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joela

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Everything posted by joela

  1. Ok, we will give all of those a try, including bumping base timing up to around 23 at idle. We were going for ultra-conservative on the timing to start so as to avoid any detonation, but maybe we're causing ourselves some trouble in the timing table as well. Thank you for help, and any additional observations are greatly appreciated!
  2. It's up in post #10 combined with the datalog in the zipfile. Thanks for looking -- we need all of the help we can get on this one...
  3. I don't think that we set up the overboost limit, so I assumed that 0 disabled that function as in many other places in megatune. Do you think that this might be the root cause -- spark being cut right out of the gate and fuel being dumped into the exhaust, then ignited once the spark resumes?
  4. I have attached it with the datalog in a zipfile in post #10 of this thread. I have all of the files from Jacob's config on my laptop, so let me know if there is anything else that might be of use.
  5. Yeah, he's jumping off the throttle as soon as the stumble happens to avoid the big KA-BOOM. Probably wise, as that just can't be good for the turbocharger...
  6. slown280z -- I helped Jacob reprogram his LC-1 prior to this run (and log), which was required as one of the analog inputs (the one feeding megasquirt) had been set as a narrowband output. All is good there now, and it is logging nicely to the file. After the change the cockpit gauge agrees with what the megasquirt is reporting now. Thanks!
  7. Attached are the datalog and .msq files Jacob used tonight. The O2 sensor is an Innovate LC-1. Thanks for whatever assistance you can provide him. [EDIT] Ended up with a zero-length .msq in the previous zipfile. It is corrected here. datalog200904272016.zip
  8. Did you guys totally start over? This looks like a new rebuild, not a refresh. Great work!
  9. Hello everyone, Looking for a new one. Good condition with no bends, kinks, nicks, etc please. Thanks!
  10. $1.44 in Nebraska as of 12/17/2008. Of course, it takes 5 hours to fuel a zcar due to the 90 below zero weather and polar bears attacking you while you shovel the "gas-gel" into the fuel tank...
  11. 1973 240Z L24, 16x8" SSR 513s, R180, 4 spd, My Fat Ass, otherwise stock: 2350lbs
  12. Yikes! Another zcar dead at the hand of the torch. Wouldn't a tube frame and fiberglass have served better? ...I wonder how much you can pick up one of those awesome flared out 240z sorta-scarab clones with super-cool custom brown/yellow/tan striped paint and wings that were so popular in the '70s for these days -- oh wait, they've all been crushed... Whoops, sorry... *stodgy old guy*...
  13. Hmm, I wouldn't go driving to California (or a racetrack) on that critter... Maybe think about AAA until you check the bottom. I'd pop it apart for sanity's sake, and finding parts for these isn't cheap if it goes wrong. Then again it might be my OCD kicking in too... j
  14. Here in Nebraska, with one 18 year old driver and two adults, my two 240z's tally up to $42 US per month with ACV coverage. Now, if you can all just stand the really awesome weather here...
  15. Hello all! A cautionary tale: We paid $450 for an L28ET "complete" about 6 months ago from a salvage dealer in the southeast. I probably wouldn't have paid that much, but the guy seemed pretty straight-up and was consistent over several conversations about how great the assembly was, 78K original (personally verified by him at time of part-out, or so he said), and how it had been stored indoors for "years" (15+?). In fact, he personally vouched for the engine's ability to "plug-and-play". When we received the engine, it looked fantastic externally, and we proceeded to do a cleanup and light exterior bead blast with the intention of a quick inspection, bottom-end bearing refit, and drop-in. During this process we quickly discovered a fantastic amount of endplay in the crank, and upon pulling the crank found a completely trashed wristpin and piston. I don't need to go any further into the woes of finding new (quality) pistons, cranks, and periphinalia for these units these days at a reasonable cost on a one-off basis. Hence, this project has become much more involved than initially projected. Lesson learned: junk guys are always (still) full of crap (excepting only, of course, those few zcar specialists remaining; this was not one of them), and you should buy short and push at every opportunity. They just don't look at the stuff like they did even ten years ago, and they will lie like dogs to get a deal done (well, now that I think about it, I guess that part isn't really anything new...). Your mileage may vary. Just some words to the wise. Joel
  16. ... also, the T3 has a removable flange that i think jacob80 is missing -- I have the same problem: where does one source this???
  17. Has that engine with the hose run more than 10000 miles, or at all? I think he needs a solution for a road car, not a drag car. Methinks the hose is a weak link.
  18. Isn't the stock piece metal down to the pan? I think a hose is going to get fried. How have other folks dealt with this? I'm interested because my L28ET is missing the same piece.
  19. So... if it IS the door latch, what's the offending mechanism, and what should one look for to fix? Mine rattles about a bit also, so this is useful!
  20. Hey guys, about to purchase some supra 7mgte 440cc o ring injectors off ebay. We plan on using the Pallnet fuel rail, and everyone says they're straight bolt on from there, but my question is, how are the injectors secured to the fuel rail and manifold?
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