HuD 91gt
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Posts posted by HuD 91gt
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That's insane. Well done.
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There are P90a head's that do not have hydraulic lifters.
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I should say I didn't have the rad in at the time either. Not sure if that would have gotten in the way. No crank pulley either.
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I did mine on my 240z without removing anything. Wasn't as bad as I had read it can be.
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That was a brilliant writeup on camber plate installation. Looks great too!
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Did you do the grease trick, or just the way it is?
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I am almost ready to fire up my car using ignition only, and preparing the planning for the fuel side.
I'm contemplating using the stock CHT sensor in the head, vs the CLT in the thermostat housing. Since cylinder 5 is the hot cylinder, doesn't it make sense to get readings from here? Is the sensor (filled with grease) too slow to react to changes?
I am using MS to control my cooling fans.
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Well, after some research I disassembled the alternator, removed the AC wires, clocked the alternator over 90 degrees and put it all together.
On my '71 240 I purchased the msa converted for an internally regulated alternator. I attached the 12v constant yellow to S "sense" output. I then attached the switched 12v wire to F "field" prong.
I'm not getting any charge at all. The later 280z had a discharge light. Is this used as the exciter? I don't believe a 240z has this. Do I require a resistor?
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Pictures
EDIT: Further investigation shows that I purchased an alternator for a Cadi with a heated windshield. The 3 wires coming off the alternator are an AC output for the windshield. This version of alternator also has one extra prong.
Let's hope I can dissemble the casing, and reclock the ALT so the connection is on the other side and gives me a little more room.
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Alternator gurus please help.
Purchased this 1994 Cadillac Seville Alternator to do a conversion on my 240z.
The alternator looks almost identical to the one in this thread, but it has the connector on the side, with 3 individual connectors. This bunch of wires does not let the alternator twist in it's mount to adjust.
Does anyone know what these are? I tried removing the connector, but can't seem to open the alternator. Also the connector which which holds the sense wire has 4 wrongs, from this thread it seems the others have 2?
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When I was reading the manual, I thought you have to configure the MAF, with actual airflow numbers? I must have misread. Wouldn't be the first time. Maybe this was with unknown MAF sensors.
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Thanks Jacky. I guess I'll work with what is out there and test out that handy autotune function too. MAF isn't in the plans yet, but from what i've read you need a running car prior to programming for the MAF anyhow.
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For future reference when people searching the topic. These clips do indeed fit!
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Hello everyone. I'm looking for some tables to get started and compare for my L28 N/A build.
The few NA maps that are posted are quite old and unavailable. I've tried to get a hold of the original posters, but we will have to wait and see. Tony told me he got his going using a V8 Chevy map, so it may not be that critical for fueling, but something to look at would be nice.
My current build is as follow.
Flattop L28 w/ Ported P90 head (Compression 8.6:1)
Moderate Street cam (490 lift, 274duration)
LS Coils in wasted spark
Supra 440cc injectors
Here's a couple pictures of my progress thus far.
Coil Bracket
MS2 + Fuse/Relay Box on Custom under dash mount
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To make it simple.
All naturally aspirated Z's from 1970-1983 have a transmission that will easily swap into your Z with minimal effort. These range from 4 speed (240/260z) to the 5 spd in 280z/ZX.
The "quick ratio" transmissions that you read about are I believe from 1980-83.
NOW, the T5 transmission is completely different. This comes from 1982/83 ZX Turbos. To use this transmission if my memory serves correct you will require the T5 driveshaft as well. This will have to be shortened to fit into As earlier Z.
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^ They state $299 each. So correct me if i'm wrong, but with 2 required thats $598? Or is it just badly worded.
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I literally purchased these yesterday. I'm up in Canada, so sometimes it takes a while to ship. But send me a PM and i'll update you whether they fit or not (I read on a truck forum that they do indeed). They sure look like they would.
http://connectorsfast.net/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=66
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Search CLT megasquirt and your setting should pop up in search. I just found them an hour ago looking searching for "m10 x 1.5 CLT" on google.
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Thanks for the inout guys. lowrider, your the only one who I can reach who has real world experience. I was doing some searching on the BMW boards, and the 2.8L guys seem to like the 16-18cm housing, the the little 2.5L M20 guys tend go with the smaller housing from Turbo Toms or the like. I'll shoot him a message and see if they are even still available.
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Just a suggestion from someone who recently rebuilt their own engine. I scoured online for the cheapest prices. Amazon, rock auto, thezstore etc. I pieced together a great engine. I then found out some well known Datsun builders sell a very nice kit for a good price. Try Rebello and see if he will sell you something. Pistons, rods, bearings gaskets etc. Sounds like he sells these cheaper then what I could piece together, not to mention a tried and true setup and even included forged pistons and new rods.
If I were doing it again, I'd go that route. But I did learns lots! -
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I just picked up a nice little (Looks big to me) HX35w with a 18cm housing. Does anyone have any experience running this larger 18cm housing on a 2.8?
It also came with a 12cm housing, but the 18 has a very nice V band already welded (As well as being mounted to the turbo).Should I even bother with attempting the larger housing or should I swap out to the 12cm right away.
This is a street driven,1mm overbore L28. 8.6:1 compression. Hoping for about 350 rwhp eventually.
Picture is for entertainment purposes only.
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Just SU's is the rebuild bible. Get it. Thank Tony later.
I agree with him. I bet one nozzle is stuck down out of position. It's easier to find the nozzles when someone it operating the lever, and you can feel around for what is moving. -
Thanks for the pictures! Simple enough!
Compare your Dyno sheets HERE
in Nissan L6 Forum
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Tim, I believe you stated you have quite an aggressive cam in there as well, no? I want to say I remember some rambling about ~.500 lift and 290ish duration? I'm also surprised at the low end numbers. I guess that's a 3.0L for ya.