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aprophet13

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  1. aprophet13
    The exhaust took wayyy longer than expected but it came out sounding great and looks pretty sweet too. Its quiet-ish at idle and up to 3.5k but after that it gets pretty raspy and metallic. Its hard not to shift at 4k now haha Its 2.25" piping, no cat, no resonator, and then vertical glass packs with angle cut tips: Then I test fit the wheels: I could not have asked for better sizing on stock fenders. The wheel pokes an inch but since they're 15s its not too close to the fenders, and the 195s will tuck up nicely under the fenders and I might even get away with just a roll, no pull, and no added camber. This thing drives so great I really don't want to slam it, maybe fenders just below tire height, Idk we'll see how things progress.. Then came the spoiler/airdam. MSA Victory spoiler, and Urethane air dam. I didnt get any good pictures of the airdam since dinner pushed the install till after sun down so I'll get some better pictures with my friends camera of all the new parts. This is just a mock up on the jack and wood blocks: And this was in the parking lot at work: The new parts totally changed the feel of the car and I'm really liking the meaty sidewall look on 15's. I just got my pay check and am debating between coils or all the other susp. stuff like TC rods, LCAs, bushings, etc. Feel free to leave feedback!
  2. aprophet13
    Ya what he was asking was a little over my budget for wheels but he took the tires off to lower the price and gave me a good deal. The exhaust should be done today or Friday. I don't plan on modifying the stock L24 so I just went with 2.25" piping, no cat, no resonator, and a muffler. Should be decently loud but anything is better than the open headers lol. New parts!! Ran out of space in the garage so they're chilling in my room haha MSA Victory spoiler, Urethane airdam, and headlight covers. The fender mirrors are on back order and will take eons to arrive. Got the tires mounted- 195/55r15 on 15x8.5/9" Stretch on the 8.5" Stretch on the 9" And the last shot before they are on the car.. I know, I know just mount the damn wheels already- I agree! I'll check back in Friday with a test fit.
  3. aprophet13
    I've been too busy to deal with the shut-off issue and its getting the exhaust done, but I did come home to these yesterday!! They're rota shakotan in 15x8 et0 all around. I opened up a box to take a look inside: Wait, those aren't rotas..? Oh yeah, these must be the Equip 03's I bought off Zilvia. The guy packaged em in Rota boxes to make them more discreet. 15x8.5 et-6 ~3" lip 15x9 et-3 ~4" lip I'll test fit them once I get the car back from getting the exhaust done. And there are a few boxes heading up the California coast from theZstore so next update the car should look pretty different!
  4. aprophet13
    Hi, I found a used set of 15" work equips that are 15x8.5 -6, 15x9 -3. It seems these are a little on the narrow side for ZG flares given the offsets. 1) do you think these would be sunken in on ZG style flares? 2) If yes, which I'm assuming is true, has anyone rebarreled their work equip 01/03 wheels? I contacted imadeskidmarks, spinfab, memoryfab, and CCW about making custom lips and they all said they can't right now/don't. I contacted Araya wheels and got a rice for 4 new barrels/lips but then never got an answer back regarding when he could do it. Any other options? Thanks, Adrian
  5. aprophet13
    The only thing is that the other motor in the car WOULD turn off with key off which leads me to believe it has to be the alternator wiring or the way I hooked the coil back up to the distributor/chassis. I'll look into it though, unbolting and bolting things back together I can do.. wiring, I cannot. Thanks for the advice!
  6. aprophet13
    She runs!!! Only one problem, the engine wont die with key off.. Here is what I swapped in to my 1973 240z: L24 from 1972 240z with alternator I kept the ignition coil from my car and hooked it up to the distributor on the '72 motor I also used my chassis harness to plug into the alternator on the '72 motor. I doubt its the ignition switch because it worked fine with the old motor (it would shut off) and I've done some searching and apparently an alternator can cause the symptoms i'm seeing but would switching from a '73 to '72 alt cause this? I've read this can happen when switching from an int/ext regulated one but that change didn't happen until '79? any ideas? Thanks, Adrian
  7. aprophet13
    Thanks six_shooter, I was able to just bolt the 5 speed to the 4 speed mount and bolt it up back to the body. Started off sunday morning with 2 motors in the garage and and an engineless car in the driveway. This is with the motor/trans back in the car and my friend trying to hook up the fuel lines. Should have it running tomorrow after work if everything goes according to plan. Have to: Add coolant Bleed clutch Add transmission oil Reconnect some odds and ends (wires, e-fan, etc) My pay check came in today so immediate things on the list are: Megan weld on coils IMSA 3 piece spoiler MSA Aidam I'll get ZG flares once I can afford some nice 3 piece wheels (leaning towards equip 01/03) I'll have an update on the motor with good news tomorrow hopefully! Adrian
  8. aprophet13
    Ok, so I went down to santa clara and pulled my dad's l24/5 speed out of his car. I left the driveshaft. I pulled my l24/4 speed. I also left the stock driveshaft in my car. The L24 with the 5speed should be able to use the stock driveshaft yes? I also noticed on my dad's Z the trans mount has two flat tabs the the bolts go up through, where as mine has two sleeves that the bolts go parallel through. Will the 5 speed from my dads bolt to the other style transmission mount? I'm sure this has been talked about but after about 12 hours of straight work today I'd really appreciate it if someone could just let me know. Any major problems I should expect to run into? Speedo cable, different vacuum line routings, etc? Thanks in advance, Adrian
  9. aprophet13
    thanks for the feedback guys- sorry about the pictures, long story short I'm not familiar with the new phone I have but I will get some clearer/bigger ones up soon. 1) for coils, the GC setup is nice, but does not leave height adjustment independent from preload. The Megan's shock body threads through a sleeve so you can leave the spring where it is (relative to the shock body) and still change the ride height. If anyone has experience with other coils they used please let me know! 2) as for the motor swap that's not gonna happen until earliest next summer and I'm not totally set on a non datsun motor (Stroked L28 or L28et seem like my top choices). I know I'm gonna take a lot of heat for this but ideally I would swap in a 2jzgte or 7mgte just cuz they're toyota and kind of a middle finger to purists- doubt that'll ever happen though lol
  10. aprophet13
    Hey guys here's my Z I picked up saturday! This is in addition to my dads project Z which is getting the full AZC susp. and other crazy stuff- this will be a little more modest as I don't have that kinda money to throw at this car hahaha 1973 240z, odo says 26,XXX so who knows how many miles. PO put what look like Konig rewinds? with new tires, 280z front brakes, and some poly bushings front and rear. lights/air/signals work which is nice. Covered in what appears to be black primer but body is very straight and frame rails, under hatch, and under body are essentially rust free which is why i jumped on this car. Car isn't running that great but I think most of that could be optimized by tuning the carbs. My other car is an '82 242 turbo so I'm not too familiar with carbs, better start learning. plans include: coils (either GC weld in or Megan weld in from mckinney motor sports) and camber plates finish off poly bushings where needed adjustable TC/LCA adjustable RLCA zg flares resized jdm wheels- longchamps, equip 01/03, ssr mk1/2/3, etc imsa 3 piece tail front airdam future motor swap Saving up funds from my summer job so progress should start in the coming week or two. Adrian
  11. aprophet13
    I have actually been researching both stitch and seam welding this week. It appears that most people recommend stitch welding all of the seams like you stated. I guess this is to minimize warpage and time while still maintaining strength. I have also been learning to TIG weld in the workshop at my school (although I've read that MIG is usually better for stitch welding? because of less heat?) and I think it would definitely be a worth while endeavor. thanks for the helpful input, -Adrian
  12. aprophet13
    I appreciate all of the responses guys, its nice to see people offer helpful feedback. I wil definitely talk with my dad and rethink what his priorities are/if he really wants a cage put in. In other news, some parts have started to show up! Billet suspension parts from AZC: Gnose Parts: Cant wait to get back over spring break and start working on this thing -Adrian
  13. aprophet13
    Ultimately my dad is making all of the final decisions on this car and he wanted the cage. I think his reasoning was having bars that come by your side aid in crash protection since there are no side airbags and it is a 40 year old car. I also think he did it slightly for looks and kind of wants a race inspired interior.
  14. aprophet13
    Phar, thank you so much for the detailed and specific response. A few things: We dont plan on using this for racing in leagues like SCAA (more driving occasionally for enjoyment) so the class specific info most likely will not apply to this car, how ever it is a good thing to keep in mind. My volvo 242 already has a a half cage and recaro pole positions with status racing 4 pt. harnesses so I think i know pretty much what to expect in that area (but again thank you for the info) The AZC includes 12.2" rotors I believe with 5 lug 5x114.3 hubs, 6 pot front and 2 pot rear? might be wrong on that. I agree that brakes should come way before horsepower which is why we are doing the cage, re-vamping the suspension/brakes before we even consider touching the motor. The car already has an r200 differential but I think the diff mounts from AZC require a q45 diff which is easy to score from a pick n pull I'm so glad everyone is welcoming and eager to offer advice. Happy to be a part of the Z family! -Adrian
  15. aprophet13
    Ya 300whp is just the mark we're aiming for. I think my dad and I are more set on weight reduction (opting for an SR vs RB) and I would even be happy with less. I'm only 18 but I do know a fair amount about modifying/working on cars, I just don't know the ins and outs of the Z specifically so tips like those are very helpful and much appreciated. I will definitely let my dad know.
  16. aprophet13
    Hey guys I've read so many threads on here an have always wanted a 240z. Recently my dad and I decided to do a joint project on one. It is basically his car, but since I know a lot about these cars and how people modify them I am helping choose which parts to buy, and then I am installing everything I am able to. Here's the car we picked up from a guy in Gilroy. It has a rebuilt L24 with a 280 5 speed. Even with the 2.4L this thing rips! We're keeping it in my mom's driveway since that's where all of my tools are; I have a Volvo 242 project car I am already working on there Changed the oil and flushed the coolant dropped the plastic wing nut from the radiator in there so it was fun fishing it out I left for college and won't be back until spring break. My dad had me take the car to a shop so they could fab up a cage while I'm gone. Future plans for car: Gnose bumper- ordered fender mirrors- ordered headlight lenses- ordered ZG flares- ordered BRE style wing- ordered AZC track pack suspension kit- ordered SR20DET swap- I know some people here would rather an L28ET/SBC but that's the route my dad and I have chosen 6 point cage- currently being fabbed Bucket seats Paint RS Watanabe- still figuring out sizing That's it for now just thought I'd introduce myself and the car
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