[1974 260LSZ]

After the wiring I got the dash in and started on the interior stuff. I make carbon fiber panels for the S30 platform. i havent put one in this one yet, but i plan to later. I got a few goodies like a new steering wheel and some mirrors. not oem datsun mirrors. but its just for now. I decided to only put one on the driver side. I got some free toyota starion seats from a friend for it. decided they were better than the 30th anniversary camaro ones in it before.

[1974 260LSZ]

So First thing I set out to do after the motor was dropped in was get it wired and running right. I spent nearly 3 months running through wiring diagrams. figuring out the switch positions, and all accesories. I wanted to make sure I would have to reenter the wiring system for at least another 30 years. haha

[1974 260LSZ]

Hey guys I have a 260Z ive been working on for about a year.  It has been gone through completely. everything is new or refurbished on it. The previous owner did an amazing job with the body work. All I did was finalize the LS swap and pretty much anything else. When I got her she was basically a rolling shell. It originally was going to have a 2JZ swapped in it. But I had bigger plans. My friend fabbed up some custom motor mounts for the LS. It places it 4 inches lower and 2 inches further back than any other kit out there. its practically  a 50/50 balance now. only around 50-60 extra pounds over the original motor. I worked for a few months to get the wiring done on it. everything electrical works. I even did the honda windshield motor upgrade. completely fabbed up my own heater system. The amount of work ive put in this thing is ridiculous. Below is a list of things that went into the build. I didnt get too many pics when the motor was dropped in, but ive got plenty of pics of the rest of the build.

 

SPECS 
Heads :GM 799s Ported & polished
Block: GM LQ4 New GM head gaskets/ blasted chem bathed and rehoned.
Intake: Edelbrock 29087 Victor Jr LS1/ LS Carb spacer
Carb: Holley 750 CFM double pumper
Ignition: MSD 6LS
Fuel intro: ¼ inch aluminum line paired with Carter Competition Series Electric Fuel Pump 100 gph Free Flow , 6-8 psi output/ Standby mr gasket electric inline pump installed $320.00
Valves/ retainers: GM OEM LS6
Cam: GM LS-7
Headers: JTR 1-3/4" primary tubes, 3" collector
Exhaust: 2.5 inch straight through to an 18 inch crossover muffler back to 2.5 to rear.
Trans: 700R4 with transgo shift kit and B&M pro series ratchet shifter
2400 Dacco stall converter
Diff: R200 with OBX lsd and hardened washers installed Stock rebuilt axles

EXTERIOR
Body : Fully shaved bumpers. Sand blasted undercoated. painted
New rubbers on all windows
Dash/ din steering wheel
Z store cover ,full
Doors Panels and hardware mirrors etc.
Wheels: Rota RBR 17x7.5, 17x9, bridgestone blizzak lm22, mickey tompson drag radials
Spoiler: BRE front air dam, custom rear spoiler
Wiring: Keep it clean wiring harness. 21 circuit.
Misc: All other random things. Bolts, wires, connectors, fuel cell, roll cage, switches, radiator, fans, intake, brakes, wheel spacers, misc electronics, etc. new , replaced/ refurbished

[cost for an LSx 240Z swap]

this is where I am so far. its not everything. and I do 90% of work on it myself. So no labor.

 

Heads 

GM 799s

Port & polish

$500.00

 

Block

GM LQ4 New felpro head gaskets

New felpro head gaskets

$2,200.00

 

Intake

Edelbrock 29087 Victor Jr LS1/ LS 

Carb spacer 

$300.00

 

Carb

Holley 750 CFM double pumper

stock

$420.00

 

Ignition

MSD 6LS

Programmed accordingly

$350.00

 

Fuel intro

¼ inch aluminum line paired with Carter Competition Series Electric Fuel Pump 100 gph Free Flow , 6-8 psi output

Standby mr gasket electric inline pump installed

$320.00

 

Valves/ retainers

LS6 equavilent

Stock

$400.00

 

Cam

The real question lays here. UPGRADE stock

Gms Hot Cam install eventually

 

 

 

Headers

JTR 

1-3/4" primary tubes, 3" collector 

$500.00

 

Exhaust

2.5 inch straight through to an 18 inch crossover muffler back to 2.5 to rear.

custom

$500.00

 

Trans

700R4 with transgo shift kit and B&M pro series ratchet shifter

2500 stall converter

$1,200.00

 

Diff

R200 with OBX lsd and hardened washers installed.

Stock rebuilt axels

$700.00

 

EXTERIOR

 

Body 

Fully shaved bumpers. Sand blasted undercoated. painted

New rubbers on all windows

$7,200.00

 

Seats

Nothing special.

$0.00

 

Dash/ din steering wheel

Z store cover ,full

$220.00

 

Doors

Panels and hardware mirrors etc.

$400.00

 

Wheels

Rota RBR 17x7.5, 17x9, bridgestone blizzak lm22, mickey tompson drag radials

$1,800.00

 

Spoilers

BRE front air dam, custom rear spoiler

$320.00

 

Wiring

Keep it clean wiring harness. 21circut

$300.00

 

Misc.

All other randon things. Bolts, wires, connectors, fuel cell, roll cage, switches, tape, shrink wrap, fluids, radiator, fans, intake, loom, steering supplies, brakes, wheel spacers, etc etc.

$3,200.00

 

Total

Rough estimate on most parts. This is not including the labor I put in and the things i had laying around the shop while building the car.

$20,830.00

[battery drain]

ok so a week ago i tried to wire in a radio in my 77 280z. it ended up not working right so i just pulled it back out. a few days later it failed to start. i charged the battery all night then it was working properly for a few more days. then it just wouldnt crank up unless jumped. i replaced the battery and alternator. and checked connections everywhere. it ran fine for a while. then the other day it drained itself dry. i jumped it. it ran fine for a few then slowly lost charge. every since i put on the new alternator it has the charge light on on the dash. its just a stock 280z alternator from advanced auto. i unplugged every thing under the dash that wasnt necissary like the heater blower, radio harness just in case it had a short. i looked at the little relay onder the passenger seat too. it looked fine no shorts. im at my end with this electrical monster and any ideas would help greatly. i looked around on here but nothing specific to my case turned up. thanks

[Need Help With Lights]

ok so i fixed the problem. turns out it was a melted fuse housing. i just re sodered the old fuse holder to a new wire. installed a new fuse and then it all worked properly. but now the damn turn signals wont work. the hazards work fine so i think it might be a switch. lol did i mention how much i hate electrical. especially on old cars. im going to custom fab a newer fuse holder in there so i dont have the blown fuse problem so much.

[my 77 s30 build.]

oh yeah this is what im going for. a little bit of flat paint can go a long way with the right creativity!

[my 77 s30 build.]

a few parts sanded and started the front bumper. i hate sanding.

[my 77 s30 build.]

motor pics, raw after i installed the griffin 3 core radiator and the E-fan and thermostat. took all the ac stuff out as well. (if any one wants it they are free to pick it up.)

[my 77 s30 build.]

after i sanded the side i decided to primer camo it. lol it wont stay long dont worry

[my 77 s30 build.]

some beauty shots after i took apart the upper head and rebuilt it.

[my 77 s30 build.]

and this is how you lower you datsun for 50$. go to your local fasten all and buy 4 two piece shaft clamps ( btw they are rated for 6000 lbs each). place it on the strut tube where you ant to drop it too. I chose to lower it 3 inches in the rear and 4 in the front. cut off the old ring at the bottom. grind the weld away, and walaaa. youve just lowered your z for 50$ and its actually safe.

[my 77 s30 build.]

just a little body work. i hate body work. also installed some zg fender flares.

[my 77 s30 build.]

the rear after i cleaned it out. not a single rust spot anywhere. oh the z was origionally from texas like me! explains the minimal rust anywhere on the car.

[my 77 s30 build.]

the origional owner gave me this turbo setup as well. idk if i want it to go on though. id much rather have a tripple carb setup or just tweak the FI setup to my liking and run megasquirt.

[my 77 s30 build.]

so here was the inside before i cleaned it out. needless to say the previous owner neglected her. there was only a small amount of rust on the passenger side floor board. suprisingly enough. the driver was perfect. i just cut it out and welded in some patches.

[my 77 s30 build.]

ok so ive had my z for a couple months now and i though id post some foward progress. i got it pretty much stock. not a whole lot done besides asthetics. i will slowly be going through it cleaning her up and making it run for autoX races eventually. well without further ado here it is.

[Need Help With Lights]

I know there are plenty of posts about tail lights, and running lights, but trust me none fit my problems. So i have a 77 280z to start with. a few weeks ago my dash lights and brake lights stopped working. idk if the brake lights ever worked though. Just recently the running lights stopped working. I have headlights, blinkers, and hazards. Afte checking with a voltometer i can see the switch works properly, and the fuse is good for the brakes as well. When I push the pedal i get like 13V across the fuse, just nothing at the rear tail lights. i checked the bulb housing. I also took apart the passenger side and examined the wires. There was no sign of a short or ground anywhere there. I bought a new brake light switch just to see, that didnt fix it either. its weird. like i said the headlights work, and blinkers/ hazards too. just no brake lights running lights or dash lights. All fuses appear to be fine. any input would be nice thanks guys.