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h4nsm0l3m4n last won the day on March 23 2013

h4nsm0l3m4n had the most liked content!

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About h4nsm0l3m4n

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    Portland/Eugene, OR

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  1. I've been running the exact same unit in my car for about 4 years now... Works great as a defrost heater (but mine never had a smell to it, even when new). I was thinking about modifying to save extra weight by removing the large fan and replacing it with a high power cooling fan like those used in desktop computers. It may not flow as much air but I only need it for defrost anyway...
  2. Are you talking about these? If so, I'm pretty sure thats what came with my rota RBRs. They dont fit over the front hubs.
  3. I've definitely been reading a lot about this issue. I've tried a few of the tricks people have used to solve it (corvette o2s, header wrap around o2 sensor) but havent had any luck. I will run through checking the basics - plugs, wires, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure, etc in the next could days just to make sure my bases are covered but I'm starting to accept that I will probably have to swap back to shorty headers, or get a set of LC-1s and run them as narrowband sims...
  4. Bit of a dissapointing update. We tried the wideband spot which was about 8 in farther back. It definitely cleaned up the narrowband waveform. Hoping for the best we moved the other bank's o2 sensor to similarly farther back position. Unfortunately there was no change. While the o2 sensor waveforms looks much smoother the car still exhibits the same symptoms. Some other observations: This problem is not load dependent - happens uphill, downhill, any gear always the same The problem is not throttle position dependent - it can happen at wot or minimal throttle the same The only
  5. Right now that car has no DTCs. It was giving me the P0133 or P0153 (cant remember which) when I first had the exhaust made, before my tune. I'm not sure if the tuner disabled these codes or the sensors are working better but either way I'm not getting any more trouble codes Moving the sensor back 8" seems really far but I may be able to try it... I have a bung that is about 8-12" further down on one side of the exhaust that the tuner put in for their wideband. I will try putting one o2 sensor in the farther back position and comparing it to the closer positioned sensor on the opposit
  6. ^ This. There is no reason to drive a Z car as a daily driver unless you simply want to. Almost any small to mid-size car will get better gas mileage than your truck. Almost any modern car will be safer and more (or at least equally) reliable than a Z. I wouldnt try to sell myself the idea that the Z makes "sense" to drive. Drive it because you want to, or dont, but I wouldnt try to rationalize it.
  7. I'm not sure how far back is too far back. If my o2 sensors were placed any closer they would be placed in the individual cylinder runners... I imagine thats not really desirable either. The car already is tuned on speed density and unplugging the o2s definitely cures the issue that I'm having. However, I really dont like the solution to just remove the o2s and run open loop all the time. Especially given that that the motor is completely stock... I tried the corvette rear o2s last night. No difference. My last attempt will be to install a wideband instead of one of the o2s and
  8. As part of this whole process my car was actually tuned to run on speed density alone. I believe this should ignore the MAF, so the dirtiness shouldnt be an issue. However, I will give this a try tonight just in case. I've been reading about LS1 o2 sensors and it seems like they arent all created equal. I know we tried putting new o2 sensors in the car before but I believe they were just stock replacement front o2s for the F-body. Some people have said that with long tubes you need to switch to Denso or Bosch corvette rear o2 sensors due to their higher sensitivity and higher wattage
  9. I guess the picture isnt that great... My car has never had the rear o2 sensors, just the front ones.
  10. The o2 sensors are located right in the middle of the collector. This is drivers side, other side is similar Sorry the photo is so wierd, it was dark in there...
  11. I finally got my long tubes installed and had a shop weld up a full stainless exhaust. It all looks and sounds great but the car has seemed to develop a weird problem. Ever since installing the long tubes the car will stutter and lean pop. It only happens below 2000 rpm just at throttle tip in. Basically if youre cruising on the highway 55-70 mph and want to go a little bit faster the car will stumble. I've taken the car to a tuner and they have tried to tune it extensively both on MAF and speed density. We've also tried new o2 sensors. The problem is still there. The only
  12. The 370z had Yokohama Advan Neovas, one of the highest performance tires short of a racing slick. The 240z had Michelin pilot sport, an all season tire. Not really a comparison IMO. Still, cool video. Fun watching the driver drifting the Z around the 180 degree turn.
  13. Street tires are 245/45-17 on 17x9.5s Race tires are 275/35-15 or 23.5x11-15 on 15x10s The clubs here also make you work half the time, thats pretty normal. I work and drive half the morning session, then work and drive half the afternoon session (pay twice too ). Its a lot of standing around watching cones but it gets me more seat time. Normally with just 3-5 runs (only the first 3 of which actually count toward your time according to SCCA) you are still learning the course and squeezing out the best lap you can. I'm not a nationally competitive driver so I have a hard time gettin
  14. Try watching some of the videos in this series. Your results may be different but the basic idea is covered pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRhTUf9iaG4&list=FL1u1fCozi1Pde7abywz4zMA&index=23 Try to get lots of seat time. Most clubs have a "morning" and "afternoon" sessions. I dont run my car in a class or for points so I'm allowed to go drive both sessions to maximize my time in the car. This usually gets me 6-10 runs instead of just 3-5. Initially, when you try different things try to make them VERY different. For example instead of bleeding 2 lbs from yo
  15. I've been taking my car to a good local shop for alignments for several seasons now. They have good reputation with local racers and are cheap. I've always trusted their readings without much hesitation. Maybe this isnt the thread to have this discussion but I've always wondered why people DONT trust the measurements they get out of an alignment shop? I've seen the alignment machines and they dont look so complicated that it'd take a scientist to get good readings. I'm sure, as with anything else, if its possible to get things wrong people WILL get it wrong. It seems like a reputab
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