pallnet
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Posts posted by pallnet
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if anything goes wrong with that engine, the block is pretty much a loss. And then if you DO rebuild it, man you gotta go thru that whole process again?
I have not built a stroker yet. I have had all the parts to make it happen a few times just something gets in the way money wise. My feeling on that is if I had to rebuild a stroked motor. I would have them balance it all again. With knowing that balancing is the key to a good stroker. I wouldn't go short on a rebuild.
There are some ppl out there running the turbo stoker and doing well with it. I see no reason why it can't be done if you have the funds to do it right and the homework being done to back you up..
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early RX7's from a N/A motor are 460CC low ohms. 11mm O-ringed at the top and you will have to drill out the intake for the tips but, it's nothing major at all. you will do best with a custom rail for the O-ring type of injectors. i have heard of ppl clamping hose on them but, that's just not the way i work.. good luck.. pallnet
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Z22 pistons are out of what? is that the naps Z motor that is in the trucks and some 200sx's?
can a domestic piston be used? you can get forged piston sets for under 500 from summit for domestics.
mack is that changing the crank as well or running the stock crank? will there be a deck height issue to worry about?
best of all, is there a good site for all the questions i have? hahahahahhaha
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the webbing is bareble if you shave off all the nipples and unused fittings then powder coat, paint or just plain polish the crap out of that thing.
look at your intake closely. there are drain holes at the flange in the middle of each webbing. this is to drain off water but, if you have a leak, it will drain off also. the holes are right above the E manifold.
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yeah, those questions....
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This is one way i had test the LEXAN TB spacers. I gave a handfull of them out with the out to ppl i knew that raced and some that drove their cars hard on the street. I had about 4 of them floating around and there was the one on my car. They lived in different climates. This went on for right under a years time (11 months).. Nothing bad was said so after all the test I performed, the spacers surviving real world conditions and what I knew about LEXAN. I felt that it would be a safe product to run on our cars. Don't get me wrong, LEXAN can be damaged, just highly unlikely in the way it's being used as a TB spacer.
May be this could be one of your ways of testing. Nothing is being sold. It is a gift and the person assumes the risk of use. In return you will have their testamony as one of your proofs of reliability. 4 people to run them would be very good on your behalf. Different climates and conditions.
Oh yeah Juan. heat can come from bearing too..... pallnet
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I believe Juan has the tools and the know how to make the parts with an EXACT fit. The stress and HEAT these parts will have to take is where the problems lie. A lot of ppl do not put their car on only the track. We drive them on the street. You do NOT want a critical failure on the street. Track has less thinks to hit or I should say less ppl to hit. I have heard lots of things about Juans products. Some bad and some good. Samething about mine. You can't please everyone, it will not happen.
Juan just make a safe part. Do the R&D even if you have to send it out to a company that specializes in it. This is a serious issue. Make sure they take video and have a data log of all the test's they run.. Good luck.
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Most of the time the TPS plug is damaged or get's damaged some kind of way through the years. I often include a newer quick release type of connector with a bit of a pigtail on it in my TB kits. This solves two problems at once.
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Making structural parts of the car is another. The hub is the only thing between the suspension and the wheel, if it were to fail the wheel may fall off, and it could easily result in a serious injury or possibly even fatality of the occupants, and anyone the vehicle were to strike after losing control.
This is a very good point and one that NEEDs to be addressed. Thanks..
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Juan, your a wildman putting matches next to that thing. You're lucky to be here typing today.. You could have had a bad injector that could leak on you and blow in your face. Heres a bit of advice. Use rubbing alcohol in the purest form that you can get from off the shelf at wal-mart, it's 90%. It's cheap and you will not hurt yourself if something blows or breaks loose. Wear safety glasses but, i should have to tell you that one. hahahaha Well i should say the liquid will not hurt you.. Sharpnal don't count.....
If you need any pointers on testing some of your parts just let me know. I really enjoy trying to make parts fail. The testing is just as much fun as making the part.
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i'm going to a yard tomorrow that has 4-5 straight 6 maximas. i too have owned one of those heads but, didn't run it. i have heard nothing but good things about them. i know they will charge me like $100.00 for each head.
some say it's rape and some seem to think thats not bad. i should pull them all but, the wallet is too thin to get all of them at onetime and be able to eat regularly for a few weeks. hahahahaha..
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david please take the time to goto a yard and pull the two different injectors. remove the O-rings and compare the two. you will see..
sometimes my techniques may seem crude..
but, affective
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This brings us back to R&D.
This pic makes no sense...the bottom of the injector is not the major part to be concerned about. It’s the top where the fuel can leak out allover your engine and cause a fire that can completely ruin your custom or classic ride. Sure that setup will hold but, does it look nice? Is it overkill?
I hate how this is always turning to a comparison. Some like yours some like mine.This is in no way to compare my rail to yours. It can't be done! I have put many LONG hours into trying to make my parts fail in every way I have seen others fail in the automotive industry. Remember, I have to tell people why a part failed as part of my job. Another part of my job is some field engineering to an extent.
I have made the o ring bores to the same exact size as the OEM eclipse rails using CNC precision machinery. Someone putting in rx7 injectors I do not recommend. Again I dont know where the rx7 is coming from.Can I get a show of hands?? There are MANY people running or about to run RX7 injectors with SDS, haltech and others... this also brings us right back to R&D.............
Like I have said to others and I’m not going to change what I say... " I like how your products look except for a few things"
This in no way means that I condone your parts. Cause to be honest with you, if they fail then they are useless.... the same would go for mine.
I did not draw attention to this pic cause of sealing issues. This is just a hole that is too deep. This is poor workmanship. I’m not perfect and I know this but I saw that one right out the box. In the beginning stages of my rail design.
I will not tell you how to make your parts. That is your job. This is like I said before, concerns...
This is not an attack on you Juan. It’s not. This is just presenting the facts about these O-ring rails. I have done my homework on O-ring rails long before you were making Z parts and selling them online... this is a fact. To be honest with you. The first rail I made was for 14mm O-ring injectors. Long before I thought of making rails for others. It used 1989 jaguar xj6 injectors.
I know my parts may not be "eye candy" to some people but they work. My brackets hold as stated... my rails do not leak when properly installed.
I brought this on cause of constantly seeing that people feel my O-ringed rail will leak cause, the brackets do not go over the top of the rail.
I completely put aside the issue of my lexan spacers. Although, I was going to put all that on here and Zcar a while back after seeing one of your auctions and it saying something about your aluminum spacers being better then plastic. If lexan was to fail in the conditions our cars would put them through, it would not be used as windows of jet liners. Just an example...
One would think that you having access to all these tools and making parts for the performance Z market. This would not have come up as an issue.
DatsunBoy77
The bracket to the left is obviously not for mounting the rail and neither is the one on the right. Pretty much anyone can tell that. The one right next to the bung is the one. The "L" shaped bracket is made that way cause it's not thick. They made it from thin stock.
Believe me. If I could get away with having my camera in the yards. I could flood this board with pics of rail mounting that looks very much like mine.
Something i forgot to add in the beginning of all this.
I don't want some people to get the wrong idea about all this.
This is not about money or parts sales. I make what ppl ask for and no more. This is one of my hobbies, not a major income..
I can never have enough money and that is the rule i live by but, my chacks from work are just the right size for me to live comfy.. If you know what i mean..
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The seal in the pic that follows is not intended for being crushed..
Look at ANY car that uses this style of injector, it is not crushed.
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This thread is in relation to:
http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=420855&t=420855
Does everyone know what I do for a living?? I am a certified Jaguar and ASE tech. Doe’s this mean what I say can be carved in stone? No! But, this tells you that I’m not just a babbling idiot that can type.
These are a few questions for JSK with my concerns.
Did you sell O-ringed rails to customers without hardware to mount them?
Is that really what it will look like after?
Is it a better way to make mounting brackets the way you did, as far as function?
It looks like it will function with no real problems except a few. One minor and the other could be major. “Looks†as well as “how well a part works†is always considered in every sale of any custom part. IMO the mounting hardware is not appealing in any way shape or form.
Honestly, you should do more R&D. Your O-ring rail is based off of the DSM injectors and as stated by you. This would be fine if everyone used only DSM injectors. There is a difference in DSMs and other 11mm O-ring type injectors and this can’t be made up as a later fix like a band-aid.
Are you going to speedy sleeve your injector ports to make them seal up against other 11mm O-ring injectors, other then the DSMs?
This could be a VERY serious problem.
We’re talking about fuel sitting over an intake manifold that is sitting over an exhaust manifold. Many guys like the RX7 injectors cause they are 460cc N/A, low ohms and are very easy to find.
Will your rail support normal running pressures with these smaller O-ringed injectors inside holes milled for the DSMs?
Better yet, fuel pumps can build pressure sometimes double normal running pressure (32psi) if the pump is still running while the return is capped off.
Will your rail support these injectors at say, 100psi??
All new parts that I sell are put through tests to try to make them fail under unreal conditions. That way I know for sure that they will holdup to everyday usage. After seeing what was said on hybridz in the thread about your brake kits, I feel that you do not do this. Although for the most part, I do like the looks of the parts you produce. This does not mean they work properly or as stated.
There seems to be some doubts about my mounting brackets for the pallnet O-ring rail.
In the pics below you will see a pic of a Jaguar rail that was in production from 1988-1997. My rail is based on the same principles of this rail, as far as mounting. The Jaguar rail is made of steel for ease of production reasons. The way my brackets are made, failure is highly unlikely. Either the mounting bolts would have to strip out more then ¼†of 6mm tapped thread from the rail. Bend the rail mounting brackets (not enough leverage). Or rip out roughly ½†of tapped 8mm thread from the intake mounting points.
My rail mounted on a intake manifold.
If this is not enough for some of you, feel free to take the link below copy this vid to your computer and watch.
I forgot to mention that before i ran this test, i abused the rail mounting by holding the setup by the rail and shakeing it around like a ragdoll very insane like to try to make it come loose in any way shape or form.
I also left the rail under the max pressure in the vid for more then a half hour.
Vid link below. sorry, you will have to copy and paste to get to the vid.
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Nathan
i have SS hose on my engine and setup just like you explained.
my new motor will be setup the same if not more SS hose throughout the car. sumping the tank, SDS and a few other goodies are on the program.
ooh yeah. my first rail i made was for ford big O-ring injectors so, i have the tools and the know how to make those as well.
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just made a O-ring style fuel rail that i will be putting on ebay. it came out SWEET to say the least.. here are pics of the prototype and the one for sale. the prototype in mounted on the intake. the one for sale has the gauge in it. i figured i would make these now cause, everyone is changing over to import O-ring style injectors.
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they are not plastic. they are aluminum, i painted them red to match my engine colors. 75-76 maybe 77 Z's had them.
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i don't remember what one i bought. i wanna say it was for a civic or something like that. does not really matter anyways. i had to heat it up and cut to get it to fit.
i charge $125.00 for a barbed rail with a guality liquid filled gauge on it.
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i make and sell them as well. i don't sell on a large volume cause, i do them in my spare time.
link to my pics below.
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i have them on the front of my car. i had first put them on all 4 corners but, the rear was too low so, i put the old upper mounts back on. with my car being as low as it is, i still need a little more adjustment. i have only one complaint but, this will be the same with other camber adjustments. it's hard to make adjustments on the alighnment rack unless you lift the car. adjust, lower the car. check the camber and caster again to see where your at. sometimes, you have to do this like a handfull of times to get it as close to being right as you can. the product is good and lowers the car like .5"-1" from the mount alone..
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yeah, it was a N/A. the rear mount is brand new. as a matter of fact, i'm putting the mount on ebay.. i have no use for it. so, that tells me that they opped for the LSD when they found one.. wwhhoo hhoooo i have another LSD!!!!..
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ok, i did a few checks on it and YES!! it is a clutch LSD. i put a wrench on each stub shaft to bind them. the clutch locked right away. no play what so ever.. both shafts lock right away. there is no metal on the drain plug magnet. looks like this might be a keeper. i regret selling the other one.
as much as i wanted to keep it. i needed some quick cash.
24 Valve DOHC head almost done!
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
The casting is not finished being milled. It is a beautiful pce of work. The chain hole looks to be too small for a double row chain as well, all in the milling that needs to be done. Great find..