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Roostmonkey

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Posts posted by Roostmonkey

  1. Again, the fumes are only one issue with choosing galvanized and its an easyly avoided problem.I'd be more concerned with paint/undercoatings not sticking to it. The heat zone from welding will take paint or a cold galvanizing compound but the rest wont.Typically you can scratch off paint with your fingernail.There may be a product out there that is specifically designed for galv but I'm not aware of it.

  2. I shaved most the openings off the top of this manifold and tig welded it up.ThenI drilled/tapped some of the mounting holes on the side of the manifold for vacuum ports/boost guage ect... This keeps the top clean and uncluttered. Then it was powdercoated with a hammered siver finish. If you dont have a nice clean nonporous weld, youll get some outgassing during the PC and will leave blemishes in the paint.Zstuff001.jpg

     

    Zstuff003.jpg

  3. RB26dett004.jpg

     

    This is whats replacing the L28. The plan is to build this badboy to 500 whp. I'll stiffen the chassis with a version of Petes design along with my own.Today I stripped off all the AAC plumbing and it cleaned t

    hings up alot.Its so nice working on an engine that all the nuts and bolts will come off with your fingers after they've been loosend abit.Well, gotta get back to it, theres so much I still need to remove for inspection or replacement.Also all the fluff that will go off to the powdercoater.

  4. I gotta say Austin, you've got one of the best looking turbo engine bays out there. I thought mine looked pretty good until I walked over and saw yours at ZDAYZ last year. Very tasteful and all business.Hope to see it again this year.Its given me some ideas on setting up my RB swap.

  5. there really isnt any one saw that fits all your needs. Handheld plasma's great until you get multiple layers that have space between them such as a tube that has no access to the backside.Can you say sawzall? Chopsaws great for ruffing it, coldsaws are precise but slow.horizontal bandsaws are pretty slick, verticles are good for scroll cutting,CNC plasma,laser or waterjet do what they do very well but for all around homeowner type work the horiz bandsaw or sawzall fits the bill. If your in the business, you need em all.

  6. I read about this a while back and I didnt think there was a definative answer to this issue. Can I get rid of all that plumbing and valves under the intake? I will be using a standalone and would think that I could program around it not being there.Maby I can lose SOME of it? ( this is on an rb26dett)thanks

  7. I HOPE its not too good to be true too.After getting to know the kid ( looks to be mid 20's) that I got the motor from, I dont believe that he'd tuckit to me but who knows about the importer that HE got it from. He was going to do a 240sx swap but before he started it, he found a beautiful Skyline and bought it. After driving the Skyline for a while he decided to drop the 240sx project and the motor just set for a year. I couldnt understand where all his money was coming from and why , financially, he hadnt tried to sell the motor/tranny.Turns out he won a large settlement and money is no object right now.He and I have just kind of hit it off and he's almost as excited to see my ca r with the RB as I am.Also, I agreed to give everything back that I wont be using, front wheel drive assy,P/S pump,smog ect...We'll see soon enough if it's too good to be true.

  8. No it came with the wrong sump, but ive ordered the right one along with the pickup and gasket from Shea at NISMO for $ 188.xx delivered to MA.So it appears that I got a pretty good deal , paying $3500.00 for an R33 Rb26DETT and tranny.The guy I bought it from said he paid $5500 from some importer in Canada.

  9. I want to mod some stock turbo's and was hoping that someone had some firsthand experience with a shop that they'd use again. I want to replace the stock ceramic turbine wheels for some steel/inconel units.Ive only dealt with one shop and I wont go back to them again.Thanks guys.

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