YoSammyT

I picked up a roller 1977 280Z partially assembled. One of the things I'm missing are the Front Caliper Bolts. Anyone know what size they are? I'd like to go grab some nice ones from the Hardware Store. Tory

Stock rear end will last a good while. You can get a custom drive shaft tfrom any driveline company in your area. Last one cost me about $300.

Just realized I never posted my findings on this. The rear main seal was broken. Had to be faulty as it had a huge crack in it. Pulled the tranny and replaced it... I'm dry. Never had a one-piece RMS leak (much less break), but I guess there's a first time for everything.

The MSA mounts are what I chose this time and I'm using my stock hood on a 1978 280Z. The transmission mount is better on the MSA kit for sure. Unfortunately, you cannot use a mechanical fuel pump. However, if it's a fuel injected z car the wiring is already ran for you. There is a ton of room with this kit... http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/image/29108-20140811-205407/

Radiator and fan.... http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/image/29111-20140811-231601/

As far as cheap and easy goes, can't beat a th350. I've done 2 that way. Are you putting the engine in as is, or send it to the machine shop? If keeping it stock I'd still budget at least a couple grand. The conversion has several big hits to the bank, then will $50 here and there you to death. A couple tips to save some money.... 1. radiator for an 89 Chevy G20 van is less than $100 brand new and fits well and cools perfectly. 2. Electric fan for a 91 Ford Taurus fits well and moves a lot of air and aftermarket is less than $100. I can post pics of the fan and radiator if you like.

A 350 in a ZX is cool. If you're building a 'drag car' you may want to hold out for a 240 260 or 280z because they are a lot lighter and less electronics. Not trying to deter you at all, just something to consider.

It is a brand new build. Definitely not a wearing out challenge. I have talked to Paul. He called me this morning with an idea. Hook a drill up and 'prime' the oil pump and turn it for a few minutes to see if it leaks under a good constant pressure. That will help isolate/exclude where it's coming from.

I just finished a rebuild on a 1990 sbc 350 roller motor mated to a 350 turbo tranny and put it in my 1978 280Z. I probably don't even have 100 miles on it. I have a difficult to find oil leak. No leak at idle, but after driving it it will leave a puddle under it, and it smokes from oil slinging on the header when driving. So, I put the car up on stands and let it sit and run for around 15 minutes. Again, there is no leak at idle when hot or cold. No noticeable leak at 1,500 rpm either. However, if I rev past that it drips very noticeably from the bottom of the rear main seal housing. Some of the drops hit the outside edge of the fly wheel which slings oil on the header and up in the transmission housing. If I rev the car up a few times to 4,000 rpm or so and then quickly get under it, I can actually see it leak several (7 plus) drops of oil, then it stops leaking. I had two breathers with no PCV, but they pretty quickly became saturated with oil, so I utilized a K&N part that vents the valve cover directly to the side of the air cleaner and I'm not using a PCV valve, just a straight vent to the air cleaner on both sides. It's my understanding that a one-piece rear main seal... 1. typically doesn't leak 2. when they do leak, they'll leak at idle as well as any other rpm. Am I wrong? I've never had this happen and I'm at a loss here and could use some advice. I really, really don't want to have to pull the engine back out. Thanks for any advice.

Looks really good to me. Sounds like you know what to look for.

Thanks Rebekahsz! A buddy of mine wasn't using them and I had to have them.

Mine is a 355 sbc roller motor. I went with Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons - I figure I'll want a different power plant by the time the pistons need replacing, plus they're a little bit lighter. I used powdered rods, Erson roller rockers. Holley 3310 carb. Intake, aluminum heads and roller cam are all good and designed to generate power from 1,500ish rpm to 6,000ish rpm. I built it with low-end power in mind, wanted power straight from idle. Cam has specs for good power (and a nice idle too), approx 520-530 lift, but is still extremely responsive. Summit Racing electric fuel pump. ARP bolts & studs throughout. TH350 transmission with a 2500 stall converter.

A good base setting is 1.5 to 2.5. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, turn 1 in until the engine starts to run rough, then turn it out until it starts to run rough then split the difference between the low and high. Then repeat the process with the other screw. Do this with both a couple times. I would also pull the cap of the distributor, go to tdc on cylinder 1 and check the wiring, and make sure the firing order is right.