Andrew Bayley
-
Posts
358 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Andrew Bayley
-
-
Curtis,
I don't remember exactly which starter I'm using, all I remember is that it's the big one! I've had it for about 6 years now and I've never had any problems with heat soak or anything else. $250 sounds about right. I paid a local guy to coat the headers for $100 so total came out to about $350.
-Andy
P.S. Did you ever get that bar installed?
-
...two more pictures (for some reason, I could only post six at a time, not the maximum allowed eight
)[ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: Andrew Bayley ]
-
I am going to make an attempt to post a few pictures of my long tube headers and Performer RPM (straight plug) heads for BLKMGK and all others who have been asking. Please bear with me if this doesn't work.
...I hope this works
Cool, it did! Nothing like bootlegging your very very own pictures off of a "free" photo hosting site
As show in the above pictures, the long tube headers really don't look all that different from the block huggers. The biggest difference is that the outer two tubes now run on the outside of the inner most two headers. I had to move a few wire looms around since the tubes now run a little closer to the fender walls. Also, I couldn't get any good pictures of the starter being surrounded by the header. Maybe this exact reason is why I couldn't get a picture
Anyway, the ground clearance isn't as big of an issuse as most people would think. Yes, the collecter falls noticably low... but it's just behind the front wheels that this happens. If the collecters were another foot or two back, I might be a little concerned. I've never had the collectors scrape on anything before (knock on wood). Now that transmission pan however...
If anyone would like the very large original digital pictures, please e-mail me and I will happily send them your way.
-Andy
[ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: Andrew Bayley ]
-
Jim,
I got the digital camera all ready to go. However, the office is shutting down for the holiday so I won't be able to upload the pictures until Tuesday. I will get some good photo's for you though. Is there anything specific you want a picture of?
Zfan,
I've got the Performer RPM straight heads with the S&S long tube 1 3/4" headers. The headers were ordered directly from Motorsport. They are pretty quiet about giving out manufacturer part numbers but I believe they are the headers for a '23 Ford Coupe with a SBC.
I'm using the JTR setup and don't have any clearance issues. Installation was (still is) a major pain in the butt. The headers will not come out unless the engine is being pulled as well. Even then, I still have to unbolt the headers and move them around while the motor is coming up. Also, forget working on the starter wheil the header is bolted up. The passenger header completely covers any possible access to the starter.
Also, the floor boards on my Z needed to be modified (hammer) to squeeze in an exhaust. It's a tight fit, but they will work.As for the fuel pump, I use an adjustable regulator to "fine tune" my Nitrous shot. Depending on bottle pressure, I some times run as high as 9 - 10 psi. This is just to the N20 plate though, the carb never see's more than 5 psi.
-Andy
-
I hope I'm not jumping in too late,
but I'm currently running (although, not much lately
) the Performer RPM straight plug heads with the full length headers. Plugs are tight, but do able. For you guys with the Carter pumps:
How much quieter was the Carter over the Holley? Also, do they make something that can handle 7 - 8 psi?
The fuse for Holley Blue pump shorted out the other day and I heard my exhaust on the inside of the car for the very first time. One "positive" thing about a loud pump is the "turn signal indicator" option. You know, the pitch of the pump changes with the turn signal at idle.
-
A while back, Motor Trend Television did a "Road Test" on a Lingenfelter C5 Vette.
Twin turbo incooled LS1 that was rated at something over 500hp in double digit boost numbers. They started off doing a top speed run at some tire manufacturers test track. I seem to remember 220 mph being the magic number. Later in the show, they took the same Vette to a drag strip and tried to break into the ten's. Even after spraying VHT traction compound down 2/3 of the track, the FULL BLOWN RACING SLICKS were still busting loose. Best time was something like 11.0's at 130 mph. I know that sounds cool and all, but what good would all that power be if you can't put it to the ground (no one is going to run full slicks on the street in a C5). Seems kind of a waste. I think Johhny should have spent a little more time redesigning the suspension if he was as serious as he sounded about a ten second drag car.
Lone, please don't misinterpret what I just said. If you get 500 - 600 hp out of that LS1, we will be able to find a way to get that power to the ground.
No more Vipers problems... guaranteedWhen do we get started?
-Andy
[ August 24, 2001: Message edited by: Andrew Bayley ]
-
Let's see, I'lve got my "Ubly" slip right here and that 11 second number appears to be to the 1000' mark.
This is whay I've got:
60': 1.913
330': 5.555
1/8: 8.648
1/8: 80.047 mph
1000': 11.268
1/4: 13.615
1/4: 101.122 mph
Very nice Scott! I bought a digital camera this past weekend and have been going nucking futs with pictures of the boat. Later this summer or early this fall I'd like to head up to Ubly and maybe run something (probably the Impala). I'd like to get a few more pictures of yousetup to add to your section of the page. I'm sure a lot of people are wondering just how quick something this simple can be.
Good Job
-Andy
P.S. You Times should be updated by this afternoon. I also got a message from Lone Star 1 about with mid 12 second LS1 260Z. Expect to see his times up there as well.
-
Wow!
sounds like a rather fun ride. Please send my 1/4 mile times as soon as you run!
As for sound laws, I seem to remember all states having different laws that cover each state. For example, Michigan has something like 90 dB from 50 feet behind the car. Georgia might have 100 db, but that might be as close as 10 feet away. You need to get the written law from your local City Hall. This might be a very difficult thing to accomplish. I've found that most city/state public workers are very reluctant to give and type of advice or information to the public. Don't take it personally, this is their policy. They will not give "legal advice" to anyone. What the city workers consider "legal advice" often covers just about everything you need from them short of paying your driving taxes (i.e. speeding tickets
). If there is no way to find a copy of the law, wait until you get a ticket for loud exhaust. The misdemeanor or civil infraction number should be clearly present.To fight this ticket, the local or state police department must prove at the time of hearing that your vehicle exceeds the legal limit. Remember, this is traffic court: guilty until proven innocent. This same mentality is why many of the loud exhaust tickets are waived, they simply cannot be proven in the field. In most states, there is an S.A.E. certified method to measuring exhaust noise. Just like radar cases, there needs to be a certified police officer, with a certified dB meter, within a specified distance, measuring for a specified dB level.
About five years ago I was getting harassed by the local police for loud(er) exhaust on my Z. I got three tickets within a week... and this was a very small town
Anyway, I took all three tickets into the police station and asked someone to come out and verify that the exhaust was above legal limits. The crooked SOB police chief comes out, take one L-O-O-K at my car without even hearing it and says: "You haven't done anything to it, come back when it's fixed!!!"The next weekend I drove downstate (I was up at college at the time) and had a respectable state officer go out and measure my exhaust according to state law. As it turned out, my exhaust read a maximum of 81 dB (I seem to remember, it's been a long time). A far cry from the maximum specified limit of 90 dB. I had the state officer sign all three of my tickets, a copy of the exhaust law, and a copy of the testing procedure.
After returning to the small college town in Northern Michigan, I submitted my documents to the local police department and informed the officer at the desk (chief butt-wipe wasn't available) that any further noise violations would be considered "harassment". They stopped giving me exhaust tickets, but they would always follow me around waiting for me to do something. Not sure what they disliked about me, but it sure made them mad. I think they didn't like the fact that I wasn't driving a pick up truck
Either that or they didn't like some college guy driving around a fancy-schmancy high dollar Jaguar-Ferrari-Daytona-F500 whatever they thought it was. The locals in this town were not the sharpest knives in the drawer.Anyway, I'll stop rambling now. Bottom line, get a copy of the state law and testing procedure and make sure you comply to these before you start taking on city hall.
Good Luck
-Andy
-
Don't know about the dream cruise this year. I'd really like to go, but it's just not the same without my Z. I might shine up the Impala and take her out there, but I'll miss the; overheating, leaking valve covers onto hot exhaust, loud exhaust, bolt rattling idle, and down right strange looks that I got while cruising in the Z. Not to mention that extra "confidence" factor that the Impala is lacking. I told myself I'd get the 700R4 fixed in the Datsun by cruise time, but I've bigger problems with more important vehicles (mainly, the WIFE's car
).I will most likely be down there in the Impala. The Michigan SS club usually gets some premium parking spots and non-club members usually only have to ante up $10 - $20 for a day. I remember hearing the Detroit Area Z car club wanting to get a spot somewhere, but that was a while ago and I haven't heard anything since. Keep in touch, I'd like to meet up with you some time.
-Andy
-
I played around with the twin turbo idea for quite a while. In fact, I went as far as to buy an after market kit with turbo's and manifolds. However, like the Frog said, what the Z's engine compartment has in length... it lacks in width! With every type of manifold I could get my hands on, the turbo's always wound up sitting too high, or wanting to sit right in place of the shock towers.
The only real "practical" solution I could possibly think of is placing the two turbo's in front of the motors. There is plenty of room in the engine compartment for this type of setup. The only major complication would be running the exhaust out of the turbos back over the front crossmember. I was seriously considering running my exhaust through the frame at one point. However, my motivation grew thin as I was turned onto the wonderful, cheap, world of N20.
I would love to see somebody do a twin turbo Hybrid V8 Z, and it sounds like Tim is just the guy to try it! My biggest suggestion is to run the turbo's in front of the motors. Trying to squeeze them between the shock towers and the motor will most likely be a major P.I.T.A. (if at all possible). Also, invest in a nice weld-in cage. I skimped out and got an 8-point BAR setup and my chassis still has plenty of stress signs from it's structural weakness. Finally, I wouldn't worry too much about breaking the R200's. The half shafts and stub axel's will break long before anything in the actual diff goes.
Good luck, and please keep us well informed!
-Andy
-
Allright!
Another Michigander. Hey, check out the post Mike Bradly started about other Michigan V8Z's. Don't want to repeat too much, but there are a few of us around with V8 Z's. Also, there are a couple of Hybrid turbo Z's running around. Check out the other post.
-Andy
-
Mike,
Welcome to the Forum. There are a few of us from the Great Lakes State that frequent this board. I'd have to say we've two very noticeable V8 Z's around these parts.
First is Mr. Goodman's Ferrari GTO replicar. I've yet to personally see his ride (shame on me, and I used to live only 15 miles away), but if the car looks half as good as the pictures show... it can't be anything short of remarkable.
Second is the legendary "Jim Biondo" V8 Z. Jim can be a hard person to catch, and he doesn't visit this board. But none the less, a very nice example of a V8 Z. He's got some bucks wrapped up in that project. The motor alone...
As for local "board" members, let's see. Well, there's me, ScottieMiz, TimZ and I seem to remember one or two guys on the left coast of the state that have chimed in here a few times. Of these members, I think Speedy and I are the only ones with V8 conversions. Both Tim and Scott have turbo motors. In fact, if you ask nice, Tim might even let you come over and eat dinner off his engine (it's THAT clean
) As for my engine... well, you could "look" at it while eating... maybe...Personally, I've been chasing down transmission demons all summer. It's drivable, but I'm real reluctant to go more than a dozen miles or so. I'll lose about a quart of transmission fluid after about 20 miles of very easy driving. I can still show it, if you would like to see it. I live in Dearborn about 1 mile from the Ford World Headquarters (I can see the building from my living room window). If that's a little too far to go, I'll be taking my Z up to my Dad's house just outside of Lapeer in a few weeks to start yanking the transmission. I think Scott said he wanted to come down and check it out as well. During a typical summer, I would have racked up well over 5000 miles on my Z. This summer, I think I've logged maybe 50
The outside still looks somewhat nice though. I've had to yank the motor three times this year, so that could use a little detailing, but it's all still there.Let me know if you want to stop by.
-Andy
P.S. I've got a web site with a bunch of my pictures on it. Also, go to the "Quarter Mile Times" section of the page and look for Scottie(Miz, not GNZ... two different people) link. There are a few pictures of him on there. Links are all below in my sig.
-
I agree with Pete, whatever floats your boat.
However, I would tend to think that the Automatic might be a slightly easier swap to perform. The reasons I say this is because the automatic swap is already well documented in the JTR book and about 99% of the transmission functionality is self contained. All you bascially need to add is a shifter.
A manual, on the other hand, is not as well documented on in the JTR book. Also, the clutch assembly is something you most likely need to ask a few questions about. But the good new is that many people on this board have successfully swapped a five or six speed transmission into their Z.
As for which to use (auto vs. manual), it's all about personal taste. I choose an automatic because I felt it would be very difficult to match the drag race ability of a well built automatic with any manual transmission. This, of course, is just my opinion... and everybody's got one!
Good Luck
Happy motoring
-Andy
-
Hey Mike,
Sorry to hear about your tranny woes. I've been dreaming of manuals lately since I can't get mine to stop leaking... however, it doesn't sound like you're in any better shape than me.
Don't know if this helps or not, but I once busted a 5 speed in a Mitsubishi Eclipse while powershifting into second. I missed the shift and broke the shifting fork inside the trans. The shifter still felt like it worked, but I only had fourth gear. Now this is what was weird... when every I tried to put the trans into any other gear besides fourth, I could feel two separate gears fighting against each other inside the transmission. If I was going to put money on anything, I would have to say that one your shifter forks (don't know how many a T-56 has) is misadjusted, bent, or possibly even broken.
On a positive note, be glad the transmission your pulling isn't in an AWD econo box. Did that once before and it looks like I'll be doing it again soon.
Good Luck
-Andy
-
No Jim, you need two B-I-G tanks!
Wow,
I step away from the world for a few days and look at all the good stuff I miss
It sounds like everyone is having the itch to do things "fast and furious" ... or is that rice and ridiculous?I've been spraying for about 5 years now and I've never once regretted it. I once saw a neat NOS (pronounced En-Oh-Ess) T-shirt that said "Only losers call it cheating." That statement could not be any more true. Yes, I got a lot of crap from people about running the bottle, but most all of this comes from people who are not spraying themselves and/or are slower than those who are spraying. Bottom line: N20 is quick, easy and inexpensive. Here is a break down of the vehicles I've had N20 experience with:
1987 Cavalier Z24 (2.8L) 16.1 @ 87 vs. 15.0 @ 93
1996 Impala SS (350 LT1) 14.9 @ 94 vs. 13.6 @ 101
1978 Malibu (383 sbc) 12.5 @ 110 vs. 11.4 @ 118
1974 260Z (350 sbc) 12.5 @ 110 vs. 11.3 @ 120
The big thing that eerked me about "that movie" is the idea that N20 will really help out at high speeds. I find the exact opposite. N20 greatly increases the torque while launching, but the upper R's don't seem to benefit as much. Of course, this is all with a 125 shot on my Datsun. I think this is why many people run dual stage kits. Not so much to get "more" out of the upper end... but because they simply don't need (or can't use) the extra power down low.
As for hiding the kit under the hood...
The carb setups are pretty limited with what you can do. I personally re-bent the original line that went to the plate and tried to hide the solenoids underneath the air cleaner a little better. I did a pretty good job on the rear N20 solenoid, but the front fuel solenoid is in plain view. Oh well, I took the "NOS" stickers off from my solenoids though... most people now don't have a clue what these funny looking brass solenoids are.
I like to tell people I have two fuel inlets because I run a "double pumper". It fools some of them.Check it out:Fourth row down, picture on the right.
-Andy
-
Brian,
Look into the fitting on your 4-speed and see if a cable for a GM automatic will fit. If so, you can have my old speed cable (minus S & H from Detroit). It's not very pretty, but still works very well with a Datsun speedometer and GM automatic trans. I have an Autometer speedo and I no longer need the custom cable, so the old cable can be all yours. Send me an e-mail if you are interested.
-Andy
-
...you guys gotta quite breaking your own reconds!
It seems I've been updating the "1/4 mile performance page" a lot lately. Yet another person that is one step closer to the 10's. Way to go Clint, incredible times!
-Andy
-
JP,
If you don't mind, I would like to add you to my list. Do you have a MPH for that time?
I love it when I hear all these Mustang and Import racers talk about how sub 2.0 sixty foot times are impossible without slicks. Nice "impossible" launch
-Andy
P.S. Scottie, I should have your's and Rick's new times up by the end of the day. Super swamped at work, 0% screw-off time this week.
-
This is a mystery that will most likely never be solved. My early 260Z (small bumpers, turn signals under bumper) has a production date of 9/74. I dont' think there was a date that the plant switched over from one to the other. I think the early 260's were more "phased out" rather than suddenly switching to the late models.
-Andy
[ June 26, 2001: Message edited by: Andrew Bayley ]
-
The 700R4 trans to looks for are those out of 87.5 and newer F-bodies. In the early 80's to 84, the 700's had a 27 spline input shaft. In 84 GM switched to a stronger 30 spline shaft, although the 27 spline can still withstand about 300 ft*lbs of torque. In 87.5, an auxillary valve body was added to improve shift quality. I also think that this auxially valve body allows the trans to be shifted into overdive at WOT.
One thing that kind of sucks, is that the driveshaft needs to be shortened an inch or two when swapping from a TH-350. On the plus side, the trans mount for the TH-350 will work fine with the 700R4, however it might need to be repositioned on the floor if the Z (no big deal, just drill two more holes). When looking around at bone yards for transmissions, try looking at (and smelling) the trans fluid out of the dip-stick. It should be red and not smell like burnt pop corn.
Good luck in your search
-Andy
-
It seems the 3.55 R200's do well getting out of the hole. Without overdrive, however, freeway driving is going to get hot and painful. I ran a 3.55 R200 with a TH-350 for two summers. Yes, I drove it on the freeway, but it would over heat after an hour and oil would be spewing out the valve covers. 70 mph, you will most likely be around 3500 - 3600 rpm. At 60 mph and slower, the TH-350 should be below 3000 rpm and perform nicely.
If you are going with an R200, I would look around for the 3.55 ratio. They came standard in most all 280Z's and some 280Zx's. Also, I don't think you will need to modify the drive shaft if your differential is not in the set forward position. I might be wrong, but I think by '72 Datsun was no longer putting the diff in the forward position. My initial guess is that your drive shaft will be fine with an R200.
However, if I am wrong and you decide to use an R180, look around for an early 240Z R180. Some of them came with 3.36 ratios. These would work slightly better than the 3.55 R200's. With a 3.36 gear, 70 mph should be around 3400 - 3500 rpm. An overdrive transmission should really be in the sights for long term planning here. They totally make the car live-a-ble again.
-Andy
-
Check out Mike Kz's installation of the cross bar. http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/mikekz4.html
I "borrowed" his idea for my S&W Roll Bar. It works OK, but I should have gone with more set back though. I only went with two inches of extra bar material (that's all I could find laying on the floor) while Mike has at least three. Regardless, at 6 foot 3, I can still drive my Z comfortably.
-Andy
-
Jim (larkja),
Here is a neat little article on a 2.9L dual SU Datsun motor that was built on a tight budget: Norm's 12-second 240Z.
I agree with most people that a V8 is the best way to go for outright "easy-to-obtain" horsepower. However, a N/A L-series swap would be the easiest to perform. A turbo L-series is also another option, but can easily become just as involved and pricey as a V8 swap. Ask yourself what you really want to acheive, how much work you want to do, and how quick you want it done. Personally, I wanted something that was very fast, fairly cheap, and could be done in a couple of months. Hence the reason I chose the V8.
-Andy
-
Excellent advice Ray,
Unfortunetly, these are all things I replaced over the winter. The gasket between the pump and the case had slipped out of place, so that's what I though the original problem was. Looks like there were (and still are) deeper issues.
Clint, thanks for that "wonderful" visualization. By converter is also bolted up to the oval holes... only mine actually started out round!
-Andy
)
getting the 3" exhaust today!!!
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
My old L28T with no muffler was border line. I never got pulled over, but I have a feeling I was above the legal (90 db, I think) limit. I eventually installed a Dynomax CVX (straight thru) 3" and it quieted things down too much, but still made more noise than the original Dynomax Super Turbo.
Gonna try to make it up there this Saturday(gotta pull the boat hoist out of the water). Would like to stop by and check it out.
-Andy