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Eddie 1979

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About Eddie 1979

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  • Location
    Vancouver
  1. I've been thinking that one way would be to cut out all the rust I can in that area, blast whatever I can, treat it and then weld on a cap the length of the yellow area on the bottom where the floor pan seam is. I know caps are not the ideal way to go but I wouldn't need to worry about structural integrity with this method. Good or bad idea?
  2. The new floor pans arrived and they look great, so I started to get things ready and unfortunately for me I found more rust along the rocker / floor seam, it has blown through in a couple of spots so I am pondering how to replace this section. The rest of the rocker seams okay so I am thinking of replacing the section between the yellow lines below. Some some questions for the gurus out there: My worry now is chassis strength, how much can I cut out ? The floor behind the seat bracket is still in The area (see below) is similar in shape to hat channel, should I fabricate the sam
  3. Man your car looks great, after the floors and interior my next job is to strip the body and repaint. I was thinking of grey or black, but maybe I should go back to roots...That 113 green and black trim is pretty damn sexy!
  4. Okay you guys have me sold, I'm in contact with Charlie and am going to order the proper floors. The wife was asking me what I wanted for Christmas good timing. I commenced with surgery today and removed the first section of the driver's side, the good news is the rails are in decent shape although there is some rust to grind out along the rocker. I might end up replacing the floor pan rails with stronger 1x3 box steel and link them up all the way to the back. I'm also going to cut high enough on the firewall so that I can get access to the front rails and clean them/treat them from t
  5. A buddy of mine is a sheet metal fabricator so I'm starting to lean towards a DIY floor pans like in this thread and perhaps followed up with Bad Dog rails (undecided): http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116988-diyhomemade-floor-pans/ If I do one side at I time, do I need to be concerned about bracing or and chassis flex? The car is up on blocks (below) and everything is assembled except for the interior, I'm thinking of the approach detailed on the following page where the main seat bracket is left in place: http://zhome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards.htm
  6. Yep I will follow your advice and try combine things into large patches. My worry is making the round bends and getting them all lined up. In the end it maybe less work to do entirely new floors out of flat sheet (as others have done). I wish we could get the premade patches that GM guys can get for $40 bucks Regardless I'll take some better pictures and start cutting one side this weekend!
  7. Hello, while in the midst of some electrical repairs I figured while I'm at it why not redo my interior. I'm almost done cleaning/grinding all of the tar and now its time for rust repair. I've been have been debating whether to weld in patches or put in new floors all together. However, given that I want to finish this relatively quickly and that this is my first welding project,patching with 18 gauge sheet metal seems like an acceptable approach. The smaller patches are straightforward, where I need advice is with the floor pan seams and seat brackets (pictures below): 1. Both the fro
  8. If you need to ship enclosed you could try BAT Motorsports. They are a husband and wife team with a smaller enclosed truck that can carry up to two vehicles (I think). I used them to ship my Z from San Antonio to Vancouver, nice people to deal with and reasonably priced. http://www.batsmotorsports.com/enclosed_faq.php
  9. Thanks for the link, lots of good shows/meets on that page. Further motivation for me to get my car through inspection and on the road for that August 30 round up!
  10. The base car you posted is a 2+2 ZX are you going with that or an S30?
  11. I've recently made two changes to my vehicle (240Z L28 ET): 1. Put the car up onto 17" high cribbing blocks so I can refresh the underbody. 2. Removed the master cylinder for replacement. I start the car up every week just to keep everything fluid (and as an excuse to listen to those L6 vocals). Uptil now I would have to hold down the peddle for a couple of minutes before if would idle smoothly on its own. After the two changes above I can pretty much turn the key and it idles fine without any throttle. Idle RPM is also just over 1k now, previously it was around 800. I haven'
  12. Now that would be a kickstarter project worth funding!
  13. I figured some folks might be interested in this Indiegogo project that is working on creating credit card sized device trackers. $50 bucks for three years, the main downside is there needs to be cell towers in the area for it to function. I'm going to pick up the 5 pack and stick them in my cars, if I had a kid I would equip them with one these too! https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/itraq-the-cellular-tracking-device
  14. Looks good! I'm going to be knee deep in epoxy primer soon enough, taking a little different approach though since I'll be sanding and spraying one panel at a time. Did you find that the makeshift booth was helpful? How critical did you find the dust free environment to be at the priming stage?
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