Meatwad

So a little update. Not much has really happened lately. I have all the materials for engine mounts and a trans cross member. Not much will likely get done until around October because of the 115+ degree heat we see in the summer.

Hmm I'm wondering if these silverado shorties would work in replacement of flipped truck exhaust manifolds. A V-band would be welded on instead of those huge flanges that are currently on it.

May as well change them both

Yep, pull your intake off, they're in the valley right under the intake

These dowel pins, which are on the tranny from the factory, line up the transmission and the bellhousing exactly where it needs to be. The Trans has 2, 1 on each side. The engine has larger ones aswell so it lines up everything the way it need to be.

I had literally none of those issues states in that thread except the lack of instructions, but is honestly straight forward and pretty simple to index if you have the dowels that the oem engine and oem tranny came with. It makes the process a billion times easier. I had no issues with bolts, the metal wasn't too soft, everything lined up as it should.

Both the engine had dowels and the tranny had dowels so that it lines up perfectly. I just went to my local dealer and got the dowels for free. My main issue was the clutch slave cylinder trying to get it the right distance away from the clutch assembly

Yep! It's all good to go!

Engine and tranny put together and the fun part is near!

The only thing I'm waiting on to put it all in is a scatter shield(safety first), and to get paint so I can paint the engine bay

If they don't fit, I don't think I'd want a skinnier seat. I'm a pretty skinny guy and these things hug me pretty tight. Any tighter, I wouldn't want them

Weirdest craigslist story I've ever had: so I saw an ad for corbeau a4 seats. The claim was that they're brand new in the box. The lady gives me an address 28 miles away and a suite number. I go there with my buddy because it seemed kind of sketchy. We get there and the place is called brain solutions. Confused, we call the lady up trying to find the damn entrance. We walk in and there is some older lady in her 60's. We go around back and she opens the door. There is a huge corbeau box. I open it and there are two brand new corbeau a4 seats still in the wrapping. I got a killer deal on them so I bought them an stuffed them in the back seat of the goat. We were both confused as to what happened. We googled the place an it's a teaching place to help mentally challenged kids learn. On the site, there's a video explaining what they do. Who's on the video? The lady who sold us the seats!! We were laughing so damn hard due to how weird the situation was! Regardless, I got two a4 seats for $350

Got this beauty most of the way put together, just waiting on a few misc parts and a harmonic balancer installer.

I'd be curious as to if it's fit. The coyote engines are pretty wide in comparison, for example, an LS engine. I'm not sure if it'd fit between the strut towers after headers and everything get installed, but I could be wrong and would like to see this swap happen

It has been a couple of months. I have been distracted by a low mile 2006 GTO that I purchased and have put some money into that. I even took it to the track last week. Anyways, i finally decided to pull my heads off and send them to the machine shop. They called me 3 days later telling me that they were done. As i got to the machine shop, i saw the owner shaking his head. He forgot to tell the employee to bead blast the entire head. Instead, the interior and the area where the exhaust flange bolts to was the only areas cleaned up. The heads were pretty corroded and i wasn't about to paint beautiful aluminum heads. I made them take the heads back apart and clean the whole thing. That was really my only issue. While the heads were gone, i cleaned up the rest of the engine. I used HTH engine degreaser. I buy it by the gallon from my neighbor who works at a customs shop here in town for a good price. After i cleaned it up, i figured I would paint the block Chevy orange because i thought that it will pop against the Deep Impact Blue that i plan on painting the car. I picked up some LS9 Gaskets from the Chevy dealer. I also ordered every other gasket the engine needs and all the ARP bolts i need to button the engine back up, minus the accessories. After months of searching endlessly, I finally picked up a 50,000 mile T56 from a friend who was parting out his LS3 swapped 1996 Impala SS. Picked it up for $1,300 and drove the car before it was pulled and it shifts and drives fine through all of the gears.

As a guy who has dealt with 4l60e's in the past and have a close friend who builds racing GM transmissions, I'm confident when I say to stay away from 4l60e's if you get traction. Even built ones are still incredibly weak no matter who builds it with whatever parts.

Yes, I am going to run it from the valve cover for now. I'll definitely be running a catch can on it

So I have changed direction as far as color combination goes. I decided Chevrolet orange in the engine bay would really pop against deep impact blue. The block, valve covers, and timing cover will be orange. I bead blasted the valve covers and timing cover. Painted them orange and painted the recessed stripes on the valve covers black. Masking them was slightly tedious, but the little details can sometimes make a big difference.

218/218 @.050".578"/578" 114 LSA It's a little small due to my turbine side of the turbo being a little on the small side for the 6.0 By the way, I sent you a pm

Finally! My cam, valvesprings, and lifters came in when I got off of work! Also picked up a 8.8 rear end out of an explorer. Drained the old gear oil out of it. Took 15 minutes of hardcore scrubbing my hands to get that terrible gear oil smell off of my hands afterwards lol.

Anyone?

Hey guys, well my battery is dead and won't hold a charge so this is the reason why I'm asking this. I'm relocating my turn signal lights using led's and I see that there are the 3 wires to go to the turn signal housing. I'm aware the black wire is the ground, but I'm trying to figure out whether the solid green wire is the turn signal light and the green wire with the white stripe is the running lights or the other way around? Does anybody know which wire is which? I looked at a diagram and I think the green w/ white strip is the running lights but I'm not entirely sure. Thanks in advance

Finally got my load resistors Thursday and my waterproof plugs came in this evening. I did as much as I could do since it's dark. I soldered and heat shrinks one side of the plugs to the halos Also made the set up for the dual intensity lights. The running lights wire will be soldered to the side with the resistor and diode, while the turn signal wire will be soldered to the side with just the diode.

While I'm still looking for a t56 (I have one guy looking to 4l80e swap his car and sell me his t56, but I'm not holding my breathe). My custom grind cam with the proper valvespring and hydraulic roller lifters finally shipped today. On the side, i wanted to actually do something to the car instead of working on the engine. I have decided to attempt to delete the turn signals in the grille. I found these 7" housings on eBay with Amber halos. They use h4 bulbs. The halo will only light up when the turn signal blinks, but when the headlights are on, they will act as running on a dimmer setting. I have picked up some diodes and resistors to make the led halos dual intensity so I can run them as running likes an turn signals.

I wouldn't mind giving it a try if there was one for a 280z