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wondersparrow

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About wondersparrow

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  • Birthday 12/28/1979

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    Edmonton, AB
  1. I have to say, I am intrigued. I am in the middle of a pre-season rebuilding of my track car. I was actually thinking about the possibility of combination of tube frame and FRP replacement of the whole works. My chassis, she has had a long life, and isn't going to last much longer without a lot of work. I also feel dirty when I consider finding another decent chassis and taking off of the road. Certain parts, like the floor and the firewall must be made of steel or aluminum according to the rules. Same for the the fuel cell box. I would be really curious to hear what a no frills shell would cost and what options can be had (like no floor, firewall, or spare tire well). have you considered the possibility of a removable roof for the purpose of shipping? I am not sure what that might do to the structural integrity, but that isn't too much of a concern for those thinking of putting in a cage. Would make the cage a heck of a lot easier to build as well. I know many years ago when the PO of my current car built the cage, they cut the roof off and welded it back on. Not what I would have done, but yeah...
  2. E88. Massively reworked race head. Ported/polished, welded chambers, big cam, etc.
  3. Sorry to drag this up again. Still hunting for the elusive short valves. After speaking with a few guys, it sort of sounds like I might be able to use the long ones. With the amount of adjustability we have (lash pads and solid 'lifters') does that 1 mm actually matter. Can that 1mm be adjusted within spec. I don't want to wipe out my cam or anything, so obviously care would need to be taken, but 1mm does not seem like a lot considering the adjusters alone can move more than that.
  4. hmmm, 114.3mm + 3mm = 117.3mm. I think those are the long ones Dangit!
  5. Are you looking at these for the L28ET? What head would those be for? They look even shorter, or maybe they are just measured different. F1839P I 44 mm 8 mm 114.3 mm 3 mm 20º Super Flo. Stock size
  6. Yeah, been there. Only ones I can find are from some sketchy looking stuff from datsunpartsllc.
  7. Their site doesn't imply that they carry the short ones If a guy gets the long ones, are they long enough that they can be cut down and re-grooved?
  8. Hmm, their websites are both crap, I will have to give them a call. I have been pouring through catalogs to see if someone even makes a blank or a longer valve that can be re-cut, but I am not coming up with anything. Nothing at Ferrea, or Manley that I can see. Google's results are even limited other than one sketch-ish ebay store. RPM machine seems like they might carry some SI stock, they will get a call too.
  9. I am in the process of rebuilding my head and I am in need of some new intake valves. Si has a part number for them, but they are out of stock and say it will be a few months. They are 44mmx8mmx116mm, the short ones. I was hoping for some nice stainless ones, this is a budget track motor Anyone have any suggestions? I already got the guides and the exhaust valves from SI. Thanks, Sparky
  10. I bought the 66.1mm wheel spacers by accident when I got mine. Bought a couple 2" flapper wheels and stuck em on the drill press and opened up the hole. Worked pretty good, but count on using up a flapper wheel for each spacer. I did 2 and all but completely used up 2 flappers.
  11. If the machine shop is ever going to be done with my motor

  12. I was just curious what peoples opinions are out there. I guess the question started when I started looking at getting a good harmonic balancer that would easily carry an EDIS trigger wheel. The BHJ/Rebello setup is nice, but they only come with the 60-2 wheel (BHJ will make a 36-2, for a small fee of $290). That got me looking into the cost effectiveness of the electromotive systems. They really aren't that different when you consider the costs of a race motor these days. I am not going to gripe over a couple hundred dollars if it means I can get the most out of my motor. I want to keep my Webers both because I have become really attached to them and the fact that going to EFI would bump my little 240 into GT2. Who out there has experience with both? Is the electromotive setup more reliable in race conditions? Is the spark really that much better? Is the spark in EDIS going to get weak above, say, 7000 rpm? Oh yeah, who knows where you can get Electromotive stuff in Canada? If not Canada, who do you deal with in the states? As always, thanks in advance for your help
  13. Ah, found it Here. I was trying to do that, but I had one of the old lever style buckles, like on a plane. I was meaning to hit up the junkyard and see what else I can find. Good pics, thanks.
  14. FYI, finished it up yesterday. Other post
  15. I did some mods to my 20 year old roll cage yesterday (Happy Canada Day!!!) and thought I would share them. I basically cut off everything back of the main hoop and replaced it. We removed the curved rear stays that went to the plate you can see on the floor, put some 3/16" plate on and around the strut towers, new rear stays, cross brace, and increased the size of the strut tower bar to match the rest of the cage. I am not a fan of the angle the belts need to go to get to the strut tower, I may think of adding a harness bar later (had to cut out the old one that was on the old rear stays). One thing that I am actually struggling with is fastening the window net. The way it was fastened before was a little hokey. It was attached at the top, and at the bottom, old seatbelt was sewn to the net, and clipped to the other half of the seatbelt slung around the cage. There really was nothing wrong with that per se, but I didn't like having to flip the net and this seatbelt clip onto the roof to get out. The roll cage is really close to the bodywork there and every time I come up with a plan, it puts the top of the net right in my eye line and too low for comfort. A different form of clip or buckle might even do wonders. I have old harnesses around, see if those might have something that will work. If anyone is still reading this, it would be nice to see detailed pics of how yours clips in and out. Another pic because I thought the lighting was cool.
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