Rat Fink

Hey Grumpy, I've seen a lot of tech info on exhaust sizing, but it really comes down to noise vs power. I just don't know how noisy is noisy. Specifically, I have a mild 350 sbc with 2 1/4" dual exhaust. There's an H pipe, a pair of glasspacks, and two mufflers. In goes the 427 sbc, over 500HP. I think I want 3", but don't know how noisy it's gonna be, like "neighbors calling the cops" noisy? or "cops pull me over for noise ticket" noisy? I don't know if there's any actual dB information out there, but if there is, you'd know about it. Exhaust shop says go 2 1/2, they said 3" would actually sound terrible, but...I kind of doubt that. Any other thoughts? And how do I compare glasspacks? There doesn't seem to be any data, just general claims. Your experience? Thanks

Hey Bo, yeah I paid a guy to do mine, which was painful because I have a TIG and I'm not a bad welder. The deciding factor for me was the lift he had, which keeps everything relatively squared up during the process and allows good access to all areas. My jackstands weren't going to cut it for me, especially with the height I think I'd need to do it right. I know other guys have done it, but I just wasn't up for the contortionist thing. Regarding Polly, you know forgiveness is usually easier than permission, right? But probably a bad idea given the new house; congrats on that!

Got my Bad Dog frame supports welded up today! Didn't think I'd actually feel a difference driving normally, but it was really obvious! John (Bad Dog) was cool, we called him up and he talked us through our questions. 427 might be done by NYE, might not, we'll see.

So the shop building my sbc 434 says I can use a quickfuel 830 carb or go holley 750. 750 sounds small to me, what do you think? Its a Dart SHP, AFR 195, 10.1:1, hydraulic roller, 550HP 550TQ. thanks!

Avernier, how's the battle going? Several guys had some for sale if you want the contacts. Just got mine in the mail today, look fine, I'll take them a part and lube them though.

Hey thanks for the opinions man, I did decide to do that, but mainly for aesthetics, not aerodynamics, Everything should fit just like it does now. I actually committed, my 434 is partly paid for and being built right now, I'll keep y'all posted. I ended up back at M and R for several reasons, with Dart SHP, AFR heads, hydraulic roller, Holley 850. I don't think I'll go with an underhood duct, mainly for aesthetics, this is more of a hot rod than a race car, although I do push it kind of hard. The only thing I might do, might, and I'm leaving this for last: Fab a "drop" Hilborn scoop and keep it under the hood. It'd only be seen when I popped that clean stock hood.

Or, to put it another way: your car is fast enough when you're afraid of it!

Hahaha!! I think we have a winner!

Existing motor and trans in classifieds

Thanks Doc, but I settled on getting the engine set up with carb. It's from Ohio Crank, (no tax, they finally quoted today) Motown Street block (vs Dart SHP what do you think?) AFR heads Holley 850 427 4.125 x 4.000 gives a little rebuild room vs 434 (what do you think?) 10.1:1 560/580 110 sep SRP2618 pistons hydraulic rollers should dyno mid 500's HP, high 500's TQ Should put deposit down today, working out the details, (with my wife, that is.... and her rolling pin)

Got a set off Scott's 77! Pic looks same as 73 , probably solves it. Along with the Accord conversion of course...

I need one that's not froze up, worth $60 to me

hey next time you're there, see if they move, pull them, mail them, I'll give you $60. I'm not having any luck here, but some for sale posts look promising.

Hey Grumpmaster Vee I got answer on the blower engine, but it doesn't matter anyway. The guy is running 7 lbs boost on top of 9.7:1. Yeah we've had this conversation before. Doesn't matter because my endless indecisive waffling has come to an end, I'm definitely buying an M and R 427 longblock, details above. I'd still like your opinion on it though, there is room to change components for a week or so. I'm upgrading to AFR heads. If I just want a 100 shot on top, should I go forged aluminum pistons; you mention that in another thread. Any other N2O considerations? Should I upgrade to a little M? The builder says it's all good, agrees with the AFR sub. Thanks, Rat

Thanks Bo, I was almost ready to head over to pick a part, (bandages are off today) I really want to mill out the mounts and put in at least a brass bearing, but I don't want to get too sidetracked. Yeah I haven't had wipers for a year, and you'd be surprised at how many times I've had to drive home wet and wiperless in the rainy season. I could put it off longer.

I don't mean to come off as extremely lazy. I had surgery 2 days ago and just am not up to crawling around a boneyard.

Thanks, yeah my linkage is a bit more spartan than the one you describe, no such ball joints,... I was thinking I could replace the metal-metal shaft bearing with something better. Pick a part? yeah, not for years...I was trying to get a place to mail me one. I got more money than time, any young guys want to go get it for me, for compensation? I saw a thread where a guy paid $60 mail order, sounds like a deal to me.

did you get them apart? back together? did they rotate freely? if not them i think the odds are bad to get them going again. i haven't found a junkyard one yet.

Let's see how this looks.

More on the M and R engine: 112 lobe, 236 intake, 242 exhaust lift 520 intake 540 exhaust Yeah I'll sub the AFR eliminators for $400, it's $700 for the AFR competition, probably not needed for this though. They use an 830 carb for their turnkey. They said I could probably use my 750 if I had it worked by a carb shop. Sounds questionable. Comments on that?

OK so I started thinking seriously about handling the excess height, by cowl induction, by hood scoop, by carb scoop, and ended up with my favorite options modeled out of cardboard covered in aluminum foil. Everyone agrees that 'Im needlessly messing up the best part of the Z: the lines. Big vote for NA. If I changed the lines with a 280Zone style hood, OK, it's an improvement, but that won't even handle the existing V8, let alone a blower. By the way, the favorite of mine was making a hood scoop out of a hilborn carb scoop. Picture a smooth hilborn carb scoop sticking out of he hood. Its 5+" tall though, arguably blocks visibility, and is an external piece that isn't legal by virture of being able to come off and cause an accident. Cut the scoop horizontally to remove a few center inches and TIG back together to make it just 2" tall. Remove flare on front edge. TIG a base structure onto it to affix it to the hood from the underside, making it impossible to fly off. Now it's a a hood scoop instead of a carb scoop. Cut the hilborn carb mount out to allow an 8" air filter to enter. Fab or find an 8" air cleaner with necessary drop base to affix to the carb. Go matte and clearcoat on the hilborn finish. Maybe cut the hilborn front end like a V to match the existing V on the stock hood. Sounded cool, looked not too bad, but not as nice as stock I guess. Also looked at all the "normal" hood scoops at Summit. Then again, if I really want, I could do this for the NA. Ohio Crank doesn't appear too interested in quoting the longblock, so M and R it is.

....(cricket, cricket)...

Wow, thanks, that's just the kind of input I'm looking for! BTW, the ebay motor is a legit shop nearby, no shipping. Anybody had good/bad experience with M and R?

Thanks Grump, I forwarded the questions, I'll get back to you. Meanwhile, what do you think of this 427, but as a longblock with AFR heads? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/434-CHEVY-SBC-COMPLETE-TURNKEY-ENGINE-STROKER-400-427_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad491bd2cQQitemZ390113377580QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2451wt_867 I know you vote for NA, and I still may too. I can handle a longblock swap myself. No hoodwork needed for now. I also put this to Ohio Crank to quote. Thanks!

OK, so the CHP seems to think I'm mostly OK. The visibility rule is highly subjective, with no hard limits. The pic I posted earlier is the actual blower motor I'm buying, got a good deal i think. sorta streetable? Grumpy, what do you think? scat race 4340 rotating assembly race ready pro-1 chevy sb aluminum head 215cc intakes straight plugs, 72cc chambers, 7/16 rocker studs harland sharp rller rockers chevy sb 1.60 7/16 swedged end -2 pushrods chevy sb 5/16 billet true roller timing set 8620 billet roller lifter cam rpm 2200-6000 lift .525/.525 advertised duration 287/287 sfi approved harmonic damper race chevy sb 6.61 8.5mm wires pro-billet msd dist demon eliminator 750 with race needle package weiand 144 chromoly dual valve springs arp bolts high flow electric water pump what do you think of this thing? Dyno 580HP claimed