wondersparrow

I have to say, I am intrigued. I am in the middle of a pre-season rebuilding of my track car. I was actually thinking about the possibility of combination of tube frame and FRP replacement of the whole works. My chassis, she has had a long life, and isn't going to last much longer without a lot of work. I also feel dirty when I consider finding another decent chassis and taking off of the road. Certain parts, like the floor and the firewall must be made of steel or aluminum according to the rules. Same for the the fuel cell box. I would be really curious to hear what a no frills shell would cost and what options can be had (like no floor, firewall, or spare tire well). have you considered the possibility of a removable roof for the purpose of shipping? I am not sure what that might do to the structural integrity, but that isn't too much of a concern for those thinking of putting in a cage. Would make the cage a heck of a lot easier to build as well. I know many years ago when the PO of my current car built the cage, they cut the roof off and welded it back on. Not what I would have done, but yeah...

E88. Massively reworked race head. Ported/polished, welded chambers, big cam, etc.

Sorry to drag this up again. Still hunting for the elusive short valves. After speaking with a few guys, it sort of sounds like I might be able to use the long ones. With the amount of adjustability we have (lash pads and solid 'lifters') does that 1 mm actually matter. Can that 1mm be adjusted within spec. I don't want to wipe out my cam or anything, so obviously care would need to be taken, but 1mm does not seem like a lot considering the adjusters alone can move more than that.

hmmm, 114.3mm + 3mm = 117.3mm. I think those are the long ones Dangit!

Are you looking at these for the L28ET? What head would those be for? They look even shorter, or maybe they are just measured different. F1839P I 44 mm 8 mm 114.3 mm 3 mm 20º Super Flo. Stock size

Yeah, been there. Only ones I can find are from some sketchy looking stuff from datsunpartsllc.

Their site doesn't imply that they carry the short ones If a guy gets the long ones, are they long enough that they can be cut down and re-grooved?

Hmm, their websites are both crap, I will have to give them a call. I have been pouring through catalogs to see if someone even makes a blank or a longer valve that can be re-cut, but I am not coming up with anything. Nothing at Ferrea, or Manley that I can see. Google's results are even limited other than one sketch-ish ebay store. RPM machine seems like they might carry some SI stock, they will get a call too.

I am in the process of rebuilding my head and I am in need of some new intake valves. Si has a part number for them, but they are out of stock and say it will be a few months. They are 44mmx8mmx116mm, the short ones. I was hoping for some nice stainless ones, this is a budget track motor Anyone have any suggestions? I already got the guides and the exhaust valves from SI. Thanks, Sparky

I bought the 66.1mm wheel spacers by accident when I got mine. Bought a couple 2" flapper wheels and stuck em on the drill press and opened up the hole. Worked pretty good, but count on using up a flapper wheel for each spacer. I did 2 and all but completely used up 2 flappers.

I was just curious what peoples opinions are out there. I guess the question started when I started looking at getting a good harmonic balancer that would easily carry an EDIS trigger wheel. The BHJ/Rebello setup is nice, but they only come with the 60-2 wheel (BHJ will make a 36-2, for a small fee of $290). That got me looking into the cost effectiveness of the electromotive systems. They really aren't that different when you consider the costs of a race motor these days. I am not going to gripe over a couple hundred dollars if it means I can get the most out of my motor. I want to keep my Webers both because I have become really attached to them and the fact that going to EFI would bump my little 240 into GT2. Who out there has experience with both? Is the electromotive setup more reliable in race conditions? Is the spark really that much better? Is the spark in EDIS going to get weak above, say, 7000 rpm? Oh yeah, who knows where you can get Electromotive stuff in Canada? If not Canada, who do you deal with in the states? As always, thanks in advance for your help

Ah, found it Here. I was trying to do that, but I had one of the old lever style buckles, like on a plane. I was meaning to hit up the junkyard and see what else I can find. Good pics, thanks.

FYI, finished it up yesterday. Other post

I did some mods to my 20 year old roll cage yesterday (Happy Canada Day!!!) and thought I would share them. I basically cut off everything back of the main hoop and replaced it. We removed the curved rear stays that went to the plate you can see on the floor, put some 3/16" plate on and around the strut towers, new rear stays, cross brace, and increased the size of the strut tower bar to match the rest of the cage. I am not a fan of the angle the belts need to go to get to the strut tower, I may think of adding a harness bar later (had to cut out the old one that was on the old rear stays). One thing that I am actually struggling with is fastening the window net. The way it was fastened before was a little hokey. It was attached at the top, and at the bottom, old seatbelt was sewn to the net, and clipped to the other half of the seatbelt slung around the cage. There really was nothing wrong with that per se, but I didn't like having to flip the net and this seatbelt clip onto the roof to get out. The roll cage is really close to the bodywork there and every time I come up with a plan, it puts the top of the net right in my eye line and too low for comfort. A different form of clip or buckle might even do wonders. I have old harnesses around, see if those might have something that will work. If anyone is still reading this, it would be nice to see detailed pics of how yours clips in and out. Another pic because I thought the lighting was cool.

Ah, found that link, in the faq's where JMortensen said it should be. Funny thing is, it doesn't come up when searching. Search for "roll cage" in the faq's and somehow S30 Roll Cage Examples doesn't come up in the results. I searched for at least 3 hours before posting yesterday. Anyhoo, there is a link.

Yeah, this cage wasn't installed by me. I know for sure that its at least 20 years old. I don't know if the rules were ever different, but when someone has safety concerns about my car, I take them seriously. Dragging the car to the shop this weekend actually. Time to get crazy with the grinder

So, the scrutineers at my local track have asked that I bring the cage on my recently revived race car up to current standards. The complaint they had was that the rear stays on my car go from the top of the main hoop, over the rear shock towers and then bend down to the floor. I thought, not a big deal and probably a good idea. I was just wondering how others have theirs setup. Search as I will, I can't seem to get any good pictures of anything that looks legal. Well, maybe they are. The ones that look to be most common go from the top of the hoop down to the top of the strut towers. I might be wrong, but I thought they had to go to the floor with no less than a 35º angle. Our rules are essentially the same as SCCA. What do you guys suggest and who has pics? Edit: for those curious, here is the actual wording out of our rule book. As usual, it leaves a lot to be interpreted, but they cannot be bent. "Rear stays must attach to the rear hoop no lower than 20.32 cm (8") from the top of the hoop and at an angle no steeper than 35 degrees from vertical. These rear stays must be made from a straight piece of tubing and be attached to a suitably stiff or reinforced area. A diagonal brace must be fitted from near the top of the hoop to a position near the opposite corner of the hoop. This brace must be as straight as possible."

I replaced my brake and clutch pedals with a Tilton set a couple of years ago. The biggest problem I ran into was clearing the steering column. With the brake to the right of it, the pedal hit the gas pedal. On the left, there is no hope of heel toeing. I am really happy with the setup though and it compliments the AZC brake kit amazingly well. I love the feel. I am half tempted to go dual masters on my street car now.

PM Sent

I can speak from experience on that too. One of the tracks near me as a 1/2 mile front straight. My fg hood actually started to crack in the middle on the sides and I needed to reinforce it. Next time out, I noticed the cheapy cotter pin style hood pins at the back of the hood were starting to bend, so I upgraded them. I really need to do some work to stop that much air from getting under the hood and/or getting it out. I was either going to exhaust out the hood or build some ducts and take it out the back of the fenders. I have a relatively low powered car (L24 GT3) so I am more concerned about keeping the front end down than rear end traction. I am pretty set on dealing with that before putting any form of rear wing on. A rear wing will just make the front end even lighter.

I always wondered about tilting the rad and scooping all of the air coming through it out the top through a hole in the hood. Much like the Blue Oval Z. My instinct is that would reduce the front end lift by reducing the ammt of air hitting the firewall. And the air hitting the scoop should create some downforce. OR it might just move that air to hitting the front wind shield and have little to no effect. It would obvuously not work with a mechanical fan, but it is one of the things I was toying with doing on my track car. My 2 cents...

My first shield was like that, but I wasnt a big fan. I found it to be difficult to get on and off quickly. I guess that is only really a concern on a track car. I also didn't like how if there were fuel drips, the fire was right under the carbs. Both setups work. I like that I can take my intake off without taking off the heat shield now.

Heh, the fuel system on my car is a bit of a joke, but it works. On the firewall there is a maifold and from that manifold are three equal length hoses going to each carb. I guess the theory is, if the lengths are equal, they should each see the same fuel pressure and flow. At the other end of the manifold is a gauge (one could easily swap it out for a sending unit to a dash gauge. I like the idea, but its a little messy. I want to change out the hoses for something steel braided before it hits the track this summer. I would also like to eventually make a return system, but that might wait for when/if I switch to EFI. /me opens the extrudabody site again and does some drooling. As for not wrapping headers on a dd. Depending on how and where you drive, it might not be that big a deal. Wet wrap holds water, so if it rains, and things don't get hot enough to evaporate all the water, you get rust issues. If it was a dd, I would spend the few extra bucks and get it ceramic coated. My plan for mine is to actually replace the header with something better and get that ceramic coated. In due time I guess. It turns out that digging an old race car out of the back of a barn and trying to make it go fast again can be hard on the wallet. Who knew? hehe.

I had a similar issue a couple of summers ago, it turned out I was straight up boiling the gas in the carbs. I both wrapped my exhaust and made a heat shield out of a chunk of scrap stainless and some leftover pieces of header blanket. Its just fastened on using a couple of exhaust clamps that fit the header tubes. It made a huge difference. I went from the carbs spontaneously bursting into flames to them being cool to the touch after a track session. It is a track car and I do agree with people that say you shouldn't wrap the exhaust on a dd. Its a little hard to see, but here is a pic... As for temps, it should run the same as anything else. Check that you have enough timing advance. IME triples need a couple degrees extra. Are you using vacuum advance at all?