Rat Fink

Not sure if this warrants a new thread but the way I searched didn't give much. Sorry if it's a repeat. My wipers stopped working, and I tried the Honda replacement, but once I got in there I found the linkage to be the problem. The metal-metal "bearing" that the wiper mounts to was so frozen I needed a torch and hammer to get it apart. Even after cleaning and polishing and lubing, it went together so tight it wouldn't rotate. I started sanding until the cad plating was gone and the thing was out of round, obviously a very short term solution. Step 1: Call MSA, they say they have no replacement, and have never seen a frozen one work properly again, go to the junkyard. Step 2: Google search, nobody makes a replacement. Step 3: Call the junkyard recommended in a thread here. Step 4: get a nationwide online junkyard search service to work on it. NOTHING! What am I missing? Thanks

By the way, Pete, I'm also an engineer. BSEE, MSEE, I think you are too? Power Amplifier and Power Supply designer. (Again, that should repel the hotties....)

Hey thanks Pete, quite a compliment! Hard to believe the car is 36. Harder to believe the wife is 45! Oh but wait until you see the next one....motor, that is. I gotta say I'm generally impressed with the women on this thread. It doesn't make much sense to me, really, I mean what is it about a grease-under-his-nails guy obsessed with a 35 year old project car dripping various fluids on the garage floor that makes these total babes want to compete for our attention with these overpowered sardine cans? Maybe it's because with my badass Z, finally, at long last, 30 years later, I'm the coolest kid in high school!

Thanks Mike, After assuming a tranny shop would know what they were doing, and finding out they didn't, I searched and found the info about pressing in the sleeve, printed it out and handed it to them. I never could find out if they did it or not. When I take it apart myself I'll keep it in mind. Although the T5 S/N identifies it as a Ford, maybe they assumed it was GM. I didn't have the info when I brought it in, but assumed they would handle it.

Here's my '73; 350 SBC ZZ4,

OK guys I need to see if anyone else has had this problem and what did you do about it? I have a Borg Warner World Class T-5 from a 1984 Mustang. I wanted the mechanical speedo to read correctly, so I took it to Precision Speedometer in Anaheim. They added a Clark Brothers external gearbox, and changed the T5 internal gear. Now it leaks from the tranny/gearbox interface. I have taken it in for repair eight times, to various shops. The speedo shop, a tranny shop, two independent wrench shops...nobody has fixed this for more than a day or two. Replaced the gear, the bullet, the external Oring, the internal Orings....no good. I doubt I can figure it out any better, I think the only thing that will help is direct, similar experience. Anybody? Thanks

I tell my wife I need to make it "too fast enough". (New stereo definitely got it too loud enough)

Thanks Bo, I guess I better start posting. (Blah blah blah blah Ginger blah blah) Your wifes looking dapper today. yeah Grumpy I know you vote for NA. I'm talking to Ohio Crank about the 427, when it gets closer I'll run details past you. I can't really trust myself with a shortblock, this much HP is unforgiving and my time and wrench skills are limited.

.....heh heh heh....

Hey thanks for the input rsicard! Update: I decided to listen to Grumpy and Cozy and NOT put a blower on the 9.6:1 motor. To get blown I really need to follow the rules, so I decided to listen to Grumpy again, not compromise on a halfway solution, and wait until I could put the hardware in that I really wanted. Since the existing motor would be just fine except for the heads, the crank the rods, the pistons...basically I could only keep the dang block...I decided to get the motor I really want all built up then do a swap, selling off the old complete engine. It's down to two contenders: SBC 427 NA, or SBC 383 +144 (yes a low compression 383) I have both picked out, I'll give details when I decide. I can't build that much horsepower reliably, my wrenching skills are just not up to the task, but I can do a swap. The deciding factor will be what the cops tell me when I ask about the hood scoop height; blower is preferred but I'd hate to get a fix-it ticket that I couldn't fix. It's a daily driver. Through Irvine CA. Past Anaheim cop shop. Hey Cozy, regarding the 144: I'll have the engine with ignition built for it, use a Tremec TKO, probably the weak link will be the R200 LSD or half shafts, but I'm willing to let those go for now. What do you think about cooling? I have an Astrovan radiator now, I'll need electric fans for clearance reasons. Yeah bad dog frame rails, good idea. Hey does anyone know how long they kick you off classifieds for screwing up? I tried to list my existing engine and tranny (want a Tremec TKO) but broke some rules, now I can't post. Also, what's a fair price for my setup? (ZZ4 350 SBC fastburn heads, Holley 750, Borg Warner T-5 World Class) <$2k? I don't really do much used stuff. Thanks!

oh yeah thanks I got there indirectly a few times by googling various terms. I'll try going in through the front door. I'm in SoCal, so there should be some stuff local, but probably not like AZ where you can drive your nitro funny car to the 7-11 to pick up new slicks.

Thanks Jerminator and Hunt, I do want aluminum heads for weight reasons. I did a post in For Sale looking for interesting trades, by the way: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=906638#post906638 Budget is kind of variable, $6k is easy, $10k is starting to get hard to explain to my wife, but ... Forgiveness is a lot easier than permission (Patton?) Yeah I don't really want 1200HP anyway, I still wanted to keep the R200 LSD and ZX half shafts for a while and don't want to do all the frame stiffening required to keep the doors from popping open when I hit the gas. Where do you look for this stuff used? I've been on eBay, Craigslist, and of course HybridZ but I don't know anyplace else.

You don't think that'll work? I thought the heads were the best part of my existing setup. I definitely thought they were good for the 383, about 10% up from the 350. Then I thought it was a short stretch further, about another 10%, to the 427. this is probably a really cool solution, just too much $: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WRL%2D101006&autoview=sku

Thanks Hickl. I was talking to M and R in Glendale CA about an SBC 427 bottom end for about $4k. I could use my heads, get big pump gas HP, and have enough guts let over for laughing gas. (and you can bet I'd be laughing) This is in the "no replacement for displacement" school of thought. A dual-quad-nos-427 is about as cool as a blower, and with props to the Cobra, I'd call it a Zebra. Try this exercise: say "427" three times. You're grinning like a maniac aren't you? Me too. I know with nos I'd be spanking that rear end harder than an escort spanks a senator's, but that could be the next big upgrade project. Yeah I know I'm all over the map and seem to have no idea of exactly what I want or what I'm doing, oh well, whatever it is, whenever it is, it WILL be cool.

Hey man that was fun, we gotta do more BSing, but preferably indoors, and with ethanol injection.

ouch, my brain is full

Thanks, I've been through this manual before, and that's one reason I think I shouldn't just bolt it on to my existing motor. Another reason is the speed shop advice. But I ask you guys because I know people who've done it and say that I'll get away with small boost and small HP increase. On the chart, 4psi gets me to 12:1 effective CR, not too scary. Back of the envelope: 300*(4+14.7/14.7) = 380HP (I know this is very approximate). You can see some others on the thread think static CR isn't as important as I might. key phrase"...if you want your equipment to last" This guy is doing it at 9.6:1 nothing forged,: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/702291974.html I'm not looking for 10lbs of boost, of course you've got a lot more power to contend with. I'm also not looking to revamp everything in the drivetrain, one reason for the modest goal. I think I'll be OK going from 300 to 400 after researching this site about the R200. I don't mean to give the impression I'm taking this lightly or that I'm taking wild guesses. It's a lot of $ either way I go and I've been kicking this around for months already with the resources I have. Thanks for the PM offer

hmmmm dual quads you say? hmmmmm I guess if it's going to be normally aspirated, at least it could be maximally aspirated...

but...but......but that won't stick out of the hood. OK also on the table for evil hoods is 280Zone's masterpiece: http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8324 Jerm you make a good point, but I didn't think I could do it in that order. I thought I could bolt on the blower right away and do the nice low end when I blew mine up. I thought I couldn't get the numbers I wanted NA and then go to a blower later. But I don't know too much, just enough to be dangerous I guess. "I still think you are attaching too much importance to compression ratio. You must realize that the static compression ratio has very little practical influence on your motor." Maybe I don't get it,that's not what I thought. Can you point me to an explanatory link or something? So we know I can do 400/400 RW with NA 383, but I couldn't do those numbers at 8.5:1, JT1 says 10.5:1, you're close at 9.5:1. And you think I'd be able to SC that later? I'm confused.

I hear you Grumpy but years from now, when I'm on my deathbed, putting my whole life in perspective, I could be thinking "yeah, I've had a full life, I had a good wife, kids, career, patents,...and a blown V8 Z". I probably won't be thinking "yeah my one regret is that unnecessary blower" You do have a good point, I am talking about a lot of stuff and the blower complicates things. I got halfway through the budget process, I talked to a speed shop some time ago and had a back of the envelope estimate of just about what you're saying, like $7k NA or $10k with the 144. I'd go into more detail before I really started, but 20 years ago when I started wanting this, I had more time than money, now I have more money than time. The problem I have with the NA383 is that I'm committed to a high CR and could never add the 144. If I start with low CR, then I can add more psi later if I want more power. Maybe the motor will end up in another car that can take more power. Maybe I'll get bored and upgrade the R200 etc later. But yeah the NA 383 would be a whole lot easier, and I could easily nos my existing setup in a weekend or two.

Oh yeah, and pump gas only, it's a daily driver

I have no doubt that Grumpy knows what he's talking about, hope I didn't give another impression. That's why I'm asking, but I think it took me a few posts to convey what I'm thinking about. He knows 100 ways to get the power, but JT1 hit it on the head: "it really comes down to which route you like" You can see there are conflicting opinions on the 144 + my current setup, I heard conflicting opinions before this post (that was the reason for the post) so I'm not surprised. Actually it seems like responses so far are mostly either: "don't do that, it will break" or "sure you could, until it breaks." Which are really not too far apart actually. I'm leaning toward the built 383 with 144. As long as it's from scratch it'd be the recommended 8.5:1. Then I only have the car in pieces long enough for a swap. Lack of time is the reason I could never have done the conversion in the first place. Anyway the idea I have isn't pure rat fink gasser, which would be insanely cool, but I want the car I have paying homage to that era in a subdued way. The only picture I have is in my mind, but let me try a description: There's a hood scoop, but it's low profile, just a few inches tall. It's forward facing, 60's Hilborn style, but not chromed, maybe ceramic coated to almost blend with the paint. There are sidepipes, but a single 3", not 4 into 1, and again ceramic coated, not chromed almost blending with the paint. There is stance, but not as much as Cole, just an inch, maybe two, bigger in the rear. There are flares, but not bolt on, very subtle, I'm looking at the Subtle Z kit like Juday has. There is horsepower, but only enough to use up the drivetrain. There is polished chrome, but it's all under the hood. Anyway this all could take a while, maybe I'll just keep it unmolested for another year, and I could change my mind in any number of ways until then, Phase I is pretty cool anyway.

HA HA! Now that's what I'm talking about! I'd be a bit more subdued than that, Cra...uh, Cozy Cole, but it's great to hear you got away with all that height here! I do drive through Irvine, but still. So you say 8.5:1 too, that's what I hear mostly, but what do you think would happen if I keep boost low minimal and bolt on to my 9.6:1? I'm not asking for much HP. Some say go for it. If I have to do 8.5:1 then I gotta do the whole low end, which of course increases the scope of the project. Then I might as well sell the whole motor turn key and swap in the 383+144. Anybody interested? I guess if I get more serious I'll post in "for sale". Starting to sound like an easier project, but more $$. Hey thanks JT1 and Jerminator.

Grumpy it's not about hood clearance, I want it to stick out, but just a little to keep it legal. If it stayed under the hood I would just go N/A. Aesthetics want to be Ed Roth goes to the Country Club. Cross between what I got and: I don't know if that attachment will work I'm new at this