Ferd/289

Anyone know how to back down the spring lever belt tensioner? to get serpentine fan belt off. Does it merely lever with force, or is there some kind of lockdown that has to be undone before the tensioner loosens? Ferd

None better! enjoy Ferd

ditto..., good premise, good rules, good ease of use, draws good techs and enthusiats. Rock on! Ferd

Jumbo, I appreciate the honesty. NO one knows the answer to this one!

I have been reading about performance enhancements to mustangs and the book raves about the SVO 4 cylinder ( I think supercharged ) as an engine. The author claims over 400 HP. Has anyone made a hybrid out of one? I would think it would be a nice conversion. Ferd

Should there be a gasket that seals the collector ends to the exhaust pipe? I'm talking the rounded end to exhaust connected with 2 bolts. If so can I fab one out of Hi temp RTV? or can I buy one..Napa. Mine are custom headers. Ferd

Unfortunately the tag is missing. Unless its stamped in, I will take another look. Ferd

The bellhousing tag on my T5 is missing. Is there a way to tell if its a WC or what gears it has etc. without tearing down? Ferd

Not sure if my race prepped engine 289/350HP has solids. The rockers do not have what I am familiar with when you do have solid lifters, ie. adjuster stud and nuts on the rocker pedistal. Some Ford freaks tell me most 289 from the 60's ( mine is 1966 block with 88 5.0 heads ) probably have hydraulic lifters. Also, been told I have to set valve lash with shims even if I have hydraulics. Is there a way to tell without disassembly?? Ferd

I fabricated a dashboard of 3003 H14 Aluminum for my 280Z. At first I was thinking of polishing the material, but now I think I will paint it a dark color so It does not reflect sunlight while I drive. Any suggestions or pics of colorized aluminum? and what the process would be? I dont want to powder coat it as I think it would be too tough to do. Ferd

Not really a question, but I thought this would be of interest to us Ford lovers. Here is the Ford Racing engine buildup on various engine options for the Highland Datona Racing Cobra's ( starting at $65k). I never heard of them, but their engine specs are very impressive. Quoted from their email response to me "Hi Steve, We do not use crate motors. Following is a list of components for the drive train; Standard 302/354 or 351w/427 H/O Engine for 427 Semi/Comp & FIA: 1) Re-sleeved Pre-1974 low deck race prepped block. (Original 289 firing order for correct sound) 2) Demon 625-cfm carb w/ regulator plate, regulator, pressure gauge, Aeroquip connectors, braided lines. 3) Holly or Carter fuel pump. (1/2" aluminum fuel line throughout). 4) Edelbrock port matched aluminum heads w/ 65 cc combustion chambers. 5) Edelbrock Port matched intake manifold. 6) Detroit Power race prepped, heat-treated, stress relieved, Nitrided 4340 steel crank. (American Made) 7) Detroit Power 4340 race prepped rods. 8) TRW coated 9:5-1 Forged pistons. 9) Total Seal Zero Gap Moly rings. 10) Clevite-77 Tri-Metal bearings. 11) Comp-Cams, Camshaft/ 4130 chrome-Moly push rods. 12) Harland Sharp, Billet aluminum heat-treated roller rockers. Complete bottom end is all high speed balanced & Blue printed. 13) Cloyes, True roller double timing gear & chain set. 14) Melling, H/V oil pump, w/remote filter. (Total oil capacity approx. 12qts) 15) HDR, custom fabricated road-Race 10qt oil pan, w/ windage tray. 16) Trick-Flo, Super duty water pump. 17) MSD, Billet aluminum distributor. 18) MSD, Blaster Coil. 19) MSD, 8.5mm Silicone wire set. 20) Pro-Engineering silicone Fluid crank damper. 21) Billet aluminum drive-reduction pulley set. 22) Aluminum HDR valve covers. 23) High torque, Starter w/ remote solenoid. 24) Custom fabricated exhaust headers w/ Original style side pipes.(Ceramic coated) The available 302/354 stroker engine is rated for 440hp @ 6800rpm. The available 351/427 stroker engine is rated for 495hp @ 7000rpm. Drive Train Specs: World Class T-5z H/D: Complete with short throw Pro-5 shifter. 1) Double Moly 2nd speed, 3rd speed and counter shaft cluster gears. 2) Carbon fiber 3 & 4 blocker rings. 3) 1-1/16" dia, 10 -tooth input spline. 4) 7-tooth Speedo drive gear. 5) Steel input bearing retainer. 6) Improved synchronizers and bearings. 7) 28-tooth output spline. 8) Cobra H/D style pocket bearing. As these are individually custom-built gearboxes from new units, several 5th gear ratios are available for the customer's individual needs at no extra charge. Trans input parts specs: 1) Mcleod Billet Steel flywheel. 2) Custom built clutch disc, (designed to Cars weight & H/P). 3) Custom Built competition pressure plate, (designed to cars weight & H/P). 4) Mcleod hydraulic throw-out bearing w/ steel braid lines. 5) Ford Cobra R bell housing. 6) Custom made & balanced drive shaft assembly. 7) Steel drive shaft safety hoop. (Hoop is structural member of the frame.) Rear Differentials, Options & Spec's: Speedway Engineering Custom 9" Floater & Quick-Change Rears: Features: Auburn Pro-Series Posi 3rd member or Detroit soft locker, w/ heat-treated billet aluminum hubs and drive plates. CNC machined road-race axles, customer's choice of final drive ratio gear set, all set in on a custom Satchel link system w/ moly-Teflon Heim joints. Options: Compact oil cooler transfer pump w/ aluminum oil tank & lines, along with extra quick-change final drive gear sets, many ratio's available. NOTE: The oil cooler is Mandatory if ANY racing is expected and highly recommended for prolonged high speed driving. Steve, every aspect of our car is tailored to the customer, so if you require a special engine package we would be more than happy to accomodate. The above mentioned components are typical for our standard build. Sincerely, Robert Jordan." Highland Daytona Racing.

The whole idea with dry ice is that you moderately heat the hail ding or not if it is a warm day lets say 85 degrees. Then you merely place the dry ice on the ding and if the ding is not too deep ( plastic deformation for those structural design engineers ) the ding pops out. I have never done this myself but apparently it works at times. Ferd

not yet on the dry ice but I will give it a shot,,I heard it works at times. Ferd

I searched but did not come across the data on which fan and shroud I can use to cool my 289 H/O engine. Right now I have a black magic fan with no shroud and a 3 core radiator, about 8 inches from the engine block. I am thinking its not enough ( it gotsd hot in Texas). I would like to use a Taurus fan thinking its higher flow through. Any advice appreciated? Also, what do yards charge for these fans with shroud? Ferd

I have a bunch of hail dents on my 300ZX . I am thinking that some dents will respond to paintless dent repair process with a glue dent puller which I own. The rest that I cannot get to underneath with bondo or the like. A while back someone told me about a body filler good for about 1/8 inch depth and no more, and I am thinking its a bare metal body 'glaze' which is used on bare metel to fill sanding nicks etc before primer. What I am thinking is to pull the hail dents out with a puller to above skin level, then smooth down to the level of the fenders as best I can. Then use the glaze filler and a flat file to level repair. Am I on the right track? What tools or fillers can you recommend? Ferd

Here is a mail order distributor webpage that I found that might help you would be painters out there. Prices look good, dont know about quality or service from this placel http://home.att.net/~brer/paintad2.htm

The paint is:: Western automotive finishes Cleveland Ohio Industrial Enamal W460 Safety Yellow

Racerx, I dug out the paint can. Here is what it is.. Western automotive finishes Cleveland Ohio Industrial Enamal W460 Safety Yellow

Maybe I was drunk, but I guess a HybridZ web master took a paint question I had and reformated it and placed on the 'body and paint' forum area. If this is true, thanks for the help. I did not know you put that extra effort into this fine web page. My original entry had a website with picture which I thought would be fun to view. Ferd

Racerx, THe paint is one stage urethane. After painted two years ago paint was never hand finished or left outdoors as its been in the garage all this time. I plan to use unless you disagree, I guess the same paint Urethane. Also, its pretty smooth in most area's, but can I hand finish to a smoother finish? Ferd

I have a 280 painted 2 years ago with one part poly ( paint and hardener combo). There are a few spots that need extra paint. Paint has never been sanded or waxed and has been in garage all this time. Can I add paint to finish as is? How do I finish ie wet sand etc. Ferd http://www.streetneeds.com/ttnet/up/Mvc-006s.jpg

Many thanks for the insight CLears up the mystery for me. Ferd

http://www.streetneeds.com/ttnet/up/Mvc-004e.jpg If anyone has used this tool please explain how to use. Actually looks pretty simple but would like some advice

I would like to post a picture of a tool that I own to see if anyone knows what it is used for. How do I post a pic. Ferd

My impared impact wrench sounds like a very slow machine gun... I know poor example. I guess I will get a new wrench from walmart since rebuild seems to be not worthwhile. Ferd