tolerate
-
Posts
52 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by tolerate
-
Could this be a symptom of flyback failure, even though I have the blue v3.0 PCB? http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm for more information about flyback failure, the symptoms outlined match my car's problems. I didn't build the MS unit so I cannot confirm that. I will at the board for burnt-ness: .When the flyback fails, sometimes Q1 (the TIP32 on the bottom of the PCB) looks pretty rough, all burnt, etc. However sometimes it looks fine If Q1 (on the bottom of the board) does look burnt however, this is a sure sign of a flyback failure.
-
Hi All, I've posted this before, but i've tested this out on the dyno. the tuner had no idea what the problem could be. Problem: No matter how much fuel we put in the VE table, the AFR keeps leaning out around 3500 rpm. Can you MSnS Yodas figure out what's going on? Things we've checked: - Fuel pressure during dyno run: correct - Fuel line/filters cleaned/exchanged - Spark advance timing: checked with light - AFR calibraiton (its a dyno) I've put the dyno run datalogs and the latest tune. the last tune corresponds with the latest datalog. Car Specs- - 440cc/min low z supra injectors - L28ET from 1982 ZXT - MSnS 1 v3.0 (reflashed, problems still persist) - LC-2 wideband -1982 280zxt dizzy - MSD blaster 2 igntion coil w/ inline resistor (getting hot blue spark) Car extras: - manual boost controller - front mounted intercooler - garrett turbo thing, i think 57 trim attachments.zip
-
re calibrated, tested the LED (dead), and have a haywire AFR, oscillating all over the place (e.g 7-24 and back in <1s). My google-Fu is telling me that I've got a bad sensor, i'm going out to get a replacement.
-
the alternator is charging. after 20 or so cranks of hot start, it kills the battery. I dont see the problem but if its a bad as you make it sound, I'll only you use the jumpstart and leave the battery in. I treid recalibrating and noticed hte LC-1 LED is never on, found a place on the ground that was stripped and repaired it, still no working LED, I'm about to take a 9volt battery to make sure the LED isnt dead. Also made sure I had 12 V switched.
-
after the intercooler Moreover I discovered a couple of new problems. After the car warms up ~10 minutes in the spark advance goes haywire in tunerstudio, without any user influence. (e.g. playing with VE numbers) and today again after taking the car battery out, charging it, and plugging everything up, i was working on the hot start values when it struck again. When i say haywire I mean, the spark table values all change, and the spark settings also change. Also after returning the battery to the car, the AFR is reading 7.35 and 22.35. I checked the project settings for wideband, same problem, etc. I tried calibrating it, maybe I did it wrong. Will try again tomorrow. This memorial day weekend is going to suck. Help me make it better.
-
i idled the car for about 30 minutes. and the fuel rail was pretty cool. I dont think its heat soak anymore.
-
thanks tony, I'll try a complete copy of Cygnus tune and update this post soon. And the sensors are in the factory locations, mostly. The O2 sensor is about 6" downstream of the turbo on the downpipe.
-
Hi all, I'm working on my tune and would appreciate some pointers. Could you guys take a look and tell me whats going on? My acceleration is fine, but after I start to cruise, it leans out and starts struggling. Tolerate_tune.zip
-
factory cuts? The heat shielding should be visible in the pics. ones between the intake and exhaust manifolds, and the others surrounding brake master cylinder. I dont have the 280zxt factory fuel rail blower thing. And I didnt wrap. I heard that accelerates teh rusting like crazy. would it be better to wrap the fuel rail?
-
I checked the rail pressure, no bleed. My thermostat broke, so the fan relay is currently always grounded. the fan kicks in from on to off. I was running a half tank of 93 octane. Is there a way to check to make 100% sure its vapor lock? I checked the megalog and it looks like it stalled out around 165 degrees.
-
Hi all, I have a 1977 280z with a 1982 rebuilt L28ET swap. I'm working on my tune, but I think I have vapor lock. symptoms I'm experiencing are: stalling at higher temperatures (> 180), even while idle cannot hot start even with prime pulse cycling cannot hot start even with a flood clear crank even when hot start works (after cool down) engine slowly stumbles and comes to life gradually and stalls out soon (3-5 minutes) I have tried clearing the line before cranking. Would love to find some tips to manage the heat or provide a couple of places I need to start with. I checked my fuel lines for leaks, and checked hte o ring pressure gauge (negligible drop in pressure after ~1 hour). However, when I came back to check the fuel pressure after an hour I noticed the fuel rail is still warm. Is that normal? http://imgur.com/a/ayrDw <------- engine bay pics. Car specs: L28ET with stock turbo MegaSquirt n Spark Extra EFI (fully programmable) Turbonetics (I think) T3/T04B turbocharger (internal wastegate) 260z intake manifold (no EGR) Intercooler with 2.5" aluminum piping Griffin aluminum radiator 16" electric fan Aeromotive Fuel Filter Russel fuel filter at pump 255LPH Walbro Fuel Pump MSD Blaster Coil 440cc Supra injectors (flow tested) JSK O-ring Fuel Rail Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
-
thanks guys I'll try driving fast first :]
-
1977 280z. I will visually inspect the speedo cable this weekend if I have time. I've got dry rot on the tires and need to get those replaced asap. just to reiterate my problem, my speedo needle isn't moving, but my trip odometer is turning.
-
Hey Guys, I've been researching as to why my speedo needle isn't moving. I figured that it could be a cable problem, but shouldn't the odometer not work either? i'm talking the trip odometer.
-
Help me Hybridz, you're my only hope. I've just tuned the idle. but I'm having problems with acceleration/deceleration enrichment. What are you guys using? MAP/TPS or none? Car stats: 255 LPH walbro pump 440 cc/min supra injectors (low z) MS1nS extra V3.0 board MSD blaster coil L28ET stock turbo intercooler w/ 2.5" piping JSK O-ring fuel rail Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator blitz blowoff valve 60mm throttle body I've fixed the vacuum leak. I had a bad booster.
-
Just wanted to update you guys. I recharged the battery and swapped the fuel and main relays out and boom, it fired up. Thanks Matt for the advice changing my ego set, its running a little lean, but I think it'll sort out with new gas and letting it run. Will go for a test drive after I replace a leaky brake booster.
-
would this explain why i'm running super rich?
-
Thanks Matt for taking the time to help me, I really appreciate it. Sorry for being noobish, I don't understand how to upload my msq on this forum, so I made it available on mediafire (its in a zip file). https://www.mediafire.com/?m8fmja2gfvbviq6 Car stats: Rebuilt 28LET (reworked head, original pistons, new rings, bearings, honed and dipped block, new gaskets, water pump, oil pump) MegaSquirt n Spark Extra EFI Turbonetics (I think) T3/T04B turbocharger Intercooler with 2.5" aluminum piping Griffin aluminum radiator 16" electric fan SS Braided fuel lines and fittings throughout Aeromotive Fuel Filter Russel fuel filter at pump 255LPH Walbro Fuel Pump MSD Blaster Coil 90 amp Maxima alternator 260z intake manifold (no EGR) Cold air intake 440cc Supra injectors (flow tested, Dec/13 by witchhunter) JSK O-ring Fuel Rail Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator Innovative Wideband O2 sensor Autometer boost gage SS Braided brake lines 60mm Throttle body Blitz Blowoff valve
-
So.. why can't i change my afr target values to a value greater than 5?
-
Yes, I'm working on the original. I just soldered the stim together and plugged it in for power. All the LEDs were lit up/pulsing. I will check for fuel and spark tonight. I originally tried to hook it up b/c I was running too rich, engine kept shutting off. Now i wonder if its a sensor problem.
-
I bought a stim from DIY solder it together and my MS 1 3.0 works fiine. Going to the land of darkness of confusing wiring, armed with only my trusty multimeter and any advice you guys can give me.
-
The 15 pin connector was on the computer. I feel like an idiot. I'm going to get the board tested and hopefully repaired at a local computer place. Thanks for your help! If it doesnt work out, I'll hit you guys up for a MS 2 extra. Do you have an assembled unit for a L28ET? ** update: I talked to my IT guy, and he said that the ozone smell means its fried.
-
Help me HybridZ, you're my only hope. First I have an Megasquirt 1 extra (MSnS 1) v3.0 board. No relay. Before trying to connect MSnS with my laptop it was running rich but working. I tried to connect to the 9 pin using a 15 pin adaptor and connecting it that way. After hooking it up I heard a whistling noise like the injectors emptying and saw the fuel rail pressure drop from 40->0. Afterwards I cannot connect to MSnS. I disconnected the laptop and tried to turnover the engine, no fuel pump noise either. I thought I might've blew a fuse, but they're all fine, and relays are good too. I took out the MSnS and visually checked for burns etc, it looks fine. I've been tracing wiring trying to find an inline fuse I might've missed. Has this happened to anyone else? Any advice on how to proceed? I guess it's time to buy that stim board.
-
I used to is there a fusenox I can check?
-
The cars a 1977 s30 with a 82 zxt engine swap.
