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pallnet

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Posts posted by pallnet

  1. i ran a search and found a few pics. there was one that i'm looking for that has both side by side basicly and that is the one i can't find.

     

     

    i have a question though.. did the 300ZX open diffs have a carrier that looked like the clutch type?? i have seen the open ones and i have had 2 LSD clutch types and i know the carrier is squareish looking without the big hole to see the spider gears.

    i found a diff in a yard today in a 88 ZX not turbo. it has the finned cover and that made me pull the diff out the car. i opened it in the yard to be sure and it looks like a clutch LSD. only thing is in the yard when i turned the drive shaft both wheels turned, when i turned one wheel both turned

    (in the same direction) now, i have the cover off and stabbed in a couple of stubs in it at the house. one turns one way and the other turns the other way. it has no fluid in it at this time. will i need to create some binding on one side to make the clutches engage?? i'm going outside to take a pic of the inside of this thing to be sure. it really looks like the real thing. if so, it just goes to show ya that you can get a LSD out of a N/A. us Z nuts are swapping them into our cars fellas.. i try to look at all Z's for things like this.. be back in about a hour or so with a pic or two.. thanks pallnet

  2. can not be plugged. look to the race cars for this one fellas. they use a breather tank and have the crankcase breather and the valve cover breathers run to the tank located on the fender well of firewall. call summit or jegs. they can help.. pallnet

  3. i have a set of them in the garage. i'm missing a few of the studs. i have to make them, no biggy. they are thin and one of your stock studs needs to be pressed out and a longer one needs to be pressed in in each hub.this stud goes through the adapter and the wheel to be secured by both a small lug nut under the wheel and the wheel lug nut in the wheel. i hope i explained this right. kinda hard to do so without seeing what i'm talking about. they appear to be very strong and i like the idea of one stud going completely through both the adapter and the wheel with 2 lugs securing that stud.

  4. make sure the TPS is adjusted properly as per the manual. i know i remove the TPS for cleaning when i put them on ebay or sell to ppl. and if you were to buy one of mine, you will have to reset the TPS when you install it on the car. some ppl use the flap adjustment screw to set the base idle and some use the aidle adjustment on the side of the intake of the ZX's. that is why i don't even bother setting it. most ppl who do the conversion will have to reset it anyways. see if that works for you.. good luck.. pallnet

  5. i know the car very well. a handfull of my tools have graced that engine bay. i installed a flow tested and cleand set of injectors from my private stock, on that car when gabe came over before you bought it. very clean car with no problems (after he left my garage) i even went over to his house and installed a headgasket and manafold studs. again, from my private stock. that car took second to only his wife and little girl. it's really hard to see that you are having these kinds of problems with such a well cared for car. i hope you get these things worked out cause that car does not belong parked for any reason. good luck.. pallnet

  6. i have a few. i had to make brackets in the corners of the window frame. good thing is, i can change up my mirrors if i want different flush mount mirrors for different moods.. hahaha jokeing but, it could happen.. well, the brackets make it easy.

     

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    Picture-127.jpg?dc=4675422072537964162

     

    i know the body does not look the greatest right now. i'm getting everything mounted and all my holes drilled before i do the body work.

  7. not P79, it was N47 but different then the one on the 77-80Z's. i have not pulled one for myself. i seen to be pulling other part at the yard and not getting the time to pull one of these to see everything first hand. those are things that i know.. now things that i have heard... it has the good chambers. mate it with a flat top block and you get high compression but, managable. i heard this once that, the head is square port. i will know for sure oneday soon.

  8. there is a guy in texas that's running this setup with a N42 head. he said that his compression is somehwere around 13 to 1. he said he has to run raceing fuel all the time. the car will not run off of pump gas. the name he goes under on Zcar.com is slingshot. sorry, i don't have a link to his site. i lost it with my other comp going south. personaly, i would think about the P90 and maybe shane it a little. good luck.. pallnet

  9. well, i got the harness and all but the O2 sensor. it looks like i will be busy for a little while. tomorrow i will be going to the speed shop to get a bong to weld to my header for the O2. if i have time i will goto a few yards to see if i can find a O2 or a few as spares. looks like this harness has had the recall done to it. the injectors were the recall type.

    does anyone have info on what all was done in those recalls and how to put it all back the way it was. i have injectors from another car that didn't have the recall done to it. the car i pulled the stuff from was an automatic.

    i will not be useing the stock ingnition, i will be useing my MSD. will the fact of the parts beign from a automatic have any affect on the way it performs? thanks.. pallnet

  10. i also have the "MEXICAN JUMPING TACH" i have found the problem and i think i will just replace it and be done. the tach signal is a push on wire that goes on the back of the tach, it gets a little corroded or loose with time. i can pinch it and it will work fine then if i just twist the connection it starts jummping around like a cat on a hot tin roof. i bought a new tach today and it will be going in in a day or so. i'm running MSD and have been drawing the signal from it to run my stock tach. i changed the connector and it worked great for a while. good luck.. pallnet

  11. i have MSD6al on my car right now and would like to keep it. does the FI need anything for the ignition side of the EFI? if not, i can just run the MSD off the signal produced from the inner ring of the relucter wheel, right?

    i'm sure that it will workout just fine, i like to cover all the bases before i get into a project.

    are you running the 300 harness also?, sleeperZ?

    thanks.. pallnet

  12. this is what i have going on. right now, i have collected almost everything i think i will need. tomorrow i get the rest......

    i'm running a high compression motor in my 76 Z with SU's. i want to dump the SU's and install FI but, not the 280Z FI. i have a whole 1983 ZXT

    and i have access to a whole 1987 ZX. i have plans of pulling the 87 ZX's engine harness and sensors tomorrow morning. i already have the ECU and MAF. i already have all the hardware to do the swap. i'm just a little foggy on what wires needed to make hooking up to my car and stuff like that. my friend is bringing the 1983 ZXT wire diagram to my house tomorrow but, that still leaves me not knowing what's going on with the 300ZX wireing. i'm not sure if it's a better idea to use the 280ZXT harness and the 300 ECU and MAF or use the 300ZX harness, ECU and MAF. either way it goes, i would like to run this thing cause of the benefits of the ECU and MAF. my engine pulls like a mule on drugs and it gives out at high RPM's cause of the SU's..i'm on vacation this week and this will probably be a good project for me, thanks in advance. pallnet

     

    http://groups.msn.com/monkeysphotos/shoebox.msnw

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