver back for better weight distribution.

 

Seat is all the way back, even modified/removed metal to extend further back that stock.

[Cut & Shorten 240Z Steering Column in Race Car]

Help and advice needed please.

 

I have searched everywhere and cannot find any info on this process. I want to shorten the steering column/shaft 3 inches for taller drivers. I have seperated the column, the top half is spring loaded, the inner shaft is male spline and connects to the bottom female shaft, 2 piece setup. Common sense tells me I need to cut the space between the dash mount and steering wheel. Worried about not getting the spring back in place properly after the cut/weld. I really don't want to screw this up since these columns are not off the shelf and not cheap. I just need someone to tell me its possible, or not. Thanks in advance for the help.

[Z-Envy Race Car - Champ Car Series]

Moving along now. Welded the bung for the removable steering wheel. Finished up the Nascar bars and lower rear valance replacement. Cleaning up older welds, sandblasting doors and hood. The next step is mocking up the doors. I bought used factory hinges so the doors can open rather than be removed, faster in the pits this way. After doors, hatch and hood are mocked up and working well its on to the suspension so we know what to do with the fender flares. 

 

 

[Z-Envy Race Car - Champ Car Series]

1 minute ago, clarkspeed said:

Looking good.  I will be very interested to see how your weight comes out.  The shell I started with looked much like yours now.  It was missing firewall, all the floor tubing, work around the transmission tunnel, and no windshield.  But had a full cage and front tubing similar to yours.  It weighed in at 500lbs.  I really really want mine to come in < 2k.

 

Thanks. I am hoping for the same but doubt it. My old blue Z was stock except the inside cage and weighed 2200. I am guessing this will be 2500.

[Z-Envy Race Car - Champ Car Series]

Sandblasting complete. Welding, welding, more welding, then nascar bar install before suspension mock up.