h4nsm0l3m4n
-
Posts
271 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by h4nsm0l3m4n
-
-
I've been studying to build a higher compression L28 for my autocross car. Seems like most FP Z cars use E31 heads but those are getting hard to find. I'd like to use a more common N42/N47 or ,ideally, a P90/P79 head. However since the P heads are out of the s130 I dont think you can use them on the s30 cars..
I checked the rulebook and all it says in the rulebook in regard to cylinder heads is:
1. The original or a specified alternate cylinder head shall be used.
Any valve guides and valve seats may be used.
2. Compression ratio may be altered by machining, using any head
gasket(s), or elimination of head gasket(s).
Could I use a P90 or P79 head in a FP autocross car?
-
I'm just finishing college today (my last final is in 5 hours) and I find it fairly surprising that so many people feel like they NEED a car for college. Most colleges recommend you spend the first year in the dorms to make friends and familiarize yourself with campus life. This is what I did (and I highly recommend it for anyone starting school). During that whole year the only time I spent in a car was the 2 or 3 times my parents came to visit me and took me out to eat. The rest of the time I walked or rode my bike. With the cafeteria only 2 minutes away, my classrooms about 5 I never needed a car. In fact, I'm glad I DIDNT have a car since it probably would have gotten me into a lot of trouble...
The following year I moved out into an apartment with some friends. At this point my parents gave me their old car but I still hardly ever drove it. I had a job and lived what was considered "far" from campus. It still only took me about 15 minutes on my bike to get to school and to work, in some cases I'd actually beat my friends who drove since they needed to find parking. Such was the town that I go to college in. I realize a bigger city often requires a car to get around effectively but as a college student I'd spend most of my time working on this or that on campus (my major didnt give me much time for anything else) or at work. All my friends had cars so I knew I could always find someone to bum a ride with if I REALLY need to get somewhere in a hurry. My brother goes to school in Vancouver BC, a much bigger city than little where I go, and he doesnt have a car at all, and doesnt want one. He still lives on campus and takes the bus if he needs to go anywhere in the city. He seems to be getting by alright.
Dont get me wrong, I've loved cars all my life but I realize that you dont need one to get by and that having a car (ANY car) is a privilege not a requirement.
That being said, the Z can be made into a fairly reliable car despite its age. It all depends on how lucky you get with the car. Even with newer cars that are considered "reliable" things can go wrong. My 98 Forester, which ran like a champ since they day my parents bought it chose to have a complete engine fire and burned to the ground just 2 days ago stranding me with only a few hours before one of my finals...
-
I think you can pretty much put it anywhere you want. Installation is pretty simple, you just put it inline with the line that runs to your rear brakes. Some people opt to put it inside the cabin but that would require routing new brake lines from the front to the rear of the car. I put mine inside the engine bay inline right after the brake light warning switch. Only a couple new lines were required to hook everything up.
-
double post... sorry
-
I installed my 15/16" MC a while back an went through the same headache. I couldnt find a consistent number for the length of the pushrod. I think eventually what I ended up doing is looking in the FSM for the 280zx the MC is out of and setting the length of the pushrod as close as I could to those specifications.
Unfortunately, if I remember right, this still wasnt perfect so I had to do some trial and error testing to get the right length. Hopefully that helps a little...
-
There is plenty of information on brakes and suspension if you search.
As far as I know the Arizona Z car wilwood kit you were talking about is the cheapest brake kit that uses aluminum components. Modern motorsports makes billet hubs.
There is a lot of tire fitment information on here if you look around, or take some measurements yourself to make sure things will fit. 15x8s with 0 offset might be too wide. I run 15x7s, 0 offset and theyre fairly close to rubbing on the lower spring perch in the front.
-
Thats an interesting question... I dont think you will "see" anything since your eyes are just seeing light reflecting off objects and into your eye. If you pointed your flashlight at a wall that was moving at very close to the speed of light it would take a long time for the light to travel to the wall and then back to your eye, until that happened you would notice no change. You wouldnt see the light propagating along slightly ahead of you unfortunately.I've got a question but dont know the answer... If you had a space ship that could travel at the speed of light, and you turned it down just a notch then shined a flash light straight ahead, would you have a light saber?Do we have any astronomers here?
Anyone have an idea why this galaxy looks like it has 4 nuclei?
-
I have a pretty easy one...
Anyone know why the sky is blue? without looking it up
-
280z strut tubes are about 1/8" thicker OD than the 240z strut tubes. So fitting coilovers on 280z struts in the manner presented in this thread will not work.Has anybody confirmed or denied how well this will work on the 280z? I believe I Can get 240z perches and they will fit just fine on the 280z without modification, its fitting the 280z ones into a 240z that is a problem. Is this correct? I will be doing this one way or another. When I do it I will be making a good right up, it is a must.If you took the struts off of the 240z they should bolt up to the 280z with out problems, and vice versa.
-
Thanks John. I messed around with the bushings for a while today and decided to order the aluminum/delrin bushings after all. Maybe I'm not doing it right but just setting the camber so it was even on both wheels was an extremely laborious process. Either way, I expect the aluminum bushings wil make things much easier...
-
I recently bought a set of GMachine camber bushings for my car off this forum. The rear ones have gone on without any issues and I'm able to adjust them easily.
The front ones are more of a pain. With a little work I can get them in the mount to bolt the LCA to the car. However, whilst they are pressed into position, due to them being made entirely of (I think) urethane, I cannot seem to get them to rotate and adjust my camber. They are simply too tight in there and I dont want to risk tearing them by applying excessive force to try to get them to rotate.
Currently to set my camber I will have to remove the LCA from its mount, twist the bushing to adjust camber, then press and reposition it back into the mount. This is a pretty tedious process, especially if done more than once. I'm willing to put the time in to get my alignment right but it just seems that I'm doing this improperly... Does anyone have any suggestions to an easier, quicker way to do this?
I did a little looking around and it seems the all urethane camber bushing is an outdated design. MSA currently offers an aluminum/delrin solution, here's a picture from MSA for reference: (mine look just like this, except being 2 pieces made entirely out of urethane)
I'm considering just buying a set of these. It would seem like my issue would be solved using this design, however I did want to check on here to see if anyone has a solution before I just decide to throw more money at the problem...
-
You should be ok. I run 205-50-15s on 15x7 Panasports and the tire isnt stretched at all (picture for reference, sorry not the best quality). I'd be careful though, my wheels are 0 offset (I think) and the tires are fairly close to rubbing on the lower spring perch on the front. With a +15 offset it might necessitate a wheel spacer...
-
#1: Caterham R500 Superlight (yes I'd daily drive it)
#2: ProEV Electric AWD Subaru Imprezza race car
#3: Gumpert Apollo
#4: ZAZ-968 (just for fun)
#5: Lada Niva
#6: Porsche 917
#7: Palatov Motorsports DP1
-
The main difference is Ground Control uses a threaded sleeve that you weld onto your strut tube. To lower your car without loosing all your suspension travel you need to section your strut tubes. With this setup uses essentially an adapter to let you thread in a standalone damper. Essentially this lets you skip the process of sectioning your strut tubes, possibly making the installation easier.Is this set up an improvement over the Ground Control kit? If so in what way?I could be wrong here, there may be additional advantages to this type of coilover, but I do not think the end result is necessarily a huge improvement. What it does allow you to get decent coilovers at a cheaper price than normally available for Z cars.
jmai86, I'm curious what springs you are running. How is the ride? I've read that using really stiff springs (300+ lb/in) on the S30s, like they like to run on more modern cars, can cause problems with chassis flexing.
-
I took a few minutes this week and put together a quick model and drawing of an adapter tube similar to the serial9 one. I threw some basic dimensions down and sent it to a local machine shop to get a rough idea of what it would cost.anyone have an idea as to how hard would it be to have a machine shop make some of those serial9 style adapters in steel? ideas of the cost and turnaround time?The part isnt too complicated so I will be very surprised if I dont hear back with good news. The real trick will be figuring out the thread dimensions on the coilovers. I need these to spec out the threads on the adapter tubes so the coilovers will fit and so far I havent been able to find that kind of information online.
As mentioned thread specs will vary by manufacturer. If anyone has purchased a set of decent coilovers I'd be very curious to get this information.
Here's a quick picture of the tube, not that noone knows what it looks like..
-
I think the caliper piston twists itself out to compensate for thinner and thinner pads. It needs to be retracted by simply rotating it with a pair of pliers until you are able to slip the new pads in place.
Here is a picture for reference (source: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/248077)
-
Grassroots Motorsports http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/
Locost USA http://www.locostusa.com/forums/
DIY electric car http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/
Car Freaks, (local NW forum) http://www.carfreeks.net/
I only really post on here though
-
Thanks for the write up, that looks like it works pretty well for you. Though I definitely agree with John about welding the strut tube to the sleeve.
I'm still wondering if it would be possible to get something like this to work on the thicker 280z strut tubes. Obviously press fitting is out of the question.
-
This is pretty cool, I am very interested to see the pictures of the installation.
I assume this would only be that easy for 240z struts since theyre OD is just a hair over 2". I believe the later 260 and 280z strut tubes were bigger, so the tube would have to be thinned down some before you could press fit anything onto it.
I like this idea - basically using an adapter to set the strut tube to a common threaded size. It would give the user some flexibility in choosing which brand of coilover you want as well.. but the parts linked there a bit expensive. I may have to draw something up and see what a local machine shop will charge for making a similar part. I'm curious what is the common size and pitch for the threaded coilover tubes?i was just about to attempt something like this... i was thinking of welding on the serialnine weld on strut tubes and then just threading on a set of coilovers, but those things are expensive ($260/pair).http://www.serialnine.com/index.php?cPath=104
your way is MUCH cheaper. lol. good thing i don't have to be the guinea pig. lol.
-
For what its worth I'm using 83 280zx calipers, which are very similar to maxima calipers from what I remember reading. The pads I use are Hawk HPS with the same part number as the ones listed for the 240sx, so this may be worth a try for you.
-
I believe drawing for a custom bracket equivalent to the maxima rear bracket can be found here:
http://240z.jeromio.com/images/RearDiscBracketSized.JPG
Hopefully itll have what you need
-
1) Talk to machine shop. Describe the job.
2) Get quote for said job.
3) Pay in advance for said job.
4) Drop off control arms with spindle pins.
5) Wait 3 days.
6) Go pick up parts and try to placate a very bewildered machinist.
It worked for me!
Worked for me too! Although they had it done for me in a couple hours..
-
Tony, if by rotating equipment you mean pumps, compressors, etc, I don't have any direct experience working with these things. We had some basic course work on pumps and compressors but not much beyond that I'm afraid. Most of my jobs were in front of a computer in a cubicle, or helping out with things on the assembly line, so work involving doing a lot overseas travel would definitely be a lot different from what I am used to. However, I have always liked traveling myself and it seems the kind of job that requires a lot of it could potentially be really interesting, and a great learning experience if nothing else.
I'll look into the info about the Hanford plant and Vista engineering. This all seems to lean more towards civil engineering but is definitely worth a closer look nonetheless. Thanks!
Thats actually why I chose not to go for my Masters. I wasn't sure what exactly I wanted to go for and I didnt want to do it "just cuz." I feel you should go to grad school if there's really something that has your interest and that you want to be a real expert in.If you get an offer from anyone, take it (in my opinion). The job market is still *really* bad. The only reason I didn't stay in for my masters was that I wasn't sure what I wanted to go for. -
As the title says, looking to buy a used E12-80 module, off the 79 280zx distributors, in working condition. Let me know if you got one. Thanks!
accelerator linkage
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
I use a cable linkage on a arizona z car 4 bbl setup and I could be wrong but it doesnt seem normal for a steel cable to snap that quickly. I had mine snap once initially at the clevis on the pedal. The clevis wasnt right inline with the hole in the nut bolting the assembly to the firewall and was putting stress on the cable, so I think it eventually got really bent and ended up snapping. Other than that my cable linkage has lasted 2 years and many autocross runs, so its definitely proved a reliable and easy to install solution for me. If you want to make something cooler looking though dont let this stop you