Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'power'.
Found 6 results
-
Been working on power steering. I decided on a 2004 Subaru WRX steering rack. I did some measuring to make sure everything would work. First I needed to figure out how much to cut off the steering rod. In steering, the pivots are the key to getting it to handle correctly. The stock pivots on the 240z steering rack is 616mm. The WRX rack is about 634mm. Some individuals use older Celica inner tie rods with the stock Subi outers to get everything to fit, but my rack is the "late" Subi rack. The threads are larger, M16 x 1.5, on the "late" Subi rack and the Celica rods didn't fit. I did some online research and found that 2000 Hyundai Sonata rods had the correct length and thread. The added bonus is that the inside of the Hyundai rods are vented and stepped to allow for more steering angle without shortening the outer tube of the steering rack. The step did have a lip that had to be ground down though. The step on the Hyundai rod is 5mm which adds 10mm on the travel on the steering. So, while I cut 18mm of the rod, it reduced the travel by 8mm. Stock 240z travel is 120mm, Subi is 132mm. Now the travel is around 124mm because the measurements are not perfect. So I added a little travel, hopefully it doesn't bind the steering knuckles. Here is a picture comparing the shortened Subi rod vs. the 240z rack. The final measurement was 576mm for the steering rod. Then I mounted the subframe on the engine to check clearances . In this swap, the engine mount perch has to be clearanced to make room for the angle of the Subi steering shaft. Also, the subframe has to be clearanced for the rotary valve and lines. Also checked the clearances with the A/C compressor mounted and to plan the pressure line. I cut the end of the steering shaft off to weld the Subi U-joint to the 240z steering shaft. I just shaved the weld and pulled the shaft out the Subi joint and the 240z shaft diameter was exactly the correct diameter to push inside and weld. I think it looks better that the stock Nissan weld, and that lasted 45 years. Hope I didn't cook the grease out of the joint when I welded it. There wasn't much smoke, so I think I am good. The stock Subaru rod ends ended up only having about 12mm of thread engagement when the alignment was roughed in and I wanted more. I did some research and figured out that 2003-2009 Mazda 6 tie rod ends are 7mm longer than the WRX ends. They are curve and have a left and right though. The taper on the stud seemed to match the original Datsun rods as well. Now I have plenty of thread engagement. I used compression fittings to move the hydraulic lines to where they would fit around the subframe. They worked out well and only one needed to be tightened up. They are 1/4 inch fittings. This is how much I had to cut out of the subframe. Metal was added to strengthen the subframe. If the engine mount becomes a problem, then I will gusset it. I used the RB25 (R33 non HICAS) pump, which is the same as most 240sx pumps. I built the pressure line out of -6AN Fragola PTFE hose with a M16 x 1.5 banjo metric adapter and the M14 x 1.5 power steering fitting for the rack. I did kinda skimp on the reservoir though and will switch it with an OEM style later. I used a 120 degree end on the rack side so it will clear the A/C pump later. Should have used a 150 degree though. The feel is great and feels about as a power steering car should. I dont have too many bumpy roads around here, so I cant fully test for bump steer. Havent felt any yet and we do have some railroad crossings that I have tried. There arent too many curvy roads either, but parking lots seem to be way more tolerable. The steering ratio seemed to stay about 2.7 and without a degree wheel to measure it, will stay "about". If there are any questions, let me know and I will ad them in the first post to help keep everything together.
-
Hello all, I've had a 77 280z for a few months now. It's got a 75 L28e motor with the non exhaust lined head. Since then, I've converted it from automatic to 5 speed, 3.9 R200, decent paint job, etc. My friend and I were getting the car ready for a long trip (1500 miles) doing routine maintenance when we heard what sounded like rod knock. Well, a 2 hour basic maintenance trip turned into a 10:30AM to 5:30AM bottom end rebuild. This was 3 days before my 1500 mile trip. Regardless, the car made it with no issues!! Essentially, everything has been touched in this car except for the wiring. It runs great and is my daily driver. Now I'm looking for some more power. I've already done the basic stuff (auto to 5 speed, 3.9). I do like the L28 motor, but I have no issues swapping in something better. I am not looking for a crazy drag strip beast, just maybe upwards of 200whp with decent gas mileage (20+ would be great!). I know generally power and gas mileage don't go together, but I know some of the Chevy V8's can get you 28+ on the freeway. For a budget of $1000, what is the best way to go? From everything I've read, it seems an L28ET may be the best option. If I don't do a swap, will any upgrades to the L28 give significant gains within this budget? There are still intake, headers, megasquirt, cam, headwork, etc. My goals are a 'quick' daily driver, so I would prefer to keep the power band lower rather than higher. Torque improvements would also be nice. I'll be happy to give more information if necessary!
-
Bought a 71 240. It's gone from the shins down. Rust bucket to the max. If I live long enough, i'll be riding in her. I had a 71 back in 74. I have done collision work for 35 years or so and I have a decent interim knowledge of component relations. This is the link to the video of the first start. https://youtu.be/Oqve26DR7i0 Here is the data. Tail lights work. Left front park light works. Left front marker works. Both rear markers work. No headlights. Wipers work. Glove box light works. Courtesy light on dash works. I have not checked bulbs. Power to six out of 8 fuse supplies. No power to headlight fuses. Right turn indicator burns dim when lights are on. (ground problem?) Indicator goes out when the park tail fuse is pulled out. This car is not a junk yard dog. It is the pile that the dog left by the fence. But, it is a poor man's dream and I love to see the contrast when the project gets to the finish line. Yeah! Thanks, Fletch
-
I got a new fuel pump and I hooked it up and it doesn't work so I tried to just run a wire from the fuel pump to the battery so I hooked up to the fuel pump and the the positive on the battery and it works but only that way. any suggestions
-
Help me HybridZ, you're my only hope. First I have an Megasquirt 1 extra (MSnS 1) v3.0 board. No relay. Before trying to connect MSnS with my laptop it was running rich but working. I tried to connect to the 9 pin using a 15 pin adaptor and connecting it that way. After hooking it up I heard a whistling noise like the injectors emptying and saw the fuel rail pressure drop from 40->0. Afterwards I cannot connect to MSnS. I disconnected the laptop and tried to turnover the engine, no fuel pump noise either. I thought I might've blew a fuse, but they're all fine, and relays are good too. I took out the MSnS and visually checked for burns etc, it looks fine. I've been tracing wiring trying to find an inline fuse I might've missed. Has this happened to anyone else? Any advice on how to proceed? I guess it's time to buy that stim board.
-
Hey Guys, well, i've reached a point in my project where i just had no clue what to do to get it running right other than to take it to a shop. Long story short.... The car has idling problems/ boost leak problems?e Car turns on and runs and can be driven. But the car definitely has a major lack of power as boost gets nowhere near stock psi. i checked for major leaks with a home made boost leak compressor based gadget to test leaks on piping from turbo running through inter-cooler all the way to intake plenum. gauge on tester goes down very very slowly but Not sure whether or not that should cause such significant lack of power. Car when driven barely gets to spool much boost, let alone set off the greddy type S BOV. there is fuel, there is spark. Timing i can't even get done accurately since the car idles and runs, spits, like crazy . seems like it the problem is aiming toward a boost leak problem; however, this project having been done from ground up by me and being my first swap, the margin of error remains.... electrical wiring schematics were gathered from intel from this site based on previous wiring diagrams from L28et to 240z swaps. I took it to a Datsun specialist shop here in (SAN DIEGO, CA 91911 )nearby that has remarkable yelp feedback and honest to god the owner of the shop seemed like a knowledgeable great guy and interested to fix on it.... but after 3 months of waiting i was dissapointed to hear he was unable to get positive results as (and i quote) " specialize in N/A for the most part" which would've been nice to know prior to wasting my 3 months ANYWAY! Does anybody know of a good shop here in SAN DIEGO, CA area that does honest and good work on 240z's in a timely manner for a decent price? or anybody who could take a look at it and figure out what needs to be addressed. the wrenching i can do. but with the TIME i have free it's just not feasible for me to LOOK or TROUBLESHOOT. i need someone to say " THIS, THIS, and THAT. i can get it fixed for _____and running right, otherwise its ____ for the diagnosis and have a nice day. HELP! Here's a link to a youtube Video of the car when i took it for a short ride to the end of the block, as you will notice, the car had issues staying on when cold. hopefully by hearing it maybe some of you could throw some educated guess/recommendation http://www.youtube.com/edit?ns=1&video_id=y79Rjd1uI60 Some pics.
