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  1. I have a L28ET exhaust manifold from a 83 280ZX Turbo, unit was made of three pieces, and put together with two bellows couplers. Here is a picture of the manifold in question, found on mrjeffzx xtreme Nissan 280zx Turbo page: https://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/images1/Euromanifold.jpg One of the bellows has a crack in it and needs to be replaced or if possible repaired. I don’t think it would be possible to weld it, at least not with my welding skills. I tried finding this part on RockAuto, eBay, FAST, Nissan4u and a couple if other sites without any luck. Not even a part number Therefor I thought I should try asking here for help. Maybe there are alternative ways of fixing this. Any suggestions are welcome. I have attached a picture of the damage (The white stuff is exhaust paste since I first thought it leaked around the clamps) Thanks...
  2. Hello! Looking for an N42, P90 or running l28et around Washington State. For an engine of same value; I have nearly a full LM7/CD009 swap, has a tune just starts and dies, r180/r200 1310 adapters (including new driveshaft and dirty Dingo engine mounts), decided to go back to the L28 instead (or another one of the other engines listed), more info if requested.
  3. Hey guys, I’m working on a blow through set up on my L3.0 flat top engine. I’ll be running a P90 head all stock with light blending and port clean up. Stock turbo exhaust manifold, t3/to4e .50 trim Garrett turbo. Haven’t picked the FMIC yet or piping. I know I need the oil pan and oil lines. my question is this, I’ll be using Atomic EFI (2) and a Clifford manifold. I’d like to use MSD 6al along with it. The TBI atomic has a timing control feature id like to use. I was wondering if I could use my NA dizzy and just lock the timing. Also if I can do this, how do I set it up to control timing? I’ve searched all over and can’t find to much on it and I’m in WV. There aren’t any Z guys around me. (From Florida originally) the reason I really want to control the timing is because I have a flat top engine. I don’t want to blow the dang thing up if I decide to run 15+ psi. any help on running this kind of set up would be awesome. Parts list etc? 😁🇺🇸 Thanks guys!
  4. i have a n42 block and a p79 head, i plan on using a 280zx turbo manifold and a protunerz 90mm intake manifold. however as for the actual building the motor i’m kinda clueless and wanna know some info on how to properly build it and what parts i should use for it. My goal is 300 ish whp and around the same torque, i want it to be a daily street car that i can still have fun with. I live in cali so i gotta go through smog and i want to know what i need to do for it to pass. Any info helps and any recommendations work. Thank you
  5. Trying to convert my n/a l28 to a custom turbo set up and hit a snag so early it’s almost killed the project, I can’t seem to find a turbo manifold stock or aftermarket, other then cxracing but that’s a pricey piece of metal lol. If it comes to it I’ll bite the bullet but does anyone know of some who has one for sale or where I might find one othe then eBay? Even a junk yard would be fine I’ll just get it shipped I don’t care
  6. This is my first post, I’ve came here for advice. im in the process of building my first major engine, a 3.0 l28 turbo stroker. first of all for ecu I am planning on running the electromotive tec3. ill be running a n47 block bored 3mm over 240z rods, and a ld28 crank, p90 head and 240sx pistons. im planning on running twin rear mounted garret g25’s with a custom ITB plenum setup, 2 injectors per cylinder, and custom rear mounted intercooler with air intakes in the quarter windows for the intercooler. now I’m not quite sure if all of this is gona work out but, I just wanted to post and see if anyone had any suggestions on anything I have wrong. .ty
  7. I finished my l28et swap and she runs beautifully! The only thing I don't have is the tachometer wired up. Anyone know where the tachometer wire is located? Preferably someone that has done it already. Here's some picture if it helps at all.
  8. After much thought on whether or not I wanted to create a full thread of my first 240z build I have decided that it would be worth it in the long run and nice to look back to. I will have about a year to catch up with then I will continue to update as the build goes on. Backstory: I bought this Miata when I was a senior in high school. I wanted to see if I was truly passionate about cars and if I enjoyed working on them/driving them. This car was a blessing and a curse, I quickly found out that I loved cars and all of my money would be taken by them. Fast forward and I had supercharged it with all the basic Miata mods. The car was extremely fun, but it was not a car that I saw myself keeping for the long run and I had this long list of parts/mods I wanted to do to it. I had always wanted a few cars but they were just out of my price range; 240z, s2000 and a few old muscle cars. I thought about it and decided that if I was going to pour tons of money and time into a car I wanted it to be a car I wanted to keep and loved the looks of, not just enjoyed the drive. Once I had made this decision I was a sophomore in college and began the long search for a Z. I spent about 9 months of searching everyday for a s30, primarily looking at 240zs.
  9. I know there are lots of these threads, but most are pretty old. Maybe someone might be interested. I have a 78 280Z, I found a 82 ZXT on craigslist and bought it. My goal here is to make a drivable stock looking 280Z with some a$$ I have no illusions of out running a modern Camaro or Mustang, but I'd like to make them earn it. so here we go As bought almost two years ago.
  10. I put this in the "turbo" section cus I didn't see any other appropriate place, but it probably applies to the turbo somehow. I have a 1978 280z with an '82 L28ET engine. It is stock everything except for an added oil cooler. I currently have a SUPER DIRTY K&N air filter that sits in front of my radiator via some custom piping. I think the previous owner put this on in 2004 and hasn't changed it since, so I decided I would just get a new one rather than try to clean it (see below). I found the current filter online: https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RE-0910 However, I found a very similar but slightly larger filter below it: https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RE-0810 The second filter is about an inch longer and an inch wider at the base. However, it will definitely fit in the current space, so it would be very easy to swap to this size. Is it worth it to buy the slightly bigger size? Are there performance benefits/downsides, or will I not even notice this small of a difference?
  11. Selling a few parts I have all located in San Diego. Just took apart a running 450hp L28et so I upgrading a few parts now. 1) $150 Fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator combo deal. Will work for barbed or o-ring style injectors. Will come with adapters for o-ring 2) $200 shaven and clean webbed intake manifold. Cut off the web part and semi polished. Egr all closed up for a clean look 3) $250 Turbo exhaust manifold with welded in external wastegate flange. Had a Tial 38mm wastegate. 4) $150 Tial 38mm wastegate silver. 5) $275 Deka 550cc low imp injectors
  12. I have a couple questions about my electronic boost controller that I am using with MegaSquirt. The EBC has 3 ports. I assume 2 are input/output for the vacuum line and the 3rd is actually the air that vents to atmosphere? Does which port you use matter? See pic #1. Can I install it behind the heat shield here (on the master cylinder side - see pic #2)? If not, where is typical? If I install it here, is the "vent to atmosphere" gas gonna be too hot for the master cylinder or is that amount insignificant? The tube coming out of the turbo/wastegate is much larger than the one going into the EBC - how should I best address this step down and step up in size without a ton of awkward connections? EBC (#1): Install Location (#2): Hose to wastegate is different size than EBC connection (#4):
  13. I am looking for a used aftermarket down pipe for a l28et specifically for an S30 by MSA.
  14. I've been reading up on turbos for over 6 hours between today and yesterday 🤪 haha and have gone from zero knowledge to some knowledge. I am a big proponent of "buy once, cry once" methodology and while I am updating a bunch of other stuff on the Z, I am wondering if I should just knock out the turbo as well. HP Goal: Reliable 260hp-290hp for application that is 99% street Torque Goal: 300-310ft/lbs Spool RPM: 2400 RPM start with full boost by ~3000 RPM (similar to stock!) Wastegate: Internal (don't want to be swapping anything out or fabbing external brackets) I think 260hp to 290hp is a little high for the stock T3 to feel comfortable. I also don't want to run a ton of PSI if I can help it. So far I am installing: - 1982 L28ET with stock internals - 1978 280z with '78 R200 diff and '78 5-speed transmission - Megasquirt 2 - 240sx 60mm throttle body, 440cc Supra injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump - Greddy Intercooler 2.25" piping with HKS BOV - 2.5" MSA downpipe to 3" mandrel bent exhaust with straight-through muffler - Mishimoto radiator with dual 12" Spal electric fans If I understand what I have been reading correctly, I want something with a lower A/R. Something around .57? I read on here that a user had a .48 that spooled at 1200RPM. That is probably a little extreme 😄. Not sure about trim. I would like it to be between $500-$800 if possible (no China turbos either). So does anyone have any recommendation or experience with a T3/T4 turbo that spools at a similar RPM to stock?
  15. I recently re-routed some coolant lines on my L28ET. On the passenger side of the engine, I removed a 3-way bypass valve and 3-way fitting out of the rear of the engine and replaced it with a 2-way valve at the rear of the engine. I have seen other engines like this and read it would be OK as long as I don't go crazy while the engine is still cold. Problem: After the engine is warm, the Temp gauge sits PEGGED at 250 degrees while driving. I was initially very concerned, but what I noticed is that while idling, it goes back down to it's normal operating range of 180 degrees! As I move, it climbs again (fairly rapidly). My gauge was working fine before I re-routed my coolant hoses. Also, my heater works so I know coolant is flowing through there. Where is this temp gauge? Is it absorbing hot hair from somewhere else? Any ideas why this might be happening? Here is how I re-routed my lines. From this: To this:
  16. Went to the Dyno today expecting to do 5 pulls and get a horsepower number. I am planning a significant amount of upgrades soon so I wanted a baseline. This place lets you run the car yourself on the dyno. I had never done something like this before, so my first run I stopped at 5500 RPM. The second run I went all the way to 6200 RPM. Better numbers, but we thought there was an air leak. Upon closer inspection, we saw coolant going everywhere! Apparently a weird old T-fitting on coolant lines had failed. It killed my dyno session. Luckily, the shop let me replace the T-fitting there myself using their equipment and I was able to head home. But not without this interesting dyno chart! This is a 99% stock L28ET. Swapped by previous owner around 2004. The only thing not stock is that the air intake is moved in front of the radiator and there is an oil cooler. Dyno Chart Peak Power: 148.86 hp at ~5700 RPM - MEGA POWER!!! Peak Torque: 161.37 ft/lbs at ~4400 RPM EDIT: Done with 1978 280z 5-speed transmission and rear diff in 3rd gear. I'm gonna be honest - I thought there was more power under there lol. But I'm not complaining! It certainly feels like it with how light this car is. But what the heck is with everything taking a dump @5k? Action Shots: Coolant Pouring!! The busted T-fitting - wtf is this thing? Fresh T-fitting Installed! My buddy who was nice enough to come by and help!
  17. Hello again. Seems as though i always have trouble with my setup so the current issue is very bad sync loss it makes the car undriveable sometimes when other times it doesnt happen for 5 minutes. Datalog shows sync loss reason 2. Ms2 Stock injectors with resistors Diy trigger wheel Ngk plugs and wires Aside from fixing and upgrading simple things (radiator intercooler headgasket timing chain brake upgrade) my engine bay has stayed the same for about a year So realistically ive touched everything haha. But it hasnt always done this and my wiring mess has always been the same so electrical noode and ground dont seem like the sore thumb but they still could be it.
  18. Looking for a stock T3, 81-83 280zx or 84-86 300zx T3 turbo. Good condition and functional preferred, but interested in turbos needing a rebuild as well. Additionally, I'm interested in a functional well working t3/t4 hybrid for separate Z project. Thanks fellas!
  19. Currently building an L28ET and I an looking to buy: 1. Megasquirt relay and cable (MSRelay-C / MSRelayCable) 2. 54 mm Optical Trigger Wheel for Nissan L28ET 3. 440cc Injectors 4. Fuel Rail, 11mm injector size Thank you!
  20. Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
  21. 74 260z with r200 diff and l28et. I want to do the 240sx transmission conversion. My friend has a donor transmission but its from a dual cam ka24 240sx. Will this work or doe only the single cam 240sx transmission work. Ive read some mixed info. As long as there is no difference aside from the bellhousing then its a go. Thankyou
  22. Does anyone have a set for sale? I can't afford to buy refurbished ones. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and test bench so it's okay if they haven't been cleaned. Thanks!
  23. Hey everyone! So I'm planning on picking up this 280zx Turbo next week. I want to use the engine, wiring harness, etc. for a turbo build for my 260z and I figured it'd be easier to buy the whole car than to piece everything together separately. Would anything else off this car be useful to me? The only thing is it's an automatic but I could find a 5 speed from an N/A? He's asking $1500, I'll post a link below and would love to hear what you think it's worth. Thanks! https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-datsun-nissan-280-zx/6377046535.html -Austin
  24. Can anyone tell me which vac hose to tap for a mechanical boost gauge on an L28ET? I took a pic. Bonus if you can draw an arrow pointing to a specific hose!
  25. Hello, I’m looking for l28et with p90 head. Optionaly with the Borg Warner T5 and r200 diff. I have complete stock 260z and would like to go turbo. Best regards, Mark
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