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nickgarthright

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Posts posted by nickgarthright

  1. What consult connector are you using? Have you verified that the actual consult USB device works correctly? Driver installed?

    Its the nissan obd1 plug and I'm borrowing my friends obd1 to usb plug that he used to tune his rb25 so I know that works.

  2. Hey guys, I've got an rb26dett in my z car and for some reason the consult plug doesn't work. I've checked the wiring about 1000 times and its correctly wired per the ecu pin-out diagrams and from what other members say it should be wired. It has 12v power, ground is grounded, the Rx has about 10v, Tx about 10v, and clk 0V. So the weird thing there is that Tx is supposed to have 0V. The other voltages are correct besides the Tx; I checked the wire and it's wired to the Tx pin on the ecu. I'm lost here and have no clue what my next step should be.

  3. The re-circulation valve connection should be connected to the low pressure inlet into the compressor

     

    The cam breathers are usually just connected across to equalize the pressure in both sides. People usually use these to setup their oil catch cans.

    What's the compressor? And also for the breathers, where do they go to stockwise?

    Thank you!

  4. To do it properly you will need two filters. Consider the diagram here : http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/power_planner_EFIsystems.pdf

     

    There you have a 100 micron filter before the pump and a 10 micron after the pump. Be careful when you use rubber hoses. They need to be rated for use with at least 60 psi fuel.

     

    I ended up redoing my complete fuel system with AN fittings and PushLok hoses.

     

    The stock RB fuel rail has a vacuum operated regulator on the end. I opted for an adjustable one from aeromotive, I am also not running the stock rail or injectors thou.

     

    Good luck

    Thank you so much!

  5. I'm planning on getting the walbro GSL-392 for my 78 280z. None of the original fuel lining is there, but instead there is a rubber line that goes to a hardline. Do I have to buy a filter. And also do I have to get a fuel pressure regulator or is there one on the RB?

     

    Thank you!

  6. I can get a retest. When I originally got the car and it failed I did the things that I said I did. By the time I had done that I decided that I could just have a mechanic do it. I took it to a mechanic who said that he had worked on them before. When I got it back from him it had the readings that I posted which are the "stock settings" from what he said. I feel like it was a waste of money though because from the things I had done, only the HO at idle didn't pass. How can I adjust everything back to the original if I don't know exactly what he did? I can check the timing but besides that I have no clue how to determine anything else.

  7. How close are you?  Post some numbers.  Details on what's being tested also.  I live in Oregon and they only test idle.  How many retests do you get?  I can roll through the DEQ line every hour for free if I want, until I get things right and pass.

     

    A lean miss will put you over, as will a too-rich mixture.  Most old 280Z's run lean, and can benefit from a little extra resistance on the coolant temperature circuit.

     

    You said it doesn't have a catalytic converter.  Is it supposed to?  Usually that's an immediate visual fail.

     

    Your post is generally vague.  Add details.

     

     

    If you are not even close to passing I would start by looking at the water temperature sensor(located on the thermostat housing) and also the TPS(throttle position switch)

     

    If the water temp switch is bad or there is a bad connection it will cause the car to run extremely rich

     

    Proper adjustment of the TPS(located on the throttle body) is also vital. If miss adjusted it can cause many drivability issues. One cause of miss adjustment in particular is it can cause the ECU to think the car is at full throttle when the car is actually just under light cruise. This again will cause the car to run extremely rich giving very high emission when being smog tested!!

     

    Download the FSM for the year of your car here  http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

     

    This will go over in detail how to check the two items I have described. Read it patiently. Check back with us after if either of these resolve the issue.

     

    let us know what you number were on the test as newzed said. 

     

     

    Make sure the fuel pressure is good. Fuel pressure regulator is good, No fuel in the vacuum hose to the regulator. Also does it still have the o2 sensor, make sure its good.

     

    He should only get one more restest then he has to show he spent a certain amount of money for a waiver.

     

    Option that may be cheaper is to get collector car insurance on your car. And have your insurance company send you a letter stating that you have collector car insurance. Go down to the DMV and get your 5 year sticker for your license tag. No more emissions testing in AZ if you have collector car insurance. Get a policy that lets you drive the car about 2,500 miles a year.

     

    I have that on my Z.

     

    Thank you all for replying so quickly!  The numbers from the tests are in my glovebox so I'll post them tomorrow! I'm pretty sure that there is nothing wrong with the tps sensor as I already replaced that and the engine pulls hard. I'll check that link out to determine if the water sensor is bad. As for the fuel pressure regulator; how do I check that? Also I've thought of the classic insurance for it but one of the requirements is that you have to have been driving for ten years or something and also I would definitely be driving more than 2500 miles since I live in Queen Creek and daily commute to Gilbert!

  8. Hi, I have a 1978 280z that is no where near close to passing emissions. I've retarded the timing, messed with the afm, changed spark plugs, adjusted the air bypass, and a couple of other things. What is really killing it is the hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel). The car is missing the egr equipment and doesn't have a cat. But even without those the readings make it look like a cylinder isn't firing (they all are). I need some help with getting it to pass as I can't stand not being able to drive it. Well at least drive it legally! At worst please point me to a good mechanic. I live in Gilbert AZ.

     

    Thank You!

  9. Hello, I have a 1978 280z that I was planning on doing an RB20det swap in. Can you use the original 280z fuel pump because it's fuel injection? I'm trying to keep the cost down so I can spend money in other areas of the car just in case you were wondering why I'm asking this.

     

    Thanks!

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